Pet Friendly Vacation Rentals and Holiday Homes

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By: Milan Matchev

Pets are an integral part of ones family, especially for all pet lovers. So, when a family goes on vacation it is considered that the pet goes along. All vacation planning thus includes the pets and pet friendly vacations and travel planning make more sense. According to statistics, 60 million households in the USA are proud pet owners. About 15 million or 25% of these pet owners travel on vacations with their pets and stay in pet friendly lodgings. For the convenience of these pet owners pet friendly hotels, vacation home rentals and condos are available across many locations. The following are a few tips to keep in mind while traveling with a pet.

1. While making your vacation rental or hotel reservations, make sure you double-check that pets are permitted. Make sure that you get the “pets allowed” receipt for your reservation either online or through normal mail channels. Verbal assurances cannot be relied upon.

2. The next step is to get your pet acquainted with traveling. One can achieve this by using the car. Get the pet into the car and make sure you play with it to make it relax. After a while, take it for a short drive. Increase the length of the drives bit by bit, so that the pet gets used to long drives that you may take on most vacations.

3. Keeping the safety factor foremost in mind, make sure you get your pet to get used to being secured inside the car. Securing harness can be bought from the local pet stores.

4. Make sure you pet is properly tagged with the identification containing the pet’s name, owners name and the phone number, preferably your vacation rental’s or cell phone number. This will ensure that the pet is returned to you easily in case it wanders off in new surroundings. Make sure you have a photograph of your pet handy, so that in case of a loss, enquiries are easier.

5. Always check with your vet before the vacation, if any vaccinations are needed to suit the environment of your destination. If your pet is a dog, make sure you carry the up-to-date rabies tag on its collar. It could be required in many places.

6. Upon arrival at the pet friendly vacation rental always inform the check-in person or staff that you have a pet along with you. Make sure you understand and follow the rules of the place regarding pet restricted areas in the vacation rentals.

7. Never let the pet use the furniture in the pet friendly vacation rental for sitting or sleeping unless covered with your own sheet. Use the bathroom for placing water and food containers over an old newspaper to facilitate cleaning up.

8. Avoid leaving the pet unattended in a pet friendly vacation rental. If you have to do so, please inform the clerk or the rental agent of the same. Make sure you pet is secured while doing so lest it may surprise or hurt the vacation rental staff.

Traveling and vacationing with pets can be fun, if you use a little commonsense and care while doing so.


Pet Friendly Vacation Rental - Holiday Homes and Vacation Rentals where you can thake your dog or cat with you - leader in luxury vacation rentals worldwide, with an extensive portfolio of luxury villas and homes. To place a Pet friendly holiday home free advertisement or find the perfect lodging for you - visit pet-friendly-vacationrentals.com

Miniature Horse Tack

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By Richard Romando

Miniature horses are one of the fastest-growing equine breeds in the world today. These elegant and cute horses, no taller than 38 inches (from the withers to the last hairs), are attracting a lot of attention. They can be bred like regular horses and even ridden.

Miniature horses require tack similar to a regular horse. It includes bits, carts and wagons, harnesses, saddles, bridles, reins, halters, girths or cinches, martingales and other accessories, but in smaller sizes than for normal horses. Most miniature horse tack equipment is made of fine leather for strength and durability. Some accessories such as curb straps and stirrup hobbles are also available in different colors, such as natural, light, dark, black, and burgundy.

Prices of miniature horse tack differ based on the material, size and model. A floral-embossed saddle with 8-inch suede seat may be priced at around $125, while a blanket and a girth may cost around $14 and $7, respectively. A miniature Western saddle with or without tooling and an 8-inch suede seat is priced at approximately $200. A bridle may cost around $25 and a miniature Eggbutt bit may be priced at around $20, while a 3.5-inch stainless steel Eggbutt snafflebit may cost around $30. A leather halter may cost $12, while a nylon halter may be priced at around $8. An entire English tack set comprising of saddle, bridle and pad is also available for just $200. Some manufacturers are also offering custom-made miniature horse tacks as per the exact size of the horse.

There are also some stores that offer miniature horse tack on discount. Prices would be slashed as much as 20-30%. Miniature horse tack accessories can also be bought over the Internet. There are several sites that have exclusive products featured for miniature horses. Products can be compared and even ordered online.

Horse Tack provides detailed information on Horse Tack, Discount Horse Tack, Horse Tack for Sale, Miniature Horse Tack and more. Horse Tack is affiliated with Cartoon Penguins.

Survey: Canines Are Kings of the Castle

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(NewsUSA)- Ever wonder what your dog does while you're away? A new survey shows that most dogs are enjoying the comforts of home: Nearly 70 percent of dog owners say their dogs spend at least half their time hanging around indoors.

When asked what their dogs do all day, 66 percent of American dog owners thought their dogs lounged the day away, while only 9 percent imagined their pets romping with toys.

Many dogs have a lot of freedom in the home, according to the survey, which was conducted by Ipsos Public Affairs on behalf of Purina Little Bites Indoor Complete brand. Thirty-six percent of dog owners allow their dogs into every room in the house, as long as they follow special rules, while 28 percent of dog owners offer their pups free reign over the entire house.

The majority of dog owners surveyed said their pets spend most of the day sleeping, so diet is a special consideration for these dogs, who might not expend the same amount of energy as their outdoor counterparts.

Inside dogs can benefit from a high-protein food, such as Purina Little Bites Indoor Complete, which is specially formulated for indoor dogs to help maintain lean muscle mass and ideal body condition. Vitamin E and minerals also help keep the skin and coat healthy, as indoor dogs can be prone to dry skin.

What about home decor? How much does Fido influence your decorating? The survey showed that 31 percent of all dog owners decorate with their dogs in mind. Generations X and Y are at the forefront of this trend; 41 percent of dog owners between the ages of 18 and 34 have dog-friendly decor.

Perhaps it's the practicality that appeals. After all, if your pooch is home all day, it's wise to invest in a little stain-resistant flooring or scratch-proof furnishings. If money were no object, 63 percent of dog owners surveyed would buy furniture that resists shedding, stains and tears. And 75 percent would buy their pampered pups all new furniture of their very own.

For more information on the survey and nutrition for dogs, visit www.longliveyourdog.com .

The Basics Of Parrot Adoption

By Lee Dobbins
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Parrots are just about one of the most charming species of animals on the planet. You can actually talk to them. Who cares if they are programmed to speak certain words? At least it is much more amusing to spend time watching TV alone at home with a cheery and chirping voice to startle you out of your boredom from time to time. Parrots are really unique, and so are the mechanisms of caring and adopting them as your own.

Parrot adoption is one of the popular hobbies of the rich and famous. But you don’t really have to be filthy rich to be able to decently care for one. Not one too many a Hollywood film has depicted the presence of these charming parrots under the tutelage of famous stars and added to the visual appeal of the movies. However, there is more to parrot rearing than the stuff we see those actors do on screen. For all we know, they don’t even know how to care for parrots the moment the camera stops rolling!

There are already some organizations which capitalize on the endeavor of parrot adoption. Not every Joe and Jane is qualified to adopt a parrot. These organizations all have standards, depending on the breed of the parrot to be cared for and the policies which govern their mission and vision statement.

