Dog Training – 5 Ways to Stop Annoying Barking

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By Marilyn Burnham

Incessant barking is not just annoying to you – it’s most likely ticking off your neighbors, too. Most cities have ordinances concerning barking dogs and will fine you if your pet can’t be controlled. Most people want their pets to bark when there is danger or an intruder, so teaching your dog never to bark is really not an option. You want to teach your pet that barking to get your attention or because he’s bored is not appropriate behavior. Dogs bark for another reason, too. When your dog sees people or animals walk by a window or a fence – they walk on by. To your dog, that is naturally defending his territory. He has “won” because the intruder is gone. Have you had a dog that goes ballistic when the postal carrier walks on the porch? If the postman stuck around, your dog wouldn’t be stuck in that pattern. Some owners try electronic “shock” collars to keep their dogs from barking, but they are often ineffective unless you engage a qualified trainer. Try working with your dog yourself before going the electronic collar route. Barking is a difficult issue, and many trainers recommend working with your pet on any other behavior issues before you get to it because it may signify a dominance problem with your dog. Here are some effective ways to cope with barking:

1. Leash training. If your dog has a problem with barking indoors, keep his training collar and leash on. Every time he barks, snap the leash to engage the collar and say, “No,” and lead him to a quiet part of the room. Do this every time he hears a bump, sees another animal or seemingly barks for no reason. If he sees or hears a person, do the same thing, but praise him five seconds later. You want your dog to bark when he sees strangers. Repeat until he understands. If your dog begins walking away on his own, lavishly praise him.

2. Tire him out. If your dog barks incessantly when you aren’t home, try playing with him before you leave to tire him out. This particularly works with puppies. Dogs often sleep after they eat, so feeding your dog before you leave can help, too.

3. Stop giving him what he wants. If your dog determines that you’ll let him in the house when he barks, stop letting him in. It may be annoying for a few days while Buster is figuring out that you have just become a better-trained dog owner, but it will be worth it.

4. Radio training. If you're outside dog barks when you are gone, leave a two-way radio at a strategic location in the yard. Armed with the second radio, walk down the street. Ask your neighbor to stand by your fence or do something to make your dog bark. Shout loudly into the radio, “Quiet!” This gets your dog’s attention because he can hear you but cannot see or smell you. Try it a few times and measure your success.

5. Change your dog’s environment. Close the curtains if your indoor dog spends all day in front of the window barking. If you suspect he’s barking because he’s bored, turn on the television for him. If your outdoor dog is the problem, consider keeping him indoors at night or when you are gone, or build a run in a quiet part of your yard.

In very, very extreme cases, an operation can be performed on your dog that eliminates his bark – you’ll just hear a hoarse whisper. The surgery is controversial, and some vets won’t even perform it. Avoid this! Work with your dog yourself. If you get nowhere, hire a competent trainer

Marilyn Burnham


Author: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’


The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know! For Information click on House Dog Training
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Burnham

Make Your Cat Purr With Love and Medicine

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By Roxanna Wehrly

Have you find yourself itching madly in the middle of the night? Does your cat appear tormented from some invisible evil on a regular basis? Hey, I think I may have an idea of what you have. You've got fleas!

Advantage
Advantage cat flea medicine will work on your cat or any pet for up to 30 days. What a lot of people don't know is that you have to make sure your pet has not been wet for the last 24 hours before applying the medicine. You may want to give them a bath with cat flea medicine shampoo prior to using the Advantage, but just be sure there is a span of 24 hours before applying the Advantage cat flea medicine.

What Advantage does is it kills all the fleas. Within 24 hours it goes into the blood stream of your pet. If a flea was to bite them then it would fall off and die.

The biggest problem with cat flea medicines on the market now is that they only work on the mature fleas and not the unhatched ones laying in dormant. Or the fleas they may be nesting and breeding inside your carpet. It's always a good idea to use flea powder on your carpet at the same time you apply your flea cat medicine if the problem has gotten out of control.

If you see a flock of fleas on your pet and think that killing them will get rid of the problem, think again. Killing the flees you see is only one part of the problem. Because as new fleas begin to hatch, the larvae settles into cracks in the floor, deep into the carpet and under cushions on your furniture. The larvae that hatches outdoors thrives in sandy soil, under plants and shrubs -- anywhere your pet lies down or sleeps.