Some training will be required for one to become eligible for parrot adoption. Parrots are unique, as I have said earlier, and they require a special level of care and attention. They have different behavioral patterns in addition to the basics of caring for birds, in general. Not knowing about these behavioral patterns is a no-no for every soon-to-be parrot guardian. To know as much as possible about the parrot to be adopted is by far one of the things the parrot adoption organizations never fail to emphasize to every budding owner.

Caring for a parrot can even be more of a collaborative effort. The parrot adoption organization will not allow you to adopt their parrots if they don’t find your residence conducive enough for the parrot. For example, a certain person in your house may not necessarily share your passion for parrots and be potentially harmful to the parrot if ever it gets deployed in your home. The organization not only screens the potential owner’s capability to take care and train on basic concepts in caring for parrots, but also the overall environment from which the parrot will be made to grow.

Prices for adoption vary according to size and in line with this, every parrot owner wannabe must be ready for the extra budget that caring for a parrot will require. The parrot adoption organizations available in the country often make use of contracts to secure the safety of the parrot. These may include mandatory regular veterinarian checkups and all those maintenance stuff they don’t really show you in the movies. Some organizations may even request refunds for earlier maintenance. To reduce nervous breakdowns and misunderstandings over payments, learn as much about the organization’s policies before deciding to start applying for eligibility for parrot guardianship.

Aside from the mere enthusiasm of talking to a bird, more serious motivations for parrot adoption (such as the desire to preserve natural life) are also becoming more rampant these days. The more passionate individuals who labored on rescuing the more extinct of these parrot breeds are more than willing to share the rewarding load to people who have a heart for the same cause.

Adults who are often dealt with psychological depressions are often advised to keep a pet. Parrots may be a good choice, since their cheery quips can definitely jolt any person out of his misery. When well-trained, parrots can even help out in their own small ways, i.e. welcoming guests in the home or entertaining them.

Having a pet parrot can also do wonders to kids. However, they need to be well-guided by parents as they do so. If done the right way, parrot adoption for kids may serve to be one of their most rewarding childhood memories. Being responsible for menial tasks such as feeding and training the parrot to speak certain words not only makes any kid happy, but it builds a sense of responsibility which will benefit him or her in the long run and beyond the life span of the parrot itself.


Lee Dobbins writes for http://pet-birds.pet-breeds.com where you can learn about parrots and other pet birds
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Dog Treat Recipes

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By Elizabeth Morgan
Dog lovers may want to give their pet dogs some treats to reward their good behavior. Take your pick from these various dog treat recipes.

Homemade dog biscuit recipes include peanut butter, eggs, and flour with bone meal. Cheesy dog biscuits include cheddar cheese, chicken broth, whole wheat flour, cornmeal and oats, while bacon flavored dog treats make use of whole wheat flour, milk, eggs and bacon fat for flavor. There are also microwavable dog biscuits that use a variety of flours including cracked wheat, rye, and whole wheat.

Vegetarian treat recipes include vegetarian dog biscuits which use peanuts for the dog’s protein source. Vegan dog biscuit recipes and doggie Christmas cookies also include peanut butter, honey, cornmeal, and flour.

Copper cookie cutters in fun shapes, such as big and small dog bones, cows, roosters, and squirrels will make fine dog treats that you can make into biscuit treats for your four-legged friend.

If you love baking for your dog, there are homemade breads and cookie recipes that you can follow. These recipes include peanut butter bones, chicken and honey biscuits, big boy beef biscuits, and everyday biscuits. Other dog treats include parmesan herb treats, apple cinnamon drops, whole wheat cream cheese Danish, peanut butter and honey oat crunchies, and beef biscuits. It is important to invest in high quality baking sheets that have a non stick finish to come up with these treats.

Kindly note that dog treat recipes should be healthy for both young and old dogs. These include gourmet biscuit recipes that are delicious, economical, and healthy for the dog. Remember that not all food that is good for human consumption is good also for dogs. Some food can cause allergic reactions such as itchy skin, rashes, coat problems, and dull, thinning hair in dogs.

Before following recipes for dog treats, review first the ingredients to ensure that they are safe for consumption by your dog. Please note that seemingly harmless substances may prove fatal to your dog.


Dog Treats provides detailed information on Dog Treats, Dog Treat Recipes, Homemade Dog Treats, Gourmet Dog Treats and more. Dog Treats is affiliated with Dog Chew Toys.
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Learning About Snake Facts And Behaviors

By: Stephanie Davies

Snakes are probably the most misunderstood, and most illogically feared creatures on the planet. Of the 2,200-plus species of snakes in the world, fewer than 20 percent are venomous. People have an instinctual fear of snakes that stems back for thousands of years. It probably started out as a survival instinct, when there was no literature or way of telling which snakes were harmful or not. On the other hand, biblical literature has encouraged us to fear snakes for an entirely different reason. Other people simply misunderstand snakes, thinking that they are slimy, nasty creatures.

The first thing to know about snakes is that any non-venomous snake will only bite you for 3 reasons. First, if you smell like food. If you have recently handled a warm-blooded animal, such as mice, guinea pigs, even cats, the snake may smell that on you and mistake you for something edible. Second, if the snake feels you are a predator that is trying to harm it. Especially when reaching down towards a snake, the snake can misinterpret you for something trying to eat it. Thirdly, and the most likely reason non-venomous snakes bite, is simply because they are afraid. When given the choice between biting at you (the 5-6 foot tall giant that just stepped into it’s territory) or running away as fast as it can possibly slither…it will choose running away every time. If the snake however, feels cornered, or for whatever reason unable to hide, it will strike out at you, more as a warning to leave it alone than to actually do any damage.

Non-venomous snakes are usually very safe to handle, especially pet snakes or snakes that are used to being handled. Even most species of wild snakes that are non-venomous are perfectly able to be handled without fear of bites (the exception being water snakes and other naturally aggressive species). If you do try to handle a snake, be sure to move slowly, and edge your hand under the belly of the snake near the tail area. If you move suddenly, or from the top, it may mistake you for a predator. Once you have actually lifted the snake and are holding it, do not hold it by the tail, rather support it’s body loosely with your hands (keep a loose but firm grip, if you squeeze too hard it will likely injure the snake), and let the snake explore it’s way around your hands and arms. If the snake seems agitated, or goes into a strike position, it is best to slowly, but gently put the snake back.

You will find that snakes are not slimy, nor nasty in any way. However if they get frightened, they may defecate on you as a way of showing fear. If this happens, be sure to wash the area thoroughly with soap and hot water, as snakes do carry salmonella bacteria in their feces. You must also remember that snakes, while being beautiful and interesting to watch, simply aren’t the brightest creatures in the world, and have about the same thinking power as your average goldfish. Remember when you are holding a snake that it likely sees you as a very odd tree, and does not recognize you as a human being. Snakes react by instinct rather than thought, and as long as you keep this in mind, being around snakes is very easy to do as well as being interesting.

So how do you tell venomous and non-venomous snakes apart? There are several ways to tell, although some species of non-venomous snakes have adapted to be able to look like venomous snakes when they are afraid. If you are ever even slightly in doubt, leave the snake alone! As a general rule, venomous snakes have diamond or triangle shaped heads, instead of rounded heads that most non-venomous snakes have. Also, their eyes are elliptical like a cat’s eye instead of being round as well. Pit vipers have a telltale pit between the eye and the mouth. The pit, a heat-sensing organ, makes it possible for the snake to accurately strike a warm-blooded victim, even if the snake cannot see the victim. Of course rattlesnakes usually rattle, but this is not always the case. Some species of rattlesnakes have evolved without a rattle!

So now that you know more about snake behaviors and facts, I hope you will give snakes a chance. Not only are they fascinating to watch, but they serve a vital function in our ecosystem.

Stephanie Davies is a 27 year old Missourian with a loving husband and an 8 year old son. She currently owns her own business, Mystickal Incense & More, and sells handmade candles, incense, bath & body products and more at www.mystickalincense.com

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Fish Aquariums 101: What You Need To Know

By: David Sanders

A fish aquarium is designed to offer domesticated marine life with a contained environment that mimics that of their natural habitat. Having first become popular in the 1950s, fish keeping is now widely enjoyed by many as a fun hobby and as a beautiful addition to the home. When maintained properly, fish aquariums can add a decorative touch to any room.

The most effective fish aquariums are those that feature the tank itself, along with lighting, a filter and heating unit. Commonly available in various sizes to accommodate space and different types of marine life, fish aquariums vary in price according to both the size and features of the unit. Everything from the small square aquarium to a large fish tank is up for grabs if you know where to find them. Typical fish aquariums can be found in most retail stores, but larger fish tanks often require a visit to the local pet store or some bargain shopping on the internet.

Fish aquariums are very important to housing domesticated marine life in the home. Small fish bowls, which are widely available, are inexpensive but do little to recreate the natural habitat that a fish would normally have. In order to live a long and happy life, fish need circulating water and movement as they have in the wild. When in captivity, which is the case when you have a fish as a pet, they need to have filtered and regularly cleaned water. While lighting is perhaps not as important, it does provide a sense of night and day and natural light for your pet.

When using fish aquariums to house your marine life, it is important that you regularly test the water using a test kit. In addition to changing the water regularly, it is best to confirm that the water you are using is safe. Regular tap water, for instance, may feature contamination that could prove harmful to fish. The reason is because of the chemicals and purifiers that are often used to treat the water. Instead, using distilled water may be the better option to ensure that it is free of chemicals or any other harmful agents. When changing the water in fish aquariums, you should remove up to 20% of the current water and replace it with the new.

When shopping for fish aquariums, it’s a good idea to check over the unit before you purchase it for cracks or other defects. If you are shopping online, be sure to ask about shipping insurance in case your aquarium is damaged while in route to your home.

About the Author:The author is a regular contributor to Aquariums Advice where more information about home aquariums, fresh and salt water is available.Read more articles by: David Sanders

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Protecting Cats From Cancer

By Steve Hill

Cancer does not just affect human beings, cats can also be prone to the ill affects of this deadly disease. I have a cat who is called Pip and in this article I will be writing about my families experience in protecting her from cancer, which the vet has informed us, has ultimately saved and prolonged her life.

Pip is a beautiful and loving cat and is very much part of our family. She is treated like our third child and has what we hope to be a very happy and comfortable life.

I have been surrounded my animals for most of my life as my parents run an animal sanctuary in the Birmingham area of England. I have learnt quite a lot about these different animals and have a particular love of cats and dogs.

Pip herself is ninety-five percent white in colour, the other five percent is black. I am aware that cats which are mainly white are basically at a higher risk of catching a type of skin cancer than other cats. In the summer Pip would always love to sunbathe, basking in the sun. I would ensure that I put sun cream on her, mainly around her ears and tried to encourage to sleep more in the shaded areas of our garden. Pip is however quite stubborn and insisted on resting out of the shade.

Over the years I would check Pip out at regular intervals and one day noticed that she had some little black spots in and around her ears. These spots had not been there the last time I had checked her over and therefore I decided to take her to the vets. I felt confident that everything would be fine but just wanted to make sure.

The vet examined Pip and looked quite worried. He told us that Pip had a form of pre-cancer and that the only way that she would survive, in his opinion, would be to have her ears amputated.

This was very sad but we realised that in a way we had no choice. This all happened four years ago and Pip is still going strong today, unaware of how close she was to losing her life. The vet has stated that if I had not checked her out and brought her in to be examined that the cancer would have spread and that Pip would have only lived for around three to six months.

My advice for anyone who has a cat as a pet, especially if they are white in colour, is to check the cat every week or so and if you spot anything out of the ordinary, to take them to the vets.
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Stephen Hill helps to promote a number of websites including:
cancer therapy for cats
antiaging products
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Horse Breeds - Types of Warmbloods

By Nanette Hughston

Warmbloods are amazing animals. They are some of the most beautiful horses in the world, with a versatility that is unbelievable. Warmbloods, unlike what many people think, are a true breed. All of the studbooks are closed. What this means is only a horse of that breed can be registered in that studbook. The only exception is individuals of other breeding that are deemed to be able to improve the bloodline of the current breed. This is shown through performance records and the success of offspring in competition. The recent opening of the Trakhener studbook is due to a loss in type of modern Trakheners. There are various types of Warmbloods:

The Hanoverian

The Hanoverian’s originate from Germany. There primary use is for dressage and show jumping. These horses are mildly temperamental, with more of a calmness in nature than many horse breeds. The most common coloring in the Hanoverian are Chestnut, Bay and Grey.

The Hanoverian Horse is a well built, well put together horse with much success in the disciplines of dressage and show jumping. This breed tends to be very versatile.

The Holsteiner

The Holsteiner originates from Germany, usually reaching 16 to 17 hands. These horses are mildly temperamental and are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. They tend to usually be bay in color, but mostly any solid coloring. Most Hosteiners have a defined canter that tends to be very expressive, but lacks an impressiveness at the trot. They are typically well known as excellent jumpers but have made their imprint on the dressage community.

Dutch Warmblood

The Dutch Warmblood’s originate from Holland and are very easy going, typically calm in nature. These good tempered horses are built well running around 16 to 17 hands. They are known to excel at whatever discipline they are trained by.

Friesian

The Friesians originate from Holland and Germany with the studbook now kept in Germany, the FPZ. They are mildly temperamental growing to a huge size of 17 hands. They are primarily used for Dressage and reining but are sometimes seen on the show jumping circuit. These horses are also used for trick training, being widely versatile and very easily trainable. There are distinct characteristics of the Friesians. Baroque, which is mainly upright, with higher action and more feathering with a heavier mane and tail. Traditional, which is heavier and more drafty usually used for driving, and Sport Horse, which is used for all types of riding and driving. These horses are amazing. Very versatile with a very calm temperament for such an enormous horse.

Swedish Warmblood

The Swedish Warmbloods originate from Sweden, obviously. They will grow to be 16 to 17 hands. The are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. There coloring is all solid, predominantly Chestnut. The Swedish Warmbloods are one of the youngest warmblood breeds , so true “type” is not quite defined. Mainly having solid movements, with the conformation and their temperament being highly variable.