How well your cat flea medicine will work all depends on if your cat stays inside or is an outside cat. There are many more fleas outside just hiding and waiting for their prey so getting rid of fleas on an outside cat will be a much bigger problem.

I know a friend of mine who flea bombed her houses and still continued to have problems. The reason for this is that the spray doesn't get under any chairs and most of the time just makes a very big mess.

Most people don't realizes how big a problem just one flea can make for your pet, not to mention you. Listen up and you'll agree... the female flea routinely consumes 15 times her body weight in blood every day. This high protein diet enables her to lay around 25 eggs every 24 hours. Some have speculated that in just 30 days, ten adult female fleas on your cat could produce a quarter of a million offspring. That is a lot of miserable scratching and itching!

Brewers Yeast
Another cat flea remedy I have used and would be my second choice is Brewers yeast. You put a small teaspoon of this in their food. For some reason fleas do not like the smell. This seems to work reasonable well. An added bonus is that Brewers yeast will also provide many vitamins and minerals for your cat.



Water and Vinegar
A water and vinegar solution is also something I have heard along the way. You would spray this on your cat. The vinegar in the solution will burn the fleas and they will hop off your pet. The only problem I see with this being that you still have the fleas inside your home and carpet, and not to mention the worst thing being that the cats hate water and will not appreciate being sprayed down. You may need to do this every few days until the problem disappears. Not the best cat flea medicine, however, it is a low-cost solution.

Author Credit: Get smart pet tips and strategies for taking care of your cat such as articles like cat flea medicine at AboutCatsInfo.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Roxanna_Wehrly

Pet Relocation - Tips For International Pet Moving

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By Kevin O'Brien

Five Tips for Safe and Humane International Pet Relocation

Owning or adopting a pet should be for life, regardless of what corner of the world your career or other circumstances happen to send you. When planning an international move transporting your beloved pet is only part of a long, daunting list of preparations that have to be made. Many people feel forced to find new homes for their animals rather than subject them to a traumatic transportation - however there are steps that can be taken to ensure the journey is as easy as possible on your companion.

1. Contact the local consulate of the destination country: The first step in planning an international trip with a pet should be to contact the consulate of the destination country for your pet's importation requirements. Some countries require a lengthy quarantine; others have more rigid standards and some only accept pets at certain airports within that country. The most important thing to remember is just like human travel, pets also need additional documentation in order to enter its desired country. Each country is different, as they all require their own documentation when accepting pets.

2. Find an airline that will work with you: Contact the airlines that fly to your proposed destination, select one and then check with them to confirm that they will accept your pet on the day and flight that you prefer. This will allow you to see if this date works, or how you can work around their flight times. As soon as you get on the plane, ask a flight attendant to confirm that your pet is on board. That way, if there's been any mix-up and it has not been loaded, you have a better chance of getting something done about it. Some airlines will allow you to carry small pet carriers with you in the main cabin, but only if it will fit under the seat in front of you.

3. Visit the vet prior to the flight: Your Veterinarian must be consulted well before your departure date. They will give your pet a full check up and advise you on any potential problems and can also assist you with questions or concerns that you may have. Make sure you have all the required documentation, as noted when you contacted the consulate of your destination.

4. Limit food intake the day before travel: Although they may initially disagree, your animal's potential for a comfortable trip can be increased by limiting their prior food intake. Prepare your pet for its journey by reducing the quantity of food the day before flying. Allow for normal water access as dehydration is a serious danger. Make sure to walk your dog before you go to the airport and before check in, which should be 1-2 hours before the flight.

5. Equip your pet's carrier or crate with the vital necessities: The big day has arrived! While your pet is out of your sight and care, make it as easy as possible for airline staff to care for them. Your animal's travel crate must meet the airline's standards and be large enough for the pet to lie down comfortably turn around and stand freely in. Mark the crate with "Live Animal - This side up" and include your name, address and telephone number. At least two water bowls and dried food must be attached to the top of the carrier in case there are any flight delays. Any medication that is used for your pet must also be recorded with the name of the drug, the time and directions of administration.

While you can make all the arrangements yourself, nothing is worse than having your pet impounded or lost because of an oversight or lack of knowledge. Make it a point to double-check all requirements and to follow up on each aspect of them.