Trakhener

The Trakheners originate from Poland and East Prissuia. They tend to be a little more temperamental than a lot of other warmbloods. They are used for dressage, jumping and eventing. Coloring is mainly solid with defined characteristics of nice movements with good push from behind. They tend to be a bit stubborn and even difficult at times. Although there are some very lovely Trakheners. This breed possess a strong competitive drive owing perhaps to the large amount of Thoroughbred blood most carry. This is the only studbook still “open” in an attempt to further refine and define the Trakhener breed.

Oldenburg

The Oldenburgs originate from Germany. They grown to the large size of 16 to 17 hands. These horses are very calm and loveable. There coloring is solid but any color. They are primarily used for dressage and jumping. They were the first studbook with an American Division. Interestingly enough, all American Warmbloods approved by the ISR are registered as Oldenburgs, regardless of their actual parentage.

Andalusians

The Andalusians originate from Spain. They are smaller in height, ranging from 14.3 to 16 hands. They are used for dressage, bullfighting, parades and trick training. They come in solid colors, including mulberry. Bay and grey are the most common. Black and Dun are the least common. Andalusians are classically styled Baroque horses. They have thick manes and tails and tend to have high , lofty actions for their size. The Spanish Olympic Team was comprised entirely of Andalusians for the 2000 Games.

Horses are an amazing animal, no matter what the breed or bloodlines. They love their owners and one forms an attachment to their horse like no other. I couldn’t imagine my life without my horse.
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Nanette Hughston is a freelance writer from the southern United States Region. She has a bachelor’s degree in finance. She rides dressage with Grand Prix Level Trainer, Tracy Masterson at Highlife Farms, Orlando, FL. For more information and articles please see her website at http://www.dressageamerica.com and to visit her training site, please visit http://www.highlifefarms.com for dressage and hunter/ jumper information. Permission for reprint is granted with full bio remaining intact.

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Glucosamine For Dog Arthritis: Is It Safe?

By Barbara Allan

In 1999, glucosamine was the top-selling dietary supplement in the United States, with annual sales of US $288 million. It has become an immensely popular dietary supplement around the world.

It has proven itself again and again though its potential for repairing damaged joints and slowing the progression of arthritis.

Since glucosamine works so well for human arthritis, it is natural to ask: “What about dog arthritis?” Is it safe? Is it effective?

The answer: Yes, it appears to be both safe and effective.

The main safety concern comes from animal studies in which large amounts of glucosamine were given to rats and other animals intravenously, for short periods of time. Under these extreme and usual conditions, glucosamine tended to decrease insulin levels and/or induce insulin resistance. When researchers tested humans with large amounts of intravenous glucosamine, the same thing happened. Hence a concern arose that glucosamine could cause diabetes or make diabetes worse.

Normal therapeutic doses of glucosamine given orally have never been shown to have an adverse effect on insulin levels, insulin resistance or blood sugar levels. Even in diabetic rats and type 2 diabetic humans, normal therapeutic doses of glucosamine taken orally have been shown to have no significant effect on insulin, insulin resistance or blood sugar levels.

Cosequin is the brand name of a glucosamine and chondroitin formulation made to treat dog arthritis, cat arthritis and horse arthritis. It is taken orally and appears to have an excellent safety record.

Cosequin has been seen to have an excellent safety profile. In safety studies, Cosequin given at twice label recommended levels for 30 days in healthy dogs had no adverse effects on blood sugar levels. No clinically significant effects were seen on any biochemical parameter in these studies.

Although no change in blood sugar control would be expected for a diabetic dog, as with the addition of anything new to a diabetic’s regimen, it is advisable to monitor closely.
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About the Author: Barbara Allan is publisher of the website ArthritisArticles.org where expert authors provide info on arthritis treatment and more. Click here for more information on glucosa

Source: www.isnare.com

Please note that these articles are supplied to our visitors as a courtesy. We are not responsible for their accuracy or content, nor are we responsible for or necessarily share the opinions and views of the authors.

Aquarium Disease Prevention; Basic Principles to a Healthy Aquarium

By Carl Strohmeyer

I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge than my personal aquariums as many of customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. That is why prevention is the best remedy.

[1] Cleanliness; regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to remove organic debris before it can fully go through the Nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering your ph. You also want to dechlorinate the water so as to not stress out the fish or environment. There are many good products for this: Novaqua, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.

[2] Good filtration. I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never totally throw out all media, rather I rinse part of the filter media in used aquarium water so as to preserve beneficial (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal).

[3] Use ultra violet sterilization. UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity.

[4] Do not overfeed! Use quality, aquatic based foods, not foods high in cereal, beef proteins and fats, and soy proteins. Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20, Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz.

[5] Watch water chemistry, such PH, ammonia (0), nitrites (0), nitrates (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or higher), ECT. Note that ammonia is more toxic at a higher ph!

[6] When you do treat for disease, do not over medicate or under medicate, then change water. Medicated wonder shells work well for ich and are buffered, which makes one of the active ingredients; malachite green, safer (malachite green is more toxic at lower ph). There are many other excellent treatments such as Pimafix (a great Natural remedy for fungus and flexibacter.

[7] When you purchase fish; First make sure all the fish in the aquarium are healthy (if the fish store has a centralized system [which I do not recommend], check ALL the aquariums). Second, float your fish in the bag for 30-60 minutes for temperature and osmotic stabilization, then open the bag and SLOWLY add your aquarium water to the bag. Third, dispose of the water in the bag to avoid contamination. Fourth, add a shock preventative like Novaqua, ECT.
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By Carl Strohmeyer

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The Top Seven Tarantula Species for Beginners

By V. Berba Velasco

Tarantulas can make wonderful pets. They are exotic, fascinating creatures that require much less attention than a dog or a cat, or even a tank of fish. Many species are hardy enough to require minimal care, and they always make great topics of conversation. Nevertheless, novice pet keepers should be careful about deciding what kind of tarantula to get, as some species can be aggressive or inordinately delicate. Here are some recommendations on the best species for beginning tarantula keepers.

The Honduran curly hair tarantula (Grammastola albopilosum). Pet store employees typically recommend the Chilean rose hair tarantula, but I’m going to defy popular opinion here. In my judgment, the Honduran curly hair tarantula makes for a better pet, provided that one doesn’t mind some extra expense. Like most common pet species, these are gentle, incredibly docile creatures. Unlike the Chilean rose hair tarantula though, these have very hearty appetites. Admittedly, they tend to be more expensive than the rose hairs; however, spiderlings can typically be purchased for a pittance (often from $3 to $6 each), and due to their ravenous appetites, they grow rather quickly.

The Chilean rose hair tarantula (Grammastola rosea). This is the most common pet store variety. They are likewise gentle and easy to take care of; however, they have this annoying habit of fasting for months on end, which can be most aggravating. Still, they do make wonderful pets for beginners.

The Mexican red knee tarantula (Brachypelma smithi). This species, along with the Chilean rose hair, is commonly used in movies and on TV. It is likewise very docile, and much more colorful than most pet store varieties. In my experience though, its hairs tend to be a bit irritating to human skin. In addition, due to its popularity, it has become a restricted species; that is, harvesting them from the wild has been made illegal. As a result, they tend to be on the expensive side.

The Mexican blonde tarantula (Aphonopelma chalcodes). Another docile wonder. For a while, this species was not readily available for sale, but it has been making a comeback. Most pet stores still do not carry this variety, but it is often available via mail order.

The Chaco golden knee tarantula (Grammastola aureostriatum). Easily one of my favorites! These specimens are not as colorful as the red knee tarantula, but they can be distinguished by the gold-colored bands on their legs. They also have impressive legspans (up to eight inches or more!), but their frightening size is belied by their utterly sweet dispositions. However, because they are relatively new to hobbyists, they tend to cost more than other tarantulas.

The Brazilian black tarantula (Grammastola pulchra). These also tend to be on the large side. This is not a colorful species; however, their satiny black carapace gives them a sleek, elegant look. This variety is almost as large as Grammastola aureostriatum, with a legspan of 7 to 8 inches.

The Costa Rican zebra tarantula (Aphonopelma seemani). This one is a bit harder to take care of than the previously mentioned species, but it’s still a treasure. These tend to be a bit skittish though, and so handling them is not recommended. They do not typically bite, but they are prone to running away, and like most tarantulas, they can be easily injured in a fall.
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V. Berba Velasco Jr., Ph.D. is a senior electrical and software engineer at Cellular Technology Ltd, a biotech company that provides ELISPOT expertise, CEF peptides, serum-free media and cryopreserved peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMCs). CTL has offices in Ohio, Europe, China and Japan.
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Leaving Pets at Home? 16 Tips for Preparing for Pet Care While you Travel

By Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

The height of summer travel is upon us and whether you’re heading for a trip to the beach or a wild and wonderful adventure down some rapids, chances are you’re not taking your pets. (Although, if you do want to take them, write me and I’ll send you a copy of my column from last September on tips and hints for traveling with your pet).

When you’re leaving your pets in the care of another there are basic “rules” you both should follow:

1. Reserve your time. You’ll note that many of your neighbors and colleagues travel the same time of year that you do. If you’re hoping your neighbor will watch your cat while you head out of town, confirm that he’ll be in town! Professional companies fill up quickly during busy seasons so you’re wise to reserve your spot for pet-care as soon as you reserve your airfare.

2. Be specific. It’s important that you and your pet-care provider are on the same page. When you say “One scoop of dry in the morning and the evening” make sure your sitter knows which scoop you’re talking about. It’s also a good idea to ensure that the person staying with your five cats “does” litter boxes, otherwise you’re bound to have a huge mess (and possibly strained relationship) when you get home. Other items to specify include: where to dispose of dirty litter, cage liners or doody-bags, how many and what kinds of treats can be distributed, how to use the electronic cat watering machine, the location and instructions for the can opener, which items your bird likes to get into but will do them harm (zippers come to mind), and most importantly what time each day you’d like your visits to occur.

3. Determine liability. No one wants to think about bad things happening, but sometimes they do. Determine now who is liable if your dog bites the neighbor’s child while on a romp in the yard? Or who will pay for the vet bill if your kitty hurts herself while you’re away? There are many different scenarios here, so think them through and discuss your options with your insurance agent before assuming you’re “covered.”

4. Let your sitter know if anyone else is expected in your home during your absence. If your housekeeper comes every Friday, let the sitter know. If you’ve hired an electrician to come in and rewire, again, let the sitter know. Also, ensure that you and your sitter are clear on liability if the electrician unwittingly lets the cat out the front door while he’s unloading his truck.

5. Do you want updates? Let your sitter know how and when you’d like to be updated on your pets’ activities and behavior during your absence. However, be sure your sitter has a number or a way to reach you no matter where you are, in case of an emergency.

6. Leave plenty of food, toys, litter and other supplies. Most folks keep their dry food in special containers – meaning if its running low, the sitter may not be able to find the original bag to determine what brand of food your pet ‘s been eating. It’s a little embarrassing to carry a piece of kibble into a pet supply shop and ask the clerk, “Do you know what kind of food this is?”

7. Provide the name and contact information of a neighbor who has a key to your home. Emergencies happen, and if your sitter is incapacitated for any reason, they’ll want the name of someone who can get to your pets. This is less likely to happen with larger pet-care companies who have a team of sitters who can provide back-up.

8. Keys. Before handing over the spare set to your sitter, test them (the keys, but let the sitter test the keys too.) Also, don’t leave your keys on your property in hidden places for your sitter. This is a huge liability should some criminal see them leaving the key in your hiding spot – what if some less than stellar person watches your sitter “hide” the key and decides to help himself to your possessions?

9. Re-confirm your plans. Make sure you call and confirm your reservation with your pet-sitter at least two days prior to your departure.

10. Agree on a fee. Make sure you and your sitter agree on a fee for the service provided before your departure, this way no one will have bad feelings or unrealistic expectations upon your return.

11. Block off areas of your home to prevent unwanted access. It’s okay to close bedroom doors, or put up baby gates to keep your pets from heading into “unprotected territory.” Because no matter how well trained your furry kids are when you’re home, they are going straight for the comfiest couch while you’re gone. To save angst and frustration, block off areas that are forbidden, and make sure your sitter is aware of the “house rules.”

12. Be honest about your pets’ personalities. The person caring for your pets must have a realistic understanding of your pets’ personality. If your dog is a big barker, make sure you note that, same thing if your cat doesn’t like to be petted. Set your sitter up to succeed and you’ll be pleased with the results.

13. Close off “doggy doors”. While you may be happy to have your pets roam in and out throughout the day while you’re home, your pets’ safety is in jeopardy if you leave that doggy door accessible while you’re gone. Your dog or cat is used to your routine and knows what to expect when he comes in and out. He’s likely worked out a routine around yours. However, when you’re gone, his routine is thrown for the loop. He can become bored and is more likely to pick fights through the fence, or to dig out to follow a scent, a person or an intriguing sight. Both you and your pet sitter want your pets to be at home and healthy when you return from your trip, so keep that doggy door locked and help achieve that goal.

14. Make it easy to access your home. We’ve already discussed keys, but make sure the outdoor lighting works so your sitter can enter your home safely at night and ensure that the walkways and entry ways are clear of debris and clutter.

15. Write down the extras. If you expect that your sitter will bring in the mail and paper and take out the trash, say so. Your sitter is concerned with the health and well-being of your pets and may not think to water your plants unless you ask. Make sure you specify what extra tasks you’d like your sitter to complete and then write them down so you are both in agreement.

16. Call when you get home. Your sitter is concerned about the welfare of your pets and most will continue to come and visit even after your scheduled return home, unless you call and let them know you’ve returned safely.

Following these sixteen steps will ensure that both you and your pet have a relaxing vacation!

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of peggiespets.com and the founder of petcareuniversity.com. She's also the "Pets in the City" Columnist for the Del Ray Sun and has been a guest expert on "This Week in Small Business" on Chamber of Commerce Radio. Her company has been recognized as "Best of the Best" in the DC metro region by The Washingtonian.

To get all the tips and hints you want to keep up with your pets, subscribe to The Care of Pets e-zine at http://www.peggiespets.com today.

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Vetiquette

By Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

This week my dog Kiera had to go to the vet. I’ll spare you the gory details, but I can assure you, there was no doubt in my mind that something was not right with my normally perfect girl.