If you are pressed for time, or are more comfortable placing the care of your pet in the hands of international pet transport professionals, reputable companies such as www.PetRelocation.com can assist you. Their specialists have successfully completed thousands of international pet relocations with fully customized travel itineraries to the most remote places on the globe, and their in-depth understanding of the pet relocation market is unparalleled.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_O'Brien

Learn All The Secrets of The Amazing Goldfish

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By Joshua Stanton

Goldfish are known to be the most common and popular choice for pets. But why do people bring home Goldfish? They can’t run or let out a squeak leave alone express themselves and they definitely can’t play catch. All they will do is just swim and swim and swim and yet they manage to make that connection with us and we love them for it. If you ask a Goldfish lover what makes them great, the answer would be: they are great because they just are!

Are Goldfish really gold?

One of the probable reasons why people are attracted to Goldfish could be because of their golden hues. It gives them that exotic and different look. However, they aren’t really golden – more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red – that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black. In fact, when Goldfish are born they are neither gold nor orange. They are a very tan or olive kind of shade and sometimes they can be pretty dark. It’s only when they grow that they begin to change their color.

Essentially a wild species, Goldfish probably acquired their color over the ages and thanks to genetic mutations and selective breeding we have Goldfish that can range from silver to gold, red to orange, with a single tail or a fantail and some with pop eyes and without dorsal fins! The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. Goldfish is one species that has been bred, crossbred and changed quite a bit and this has been going on since more than hundreds of years. But when did it all begin?
The Birth of the Goldfish

It all began in Ancient China when the goldfish as we know it today was bred from the gibel carp which is found in slow moving waters in South China. The first evidence we have is in the year 265-415 when the Chun dynasty recorded the gold hue of this fish. From then on documents show that the goldfish were raised in ponds within Buddhist monasteries and mostly in the houses of royalty and other aristocrats.

It was during the reign on the Ming Dynasty that records show the Goldfish being raised in bowls as indoor pet. This in fact helped the Goldfish to evolve double tail and anal fins, red and white coloration and even dispense with their dorsal fins. Goldfish became linked to prosperity, fortune and good luck and even inspired art in China which was reflected in the goldfish motifs used in silks, ceramics and jade carvings.

Soon they began to become more commonly available and made their first trip out of their homeland to Japan in 1603. In 1611- 1691 goldfish were exported to Europe. It was in 1874 that Goldfish made an entry into United States of America. The 19th Century saw

the demand for aquariums and goldfish grow. The world's first public aquarium opened in London in 1853.

Today’s modern Goldfish has its very own definition: “A small reddish golden Chinese carp kept for ornament” (Oxford Dictionary, American Edition, Oxford University Press). Its official biological name is Carassius auratus and but it’s commonly known as the golden carp or simply the goldfish.

If you want to know more about goldfish, than why not visit my site and pick up your own Comprehensive Guide to Goldfish! http://www.SecretsOfGoldfish.com (Recommended)
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_Stanton

Learn All The Secrets of The Amazing Goldfish

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By Joshua Stanton

Goldfish are known to be the most common and popular choice for pets. But why do people bring home Goldfish? They can’t run or let out a squeak leave alone express themselves and they definitely can’t play catch. All they will do is just swim and swim and swim and yet they manage to make that connection with us and we love them for it. If you ask a Goldfish lover what makes them great, the answer would be: they are great because they just are!

Are Goldfish really gold?

One of the probable reasons why people are attracted to Goldfish could be because of their golden hues. It gives them that exotic and different look. However, they aren’t really golden – more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red – that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black. In fact, when Goldfish are born they are neither gold nor orange. They are a very tan or olive kind of shade and sometimes they can be pretty dark. It’s only when they grow that they begin to change their color.

Essentially a wild species, Goldfish probably acquired their color over the ages and thanks to genetic mutations and selective breeding we have Goldfish that can range from silver to gold, red to orange, with a single tail or a fantail and some with pop eyes and without dorsal fins! The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. Goldfish is one species that has been bred, crossbred and changed quite a bit and this has been going on since more than hundreds of years. But when did it all begin?
The Birth of the Goldfish

It all began in Ancient China when the goldfish as we know it today was bred from the gibel carp which is found in slow moving waters in South China. The first evidence we have is in the year 265-415 when the Chun dynasty recorded the gold hue of this fish. From then on documents show that the goldfish were raised in ponds within Buddhist monasteries and mostly in the houses of royalty and other aristocrats.

It was during the reign on the Ming Dynasty that records show the Goldfish being raised in bowls as indoor pet. This in fact helped the Goldfish to evolve double tail and anal fins, red and white coloration and even dispense with their dorsal fins. Goldfish became linked to prosperity, fortune and good luck and even inspired art in China which was reflected in the goldfish motifs used in silks, ceramics and jade carvings.

Soon they began to become more commonly available and made their first trip out of their homeland to Japan in 1603. In 1611- 1691 goldfish were exported to Europe. It was in 1874 that Goldfish made an entry into United States of America. The 19th Century saw

the demand for aquariums and goldfish grow. The world's first public aquarium opened in London in 1853.

Today’s modern Goldfish has its very own definition: “A small reddish golden Chinese carp kept for ornament” (Oxford Dictionary, American Edition, Oxford University Press). Its official biological name is Carassius auratus and but it’s commonly known as the golden carp or simply the goldfish.

If you want to know more about goldfish, than why not visit my site and pick up your own Comprehensive Guide to Goldfish! http://www.SecretsOfGoldfish.com (Recommended)
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_Stanton

Household Items that Can Kill Your Dog

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By Carol Stack

According to the web site of The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), the number of pets ingesting household and backyard poisons is increasing. In some cases, such as with polyurethane glue, the increase is dramatic. Since 2002 the number of dogs ingesting this glue has risen 740%.

For some reason dogs and cats are ingesting more poisons than in the past. Perhaps there are more products around that are made with poisonous ingredients, or perhaps with our busy lives we forget to put things away in a safe place. Whatever the reason, there is a significant increase in the number of pets dying each year from poisonous substances.

People love their pets and don’t want to see them suffer. There are precautions everyone can take to protect their dog, cat, bird, ferret or whatever from ingesting poisons found inside the home, in the garage, and in the yard.

With the coming of cold weather the number of dogs and cats dying from ingesting antifreeze and ice melts increases. Antifreeze is very toxic and even small amounts can cause kidney damage that is life-threatening.

Most cases of antifreeze poisoning occur right at the animal’s own home because the proper storage containers were not used or the antifreeze was not disposed of properly. Keep these things in mind when working with antifreeze:


• Clean up spills immediately

• Check for leaks under your car regularly

• Store antifreeze in clearly marked containers that are sealed and out of reach of your pets

• Never allow your pet into the area where you are draining radiator fluid from your vehicle

• Consider using products containing propylene glycol, which is a less toxic form of antifreeze instead of those containing ethylene glycol


If you think your pet has ingested antifreeze contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 immediately.

Ice melts (used in areas where it snows to melt ice) are another cold weather problem for pets. Walking on ice melts that contain ingredients such as calcium chloride and sodium chloride (table salt) can cause skin irritation. If your pet licks their paws and ingests the ice melt they can experience many side affects including drooling, vomiting, decreased muscle function, and in severe cases, seizures, coma and even death.

Again, if you think your pet has come in contact with an ice melt product it is important you contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center right away. There are different treatments for different types of ice melts so it will help if you know the type your pet was exposed to.

To help protect your pet memorize the list of poisonous items found on the ASPCA web site at: www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=pro_apcc_poisonsafe. Keep these things out of reach of your pet. Included in this list are things as common as:


• Coffee

• Onions

• Garlic

• Salt

• Yeast dough

• Avocado

• Alcoholic beverages

• Chocolate

• Raisons and grapes

• Citronella candles

• Vitamins

• Diet pills

• Pain killers

• Cold medicines

• Moth balls

• Fabric softener sheets

• Liquid potpourri

• Rat and mouse bait

• Products sweetened with xylitol (includes some sugar-free gum and candy)


The list is long, but it could save the life of your dog or cat if you memorize it and then keep these things out of your pet’s reach.