While I was at the Vet I struck up a conversation with the team there about some of the things they wish people would remember when they bring their pets in for care. As we talked I realized that there’s some great information here – especially since we shared a few giggles and a few gasps about some pretty rude behavior. Voila! A column on “vetiquette.”

So, here are some things, courtesy of my hard-working front-desk friends at Del Ray Animal Hospital, to keep in mind to make sure you don’t find yourself on the wrong side of the “vetiquette” police.

1. You’re not the only one with a sick animal who is nervous at the office. Try to take into consideration the fact that every person in the waiting room has a sick animal – or at least one that’s not necessarily pleased to be there.

2. Remember people go to the vet for different reasons. Some may be getting over a devastating diagnosis while sitting quietly in the waiting room. Some may have just put their companion to rest after battling an illness. Even if you have the cutest puppy in the world, they may not really be in the mood to be reminded of happier times with their own pet.

3. Not everyone is a “dog person” or a “cat person.” Don’t assume that folks in the waiting room want to play with your pets or appreciate being slobbered, kissed, or purred on by your pride and joy.

4. Vet Clients are entitled to the same privacy as people-doctor clients. When you head to the doctor and you’re getting ready to pay, you don’t expect to have other patients leaning over the counter, looking at your receipt or listening to your diagnosis, do you? When you leave the examining room, realize that it will take a bit to process your receipt and if the front desk staff is busy with another client, respect their privacy and let them finish before you elbow your way up to the desk. Remember, financial stuff that isn’t yours isn’t your business.

5. Don’t offer treats to pets that don’t belong to you. This is a plain petiquette rule. No matter where you are, please don’t feed someone else’s dog or cat. Even if it is your pet’s favorite homemade liver treat. Remember, one of the reasons that pet may be at the vet’s office can be tummy trouble!

6. Keep your cat in the carrier. I thought this was a no-brainer, but I’ve been assured that there are lots of people who insist that “Pookie” just hates the carrier and is perfectly behaved in all situations. Generally this assurance is coming as the owner is proudly watching Pookie walk across the front desk.

7. You are as important as the next person. Meaning, you and your pets needs are of equal importance as those of every other client at the clinic. Speaking rudely, disregarding rules (like cats in the carriers), and pushing other clients’ paperwork out of your way do not make you a more important pet-owner. In fact, it may make some people utter, “there’s an attitude only a pet would love!”

The staff at every clinic goes out of their way to treat each and every pet with care, attention and tenderness. Sharing that attitude with your fellow vet clients can go a long way to keeping you out of ‘vetiquette’ jail!

(c) 2006 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of Peggie's Pet Services (one of the Region’s BEST pet-care companies, as rated by The Washingtonian Magazine.) She's also an engaging and lively speaker on topics related to the love affair between dogs and their humans. She's an advocate for happy and healthy homes for all species and is eager to assist in creating them.

If you want a monthly dose of tips and golden nuggets of information on living with and caring for your pet throughout his life, be sure to subscribe to "The Care of Pets" at http://www.peggiespets.com. Peggie is also a pet-care business advocate and the founder of the Pet Care Business Success University, which can be found at http://www.petcareuniversity.com.

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Green Tree Python or Chondro Python Care (Morelia viridis)

By Chris M Jones

Green Tree Pythons are the dream of many reptile hobbyists. They are one of the most stunning species of snake known to the pet trade; a real gem of the rainforest. Green Tree Pythons are arboreal (tree dwelling) and nocturnal (active at night), making this species incredibly difficult to find in the wild and highly valuable.

As the name suggests, this species is predominantly green in colour, although some individuals may be blue or yellow with flecks of white, black and yellow. Babies are born yellow or red with white and black flecks. This species if native to New Guinea and it’s surrounding islands, reaching as far south as the Northern Tip of Australia in the Cape York Peninsula. As the reptile industry has progressed, keeping this snake has become easier and easier. The old tales regarding the extreme difficulties keeping this snake alive have been thrown out the window, and with enough time, effort and money spent, this species is easy and incredibly exciting to keep. In this care article I will explain exactly how this is possible.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Green Tree Python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 60cm Width x 60cm Height is ample. Many keepers opt for 60cm cubed vivarium or one which is vertically shaped rather than horizontal. Providing they have a minimum of 60cm cubed, I do not feel it is too important which shape is provided. Green Tree Pythons are fairly timid and need to feel secure at all times. Too large an enclosure may scare the snake, yet an enclosure too small will not allow good exercise nor will it be easy to obtain an appropriate temperature and humidity gradient. Juveniles should be housed in smaller enclosures; 30cm cubed is a good size. As they grow, so should their enclosure and if you feel your python will adapt and prefer a larger vivarium, I urge you to consider giving it that opportunity.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

Green Tree Pythons have become such a prized possession for reptile hobbyists that specialist brand vivarium designs have been built specifically for them. These are usually plastic or fiberglass, but melamine and glass are also common. Providing the following steps above are taken into consideration, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Green Tree Python is also capable of doing this. When positioning wood or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. Green Tree Pythons do not typically hide under or in objects like most snakes do; instead, they may choose to sit on a branch situated amongst foliage or with the sides of the enclosure around them. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. For Green Tree Pythons, I do not recommend a particular number of hides, although it is important to provide several ‘sitting’ spots around the vivarium.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Substrate

As Green Tree Pythons are arboreal, I do not feel much of an importance on how the snake should react to a substrate. Rather, how the substrate reacts with the enclosure is more important. Newspaper is cheap, easily disposable, soaks in moisture and will also dry out easily. This is for me the easiest and best substrate for Green Tree Pythons. Aspen, bark chips and other wood chips can also be used, but be sure that no mould is allowed to grow and that regular cleaning takes place.

Heating

Green Tree Pythons require a very slight thermal gradient within the vivarium, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 75-78ºF. The ambient air temperature should be around 84-86ºF. During the night, a slight decrease in temperature by a couple of degrees is acceptable but not necessary.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Green Tree Python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Green Tree Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

During night time hours, an infra-red bulb will make a good addition to a Green Tree Python’s enclosure. If a spot bulb is used, be sure the vivarium does not become too hot. It is recommended that spot bulbs are also encased in a mesh cage to prevent the snake from burning itself. Be sure to also ensure that if using a red bulb at night, that the appropriate temperature change is given to the heating device which is used during the day.

Humidity & Water

This is one of the most important parts to keeping this species, and one which many are confused about. When keeping any snake, I always bare in mind and research the native country to which that snake comes from, and then the habitat in which it decides to live. With this in mind, it is possible to recreate the snake’s environment and successfully enjoy keeping and perhaps breeding it.

Green Tree Pythons are a rainforest dwelling species native to the most Northern tip of Australia and New Guinea. These places have high humidity levels all year round, although it obviously fluctuates greatly from day to night and month to month. It is therefore not important to have exact humidity levels all the time. Rather; it is more important to fluctuate the humidity level and offer dry patches as well as high humidity patches.

Humidity levels vary depending on the temperature of the cage and the ventilation offered. Enclosures that keep high humidity levels all the time are more damaging to a Green Tree Python than enclosures which dry out too quick. It is not important to give a level of humidity, although I suggest that an optimum level of high humidity is reached every day or two, and then allowed to slowly dry out. Misting the cage and substrate is a perfect way of achieving this. Be sure that the cage itself is not too wet; humidity is not dependant on how wet your enclosure is, but how much water vapour is held in the air. If stagnant water is sitting at the bottom of your vivarium, this may cause more harm than good.