Copyright 2006 Carol Stack


Carol Stack has been working with dogs for over three decades. She lives with her husband, 3 kids, 4 dogs, 8 cats and 1 bird (Bob) in California. She and her daughter Christy have created a site especially for dog lovers at: www.christysdogportal.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Stack

Great Ideas For Hamster Cages

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By Morgan Hamilton

It is really great to have a hamster as your pet. They are very cute and they like to chew different things but especially cloth. While cats and dogs are allowed to walk freely around your home, you don't let your hamster out of its cage. You do need to have a hamster cage in case you own one of these lovable pets. The cages come in many different shapes and sizes and have a variety of features for your hamster.

The most popular shape for hamster cages is rectangular. Because of this particular shape the hamster cages are usually put in a corner, so that they wouldn't stand in the center of the room and be on your way. When you feel like playing with your pet, you can easily take the hamster out but when you have stopped playing with it and are leaving the room it is good to make sure you have put it in its cage.

You should pay attention to your hamster's security because if it escapes from its cage, it might become a prey for animals. Many neighbours have cats and they can hurt your adorable little pet, so you should protect it from them. Consequently, if there are any cats around you should always lock your hamster in its hamster cage, so that it would be safe.

Just as any other mammal hamsters need a daily supply of water. Most of the hamster cages have a water bottle system. In cages made of wire there is a little ball at the end of the nozzle so that the water doesn't flow free but comes out when the hamster is thirsty.
You can also buy little bows which can be used for feeding. They are put in the hamster cages and the pets can eat from them. There are several types of hamster food.

It is very important to keep your hamster fit as it needs regular exercises. You can help it by purchasing a small wheel that fits inside the hamster cages. This is how you will make sure your lovely pet will get some exercises when it is closed there. There are also such hamster cages which have plastic tubes which go through and around the cage. Their main purpose is to entertain the hamster and let it roam around its home.

Cleaning hamster cages is a very important task and should not be neglected for the well-being of both your little pet and yourself. To make it easy for cleaning, you can put a newspaper on the bottom of the hamster cage and also some wood chips. You just lift the paper and the wood chips out and replace them with new.

When living in a building where having animals is restricted taking a hamster might be just the way to have a pet. It is good for your children to have a pet like hamster as they will easily learn how to take care of a pet while playing and having fun with it.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning pets. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting Hamster Cages
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Cat Training Aids On The Market

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By K Snow

There are many types of cat-training aids on the market. Some
of the most helpful training tools are leashes, a scat mat,
catnip, toys, and food treats.

Having a simply and lightweight cat leash lets you train your
cat to go for a walk or ride in the car. Cats require exercise,
and using a leash while taking a walk with your cat outside will
provide protection and keep the cat from running off. You want
the cat to walk with you, not ahead of you, so train the cat to
expect that you will be the leader. Both of you will enjoy your
walks much more if this approach is taken.

The scat mat is good for showing cats that certain areas are
not open to them. These devices send out pulses of static
electricity when a cat enters the forbidden area. There are
many sizes and colors of scat mats. Some even come in
transparent versions so the cat cannot see that they are on the
area. Additionally, scat mats are safe to use. They can be
connected if you have especially large areas where you don’t
want your cat to go. Dummy scat mats do not include the
electric pulse and may be used after the cat is trained to
provide reminders of appropriate behavior.

Catnip can be used on cat litter to attract the cat to the
litter box. Male cats tend to respond more to catnip, which has
a scent similar to the urine of a female cat. Catnip comes in
different forms for training. Toys that are filled with catnip
can help a cat to learn a specific behavior. For fund, catnip
in bubble form is available. It is similar to the kind of
soap-bubble toy that children play with, but it has an added
scent of catnip. The product is safe for your cat and will not
harm him or her. Catnip is also available in a powered form
that you can rub on your hand. You can even buy catnip seed and
plant it inside or outside your home to give the cat a real
treat.

If your cat is pouncing on things like it would pounce on a
mouse, it may be useful to give the cat a toy mouse. Cats, by
nature, will pounce as if they are killing something. Having a
toy mouse lets the cat act in a normal way. Some toy mice on
the market can be wound up so the cat can chase them. Others
may be stuffed with catnip. Training a cat has a lot to do with
letting it fulfill its natural instincts. A cat that can perform
its normal activities will be a happier and healthier companion.

Offering healthy food rewards is another good tool for training
a cat. Many cat treats include vitamins so you will know that
the cat is getting what it needs nutritionally. If you are a
baker, you might want to try to make your own cat treats. There
are even prepackaged mixes available.

Remember to be patient with your cat while it is learning.

Discover more articles and resources offering tips and advice about Training cats and other pets by visiting http://petsize.com
Source: http://www.isnare.com

Hermit Crabs - Helpful Tips for Care

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By Tonia Jordan

First, remove from your mind the idea that these creatures are very low maintenance. It’s not that they require a huge amount of your time, but they do require weekly bathing, new food every few days, new water every day, heat, and a regularly cleaned environment.

Habitat:

A hermit crab will be very comfortable in a 10-gallon or bigger aquarium with a few inches of sand or stones at the bottom. Two shallow dishes of water are required – one for salt water and one for dechlorinated fresh water. You can buy additives at pet stores in preparing each water dish. Sponges sitting in the dishes work very well to help add humidity to the habitat.

You’ll also need a thermometer and humidity gauge. The tank needs to be between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. You can use either an under-tank heater, or low wattage lighting to provide heat. The humidity must also be between 70 and 80 percent to keep your hermit crabs healthy.
It helps to have a lid on your tank to keep in moisture, and to keep in your crabs. They can be quite the climbers!

Food:

Commercial hermit crab food can be purchased at any pet stores that sell the animal. Supplement their daily food regiment with assorted fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grain breads, or small pieces of fish and meat. You can also offer some pieces of cuttlebone or boiled egg shells for calcium.

You will need to clean food dishes daily and remove any uneaten bits of food from the tank. Also rinse and refill water dishes daily.

Shells:

Be sure to provide plenty of empty shells in a variety of sizes. Make sure to also have a variety of shells in different shapes and styles, and with various opening sizes. You never know what type of shell a hermit crab may like, and if a good selection is not provided, crabs can fight over the best ones!

Bathing:

Hermit crabs need to be bathed once per week to stay healthy. (This is also a good time to clean the rest of the habitat) Fill a bowl about one inch deep with lukewarm tap water. Very slowly place the hermit crab feet first into the water. Often, the hermit crab will seek shelter inside its shell during this process. As the crab emerges, the water will go into his shell and rinse it clear of any debris. After a few minutes of walking around, take the hermit crab out and place it into his newly clean tank. (This may also be a good time for a treat of fresh carrots or any other type of treat)

Cleaning the habitat:

About once per month, do a thorough cleaning with hot water. Avoid detergents and chemicals as these can be harmful to your pets. Sand can be washed and boiled or baked to sterilize it for re-use, if desired.

Hermit Crabs are very friendly and fun pets. While they do require a good deal of care to keep them healthy, they are very rewarding pets and can be quite the stress reliever. As with any pet, research should be done before you make the decision to adopt it.


This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.
Tonia Jordan is a freelance Journalist and a writer on http://www.Writing.com which is a site for Writers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tonia_Jordan

Travel with Pets

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By Jillian Scheeler

Pet Travel: What to do when traveling with pets

Pet air travel tips, road trip tips and more Pets are like a child to many and the thought of leaving them at home while on vacation is not an option for some. However, before taking your pets on vacation with you, there are several items that you need to be aware of and a few pet travel tips that need to be followed.

Pet travel decisions While it may be tempting to bring your pet with you on vacation, keep in mind that some animals are not suited for travel whether it is due to illness, age or physical impairments. It is very important to consult with your veterinarian about pet travel and pet air travel before embarking on a trip to ensure the safety of your pet.

Trains, planes and automobiles

Pet air travel Every airline has different rules and regulations when it comes to flying with pets. So to avoid finding out your airline doesn't allow pet travel at the last minute, there are several things that you can do. First, contact your airline well in advance and find out their pet air travel regulations. Carrying your pet on board with you is the best option, but oftentimes cargo is the only option with some airlines if your pet is large. While Congress did pass the Safe Air Travel for Animals Act in April 2000, there are several items that need to be considered to ensure your pet's safety while flying in cargo. First, many airlines have specific carrier requirements so make sure you fulfill these. Second, make sure the carrier you choose is large enough for your pet to be able to turn around in and be comfortable for the long flight. Third, try to make sure it is a non-stop flight to ensure that your pet does not get lost. Fourth, correctly adhere a label on the pet carrier with your phone number, address, final destination and contact number while on vacation. There are plenty of other considerations and tips that can be found by looking at the Humane Society's Web site. If your airline does not allow pets to travel or you are wary of transporting your pet via cargo, you have other options to consider.