Many Green Tree Pythons are not observed drinking from a bowl; instead they are seen drinking from water droplets when misting the cage or from water dripping systems. Most individuals will happily drink from a bowl which is regularly changed, although I suggest with emaciated individuals not observed taking on water, that a drip system is put in place.

Feeding

Juvenile Green Tree Pythons are capable of feeding on pinky mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item no larger than the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling Green Tree Pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two or three weeks, and a larger rat or mouse should be offered. Green Tree Pythons have a very slow metabolism and obese individuals are regularly seen in captivity. Some individuals roam more than others and some are handled more than others, so feeding should depend on each snake and not the species as a whole. It is perfectly acceptable, particularly for male Green Tree Pythons to eat once every six weeks or so, providing of course they do not lose weight.

REPTILES - 1 YR

By Chris Jones

Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.

http://www.petclubuk.com

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The Sealyham Terrier: Otter Terrier

By Michael Russell

The Sealyham Terrier has as its origin the region of Sealyham, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is a cross of several different terriers and hounds, among them the Bull and the Dandie Dinmont and the Fox terriers and the Westy. Another important part of its genetic makeup is the Flandres Basset Hound. From the Basset the Sealyham acquired the short carriage and the heavy duty front legs capable of digging out burrows quickly and efficiently.

The Sealyham Terrier is a terrier which was custom designed by Captain John Tucker Edwardes, an Otter Hound enthusiast. Captain Edwardes desired to produce a dog which would be agile enough to rout out the Otters from between the rocks and crevices in which they hid, into his waiting pack of Otter hounds. Besides, he reasoned, the landowners of the Wales countryside needed a dog that could more easily get into the burrows of the animals which killed their chickens and destroyed their grain stores. His Sealyham Terrier fit the bill, being speedy enough to run with the hounds and small and agile enough to go to ground and less "scrappy" in nature so that he got along well with the pack. This terrier is by nature more of a pack dog than many terriers, this is perhaps due to the genetic addition of the Basset in the gene pool. Whatever the reason, this terrier, although "game" when it comes to the hunt, is more of a couch potato than other terrier types and is noted for being laid back.

The Sealyham is a small dog about 12 inches at the shoulder, with an appearance of stockiness to his body. The coat is the typical wire coat, being white with patches of badger on the head and ears. It is long and should be hand stripped, although pet owners are more likely to take it to the groomer and have it clipped. He is a dog whose form exemplifies his function. The body is deep chested and the back perfectly straight and while the front legs are short the hind legs have a well bent stifle. In layman's terms this type of angulation means that the dog is exceptionally agile and suited to the type of terrain that is rough and rocky. It also means that he has endurance and speed, both necessary features for a dog meant to run the otter to the ground. Temperamentally he is a persistent dog and not likely to give in, stubbornness is a trait that can be difficult when it comes to training but is an excellent quality for a dog that hunts.

In modern day, this terrier is not such a hunter and has adapted himself well to civilized apartment life. He is gentle and affectionate and also adaptable. He prefers the indoor life and makes a great city dog, a short walk will suffice for exercise and he is quite happy spending the rest of his time with the family. If he is brought up with other dogs in the household, he gets along well with them.

The Sealyham is very popular as a show dog, having been registered with both the American kennel club and the British Kennel club since 1910.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs
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Arthritis in Pets

By Michael Russell
DermCare Dietary Supplement Liquid for Dogs & Cats


Arthritis occurs when the joint surfaces which are supposed to glide over each other become rough as they rub together. The joint cartilage, which aids smooth movement of the joint, decreases it's lubrication and deteriorates, thus making movement more difficult and often painful. Pets are just as susceptible to arthritis as humans.

Have you noticed your pet moving at a slower pace? Does your dog have trouble jumping about and running around? Does it take several small jumps rather than a single leap for your cat to reach the counter? If your pet is having difficulty in performing these routine movements and has reduced mobility, chances are he may be suffering from arthritis.

Arthritis in pets, as in humans, can greatly affect your pet's health and well being. With the onset of this Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD), your playful and active pet can quickly turn listless and pain ridden. This disease usually affects larger breeds of dogs, like retrievers, but it can also occur in cats. Approximately 30% of family pets suffer from arthritis. The stiffness, pain and swelling in a pet with arthritis is the same as what most human being would experience.

The cause of arthritis in pets is often different from that in people. While arthritis commonly accompanies old age in humans, dog and cat arthritis is often caused by direct injury to a joint. More old dogs and cats have arthritis than young ones, not because they are old, but because degeneration of the bones worsens over time. It occurs in large dogs more often than in cats and small dogs since the animal's weight is primarily stressed on the joints. Also, the common causes of arthritis, such as hip and elbow dysplasia and other common bone problems, are usually diseases of large, fast-growing dogs. Arthritis, however, does occur in small dogs and cats as well. In the US, an estimate of 20% of cats suffer from arthritis.

Pets can't discuss their pains outright. So how do we know our pet is a victim of this joint disease? Some signs that you should be mindful of are the following: change of personality, being inactive at play, lagging behind on walks, reluctance to jump or climb stairs, difficulty of rising from a resting position, limping and yelping in pain when touched. If you notice some of these signs, have your veterinarian diagnose the condition of your pet with an X-ray.

If your pet is diagnosed with arthritis, don't panic! The good news is, there are plenty of remedies to alleviate the pain. An effective treatment duo to best relieve arthritis pain includes pain medication and weight loss. Common pain medications are analgesic and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. They revive the spirits of the pets by removing their pain, allowing pets to move easily and to exercise. Exercise, in turn, corrects the alignment of the joints which lets them experience less pain. A veterinarian's prescription is necessary to determine the exact dosage for your pet. Some veterinarians recommend Omega 3 fatty acids to protect the heart, kidney and liver.

Many veterinarians recommend using supplements that protect the cartilage. Such supplement is termed as chondroprotective. It not only nourishes the cartilage but it also help pets with arthritis experience less pain. The second part of the double treatment is weight loss. Pet owners should help control their pet's food intake. Studies show that when overweight pets lose weight, their pain significantly decreases.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Arthritis
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Pet Rat Breeding: 10 Crucial Questions You Must Consider

By Colin Patterson
Vitakraft Rat Menu

Breeding any animal is both an art and a science. You should not take it lightly. Here are ten major questions you should ask yourself before you start breeding your ratties:

1. Why do I want to get into breeding? If your goal is to improve upon the parent rats with each successive generation, then you're on the right track. However, pedigree alone is not enough to go by when deciding which rat to breed. Before breeding, be extra sure your rats are free of defects in their appearance and behavior.

2. Have I considered the costs involved? If you are willing to take all the necessary steps and precautions involved, you will be lucky to break even. Before you can sell even one baby, you will face expenses for:

Housing
Additional food
Proper bedding
Advertising
Vet Bills (you never know when an unexpected C-section will be necessary.)