Road trip with pets Many pets love traveling by car; so it is a personal decision as to whether your pet needs to be kept in a carrier or not. Cats oftentimes are uncomfortable traveling, so it is better to keep them in a carrier for their safety and yours. If the pet is not going to be kept in a carrier you need to make sure they are safely secured in the vehicle. There are special harnesses that can be bought to secure or "seatbelt" your dog in safely. It is important to stop frequently when traveling with pets to let them exercise and go to the bathroom.

Trains, buses and ships Very few ships allow pets to accompany travelers and Amtrak does not allow pets. However, many European trains and a few small US railroad companies allow pets on board. As far as buses and other public transportation, the rules and regulations vary between states and cities.

Pet accommodations There are hundreds of Web sites out there that list pet friendly hotels and a pet-friendly hotel can be found in almost any city. For example if you're traveling to San Francisco you can stay at the Hilton San Francisco Financial District or if you're visiting Austin you can stay at the La Quinta Inn Austin North.

Pet Fun Wherever you are vacationing, a pet-friendly park or beach can be found and outdoor related activities are best for pet travelers. For restaurants, outdoor places will oftentimes allow pets to accompany.

When traveling with pets it is important to ensure their safety and not to do anything that could put them in danger. And if you're going to bring your pet with you, make sure that you will be able to entertain them. Here's to happy traveling!


Jillian Scheeler makes it easy to provide advise on how to carry pets along with you while travelling. To recieve your free part minicourse visit the Travel with pets.
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Aquarium Filters - How They Work and the Benefits and Negatives of Each Type

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By Carl Strohmeyer

AQUARIUM FILTERS

There are several different kinds of aquarium filters, each with advantages and disadvantages. Most work best when used in combination to compliment each other, this redundancy is also important for peace of mind in case one filter fails, another will keep your aquarium filtering. I give my opinion too with each of these types of filters, based on 28 + years maintaining a Large Aquarium maintenance company in Los Angeles, California. I used many different types and brands of filters during this time, and continue to try new ones out.

UNDERGRAVEL (UGF)

An old standby that is good for biological filtration (the conversion of fish waste from ammonia and nitrites to less harmful nitrates), but is poor for mechanical filtration (the removal of debris- organic and inorganic). Although I have use many over the years with good results, I do not generally recommend them anymore. Most also do not perform chemical filtration although some have small carbon cartridges that go on the exhaust of the lift tube (Lee’s makes such a UGF). They are also not real good for planted aquariums; the roots have a hard time thriving with the filter plants just below the gravel (although you add potted aquarium plants to aquariums with UGFs). UGF are also poor at denitrification, as they do not allow for the fine sand and anaerobic bacteria needed for Nitrate removal.

If used, I recommend a HOB (power filter) as a compliment, they have better mechanical and chemical filtration, but tend to be lacking in biological filtration (some are better than others for this).

HANG ON BACK-POWER FILTERS (HOB)

Another more popular filter now, these filters are good for mechanical and chemical filtration, and sometimes biological filtration. This does vary widely with the model though. The Aqua Clear is better than most for biological filtration, but it’s design tend to lead to flow-by, resulting in poor mechanical filtration (they also have poor impellers, and in my experience, have a higher than normal break down record). The Penguin has good mechanical filtration (little flow-by), but are not as good for bio filtration, EVEN with the Bio-Wheel! I have run many Penguins since they came out, but their bio-wheels tend to stop easily, and I have run ammonia and nitrite tests with heavily loaded aquariums and observed little difference with or without (I added a seeded Sponge filter to these same tanks and observed an immediate improvement in these levels).
Whisper and ReSun use cartridges that are best rinsed in used aquarium water, or else should have a small sponge placed in them to preserve bio colonies, otherwise these would be my HOB of choice.

HOB filters are good compliments to sponge filters or under gravel filters.

SPONGE FILTERS

Probably one of the most under rated filters available. These filters are excellent biological filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are simple and inexpensive. The type of sponge material makes a large difference in the filters bio capacity. Reticulated filter foam is the preferred sponge material. One of the sponge filters benefits is their ease in cleaning, which in turn lowers the amount of organic material being broken down in the nitrogen cycle. It takes only minute to clean a sponge filter by rinsing it used aquarium water, while it may take half an hour to clean a canister filter.

Internal filters and HOB small aquariums are good compliments to sponge filters. Canister filters are good compliments to sponge filters in large aquariums.
I have a lot more information about sponge filters in my article: "Sponge Filters"

INTERNAL FILTERS

Not as common a filter but a much less alternative to expensive and bulky canister filters. Internal filters are basically a power head with a filter of varying capacity attached. They are useful for improved water circulation, generally are good mechanical and biological filters (although generally they do not have a large capacity). They are a great secondary or even third filter in large aquariums, and a good secondary are even primary filter in small aquariums (under 60 gallons).
Internal filters are a good compliment to almost any filter (especially fluidized).
I prefer the Via Aqua internal filters for the flow rates, internal sponges and durability.

CANISTER FILTERS

Popular filters for larger aquariums in particular, Canister filters are known for their large capacity, which sometimes can be their problem. Many aquarists will not clean canister filters often enough as they are “still running well”, but in reality are have a large build up of organic sludge turning them into ‘nitrate factories”. I do recommend them if they are serviced regularly, as their ability to hold large amounts of different filter media and their excellent mechanical filtration set canister filters above most other filters. For the money I prefer the Via Aqua or Jebo (the Jebo is the same basic filter), the Eheim is excellent but way over priced for the slightly better quality. The Magnum has unique convertible features (the ability to switch between standard canister filtration and micron), but their capacity is poor compared to the rest. Although popular, I am less than impressed with the Fluval. They have weak motors, poorly designed impellers, and have a larger flow-by than most others. I have had dozens of Fluvals on my maintenance route over the years, and their longevity is less than most others.

Canister filters are good compliments to internal and sponge filters.

WET/DRY FILTERS

Popular with marine aquariums in particular, these filters are great biological filters, but poor mechanical filters. They also can become “nitrate factories” like canister filters if not maintained properly.

They are two basic types; the under tank wet/dry which uses a siphon to take aquarium water out to the “sump” where the bio balls are other biological media are, and uses a pump or powerhead to return the water. With this type of wet/dry you want to make sure that you do not over fill the aquarium past where the sump will over flow with the pump off in case of a power or pump failure. This type also usually has a pre filter box to add mechanical filtration to the wet/dry. You can run a variety of bio media in this type of wet/dry. Bio balls and ceramic bio media are popular; live rock, plant refuguiums, sponge filters attached to the pump intake, or all of the above are also popular.

The other type is the built into the back wet/dry. These wet/drys are usually much more reasonably priced (along with the aquarium they are attached to). They usually do not have the versatility or capacity as the under tank wet/drys do though.
Internal filters are usually good compliments to wet/dry filters.

FLUIDIZED BED FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters only. They work well attached to an internal or canister filer (I prefer an internal). Fluidized bed filters use fine sand kept suspended in a water flow for aerobic biological filtration. The plus is they are basically self cleaning as the sand is constantly rubbing against other grains keeping down the organic buildup. The negative is do not supply a lot of oxygen for the aerobic bacteria. I have set up fluidized filters in marine aquariums in place of wet/drys with excellent results (I set up a whole marine aquarium store department this way). But I strongly recommend other filters (especially internal) to make up for the weakness of fluidized filters. If properly installed, their strengths will shine (they are not the nitrate factories that wet/drys are).

MUD FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters. Their advantage is they work both aerobically and anaerobically (removing nitrates). They are not good as the only filter and do not replace mechanical or even germicidal filtration (in marine). They do make an excellent alternative to sometimes difficult to use protein skimmers.

GERMACIDAL FILTRATION

Germicidal filtration is the use of UVC radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens and improve the Redox Potential in aquariums. I believe they are essential to a healthy marine fish aquarium. But are equally important to expensive and sometimes delicate freshwater fish such as Discus. I have a very in depth article about “Why you should use a UV Sterilizer and how it works”. I strongly recommend reading this article.


By Carl Strohmeyer
http://aquarium-filters.blogspot.com/
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/
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