3. Am I prepared to deal with a large litter? Let’s face it. As a first-time breeder it will be difficult to sell the babies -- even if you end up with a show quality animal. That could mean up to 15, or even more, extra mouths to feed for months at a time. So what is your backup plan?

4. Am I aware of the risks involved? It can be extremely satisfying to witness the miracle of birth and to see the doe’s maternal instincts kick in as she tends to her litter. However, there is always that chance that your female rat will give birth to deformed or stillborn babies or that she will need to undergo a caesarean section, particularly if she was bred too early in her life. Furthermore, not all does are cut out for motherhood. She may wind up neglecting her young, or even worse -- killing them.

5. Do I have the time to devote myself to this hobby? At best, breeders will dedicate a good amount of time with each baby: several minutes each day for the first two weeks of their lives. After that, handling time can double as they grow. Both the mother and the baby will need special care and attention, not to mention meticulous cleaning. Also, be sure to factor time for:


Filling out paperwork and pedigrees
Interviewing buyers
Taking care of sick or neglected babies

6. Will I take the time to educate others on proper rat care? When you create a life through breeding, you are responsible for that life. Otherwise, your babies could end up being put to sleep after facing starvation, illness, abuse or neglect. Being responsible means refusing to sell your rats to irresponsible or misinformed owners. This also means being willing to take your rat back in the event that it does not work out in its new home.

Breeding organizations such as the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Society set strict standards of excellence. These standards are the idea that breeders aim for when breeding their animals. While standards address the aspect of the animal’s appearance, excellent temperament and health are also qualities a breeder should strive for. Hence, breeding can be a tremendous challenge and responsibility.

This brings us to the last four questions, which, if you answer "yes" to any of them, are good reasons why not to breed...

7. Do you want to breed rats to make "nice pets"? This is an over-simplification of all that breeding entails. Furthermore, with all the unwanted rats that would make “nice pets” up for adoption and in pet stores the responsible thing to do would be to go and adopt or buy, not breed

People who buy from breeders are typically looking for a specific variety or pedigree. Many times, a litter of rats will naturally include sub-standard colors or markings that will do fine as pets. However, this should not be the goal.

8. Do you want to make money? As previously discussed, there are far more secure business ventures out there without having to risk the welfare of animals. At best, a responsible rat breeder looks at the hobby as a way to defray costs, not a way to fund their retirement.

9. Do you want more rats like the one you have? This, by itself, is not a good enough reason to breed your pet rats. There are simply too many risks involved. As dear as your rattie may be, you may discover that 15 little darlings that no one else wants can be a bit much for you to handle.

10. Do you want to make more of a specific color? While it may be true that breeders will find themselves specializing in a particular color or variety, this is really the result of their hard work and efforts. For a truly responsible breeder, this will never be the reason for what they do.

In conclusion, breeding rats takes a lot of time, effort, and planning. If, after researching and looking into it, you want to get serious about breeding, visit some ratteries. Volunteer for one, if possible. Interview different breeders and, if you can, establish a rapport with one. See if you can establish a mentorship relationship so that you will be well prepared and informed before embarking on your new hobby.

Colin Patterson is a long-time rat breeder and is recognized as one of the world's foremost experts on pet rats. He has written a guide called Pet Rats: How to Easily Train and Care For Your Ratties... To Have a Happy Life Together -- check it out by going to http://petratguide.com
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The Grand Bleu De Gascogne: King of Hounds

By Michael Russell

This large and leggy hound is well known outside of France, its country of origin, even though there are few examples of the breed elsewhere except in the dog shows of Europe and Great Britain. This breed is often termed the "King of Hounds" because of its remarkable stature and great beauty. Furthermore this hound is noted for its tenacity on the hunt and its deep and melodious voice. The Grand Bleu is tall but proportionate in size and is marked with black patches on a mottled roan background with tan. The black patches on the head must always cover both ears and the sides of the head and the entire body is so mottled as to leave the impression of blue roan coloration.

There are four dogs which come from the region of Gascogne in France, all have the Gascogne designation in their name; they are believed to be among the purest of the hound dogs since they are directly descended from the original Phoenician hounds crossed with the Gallic scenting hounds. The Grand Bleu lays claim to being the direct descendant of the now extinct Chien Courant, a hound of legendary strength and size. The Grand Bleu was known to bring down wolves in the early days, now it is a hound that is used primarily for hunting deer and wild boar.

The Grand Bleu is nearly as tall as the larger Giant breeds such as the Newfoundland or the Great Pyr but does not carry nearly the weight. It can be 29-29 inches at the shoulder but the weight is that of the Labrador retriever or other large dogs weighing about 80 pounds. This gives him a lean appearance but this is deceiving for he is a well built dog and has considerable endurance for the hunt if he is conditioned. These hounds have a slow gait and a methodical approach to the hunt, which is a useful trait in the hot climate of southern France, where everything seems to move at a relaxed pace. This is a typical hound in manner and affability, being gentle and accepting of people and quite comfortable as a house dog or a kennel dog. His greatest joy is to go on the hunt however and since he is independent as most hounds are he needs to be in a fenced area if kept outside.

This is a hound that is quite strong physically. His natural playfulness as a puppy and his large size can make him a real nuisance to have in a household until he learns to be mannerly. Because of his large size he needs early training in obedience as do all large dogs. Generally the Bleu De Gascogne is little used as a hound today and he is more of a dog that is shown . He is registered by both the F.C.I. and the Kennel Club of Great Britain but is not recognized by the A.K.C. The Grand Bleu de Gascogne has become a breed that is admired as a home or farm companion of great gentleness and affection. Yet the dog has a voice that will intimidate the strangers on the property and consequently he makes a reliable watchdog also.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Dogs
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Acrylic Strengths Over Glass (Fish Tanks)

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By Derek Vanderpool

So Just what makes Acrylic Fish Tanks so special?

Acrylic aquariums are unique in that they afford a wide variety of shape options and the strength one would expect in a product designed to last for decades!

Acrylic aquariums are ten times stronger than glass and are not prone to shatter; while we do not suggest testing our theory I suppose you could take a hammer to that old glass aquarium in your garage and watch what happens!

Take note of the seam work on acrylic aquariums vs. glass fish tanks; no silicon “goop” holding the corners together. Acrylic seams are stronger, bonded, weld-like, far clearer and cleaner than glass. In fact a virtually invisible museum quality seam is available when purchasing an acrylic aquarium, however, make sure you deal with a quality manufacturer and not the guy spending weekends in his garage in his garage attempting to build a quality system without the proper tools or forming oven to get the work just right.

But doesn’t acrylic scratch easier than glass?

Sure it can scratch, but glass also can scratch and when it does what can you do to fix it? With acrylic a simple buff kit is all that is required to remove the scratch. Over the years these kits have evolved from really difficult to use to so simple you can even use them when the aquarium is full of water!

It would seem that an acrylic aquarium purchase is the most sensible purchase for a majority of aquarium keepers due to the strength, clarity, clearer seams, half the weight, variety of shapes, and classier look.

AQUARIUM FISH - 1 YR

Aquariumsource.com offers fine hand-crafted acrylic aquarium systems complete with furniture grade cabinetry shipped WORLDWIDE. To find out more about fine custom acrylic aquariums visit Aquariumsource, LLC.
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