About Lizards - The Leopard Gecko as a Pet

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By Jon Beebe

Leopard Geckos serve as great household pets, for older children to adults. Leopard Geckos are among the most common lizards chosen as household pets because of their small size, they are easy to care for, they are very clean for a terrarium pet (their droppings habits are similar to that of a cat - they choose a main corner to lay their feces), they have an average lifespan of 19 - 22 years (longest recorded lifespan for a Leopard Gecko is 27 years), they have interesting wide-range of colors, and they can grow very tolerant to being handled. However, children should be monitored while handling Leopard Geckos because if they are under extreme stress or fear, their tails tend to fall off.

Another good reason why Leopard Geckos as pets are a good idea is because of the fact that Leopard Geckos are very easily found available at pet stores. Just like buying a dog, you can decide to buy a Leopard Gecko today, and find a perfect one to take home with you in less than an hour (of course, that's depending on how long it takes you to get to your local pet store). For those that are hesitant about keeping wild-caught animals as pets (for example, the common blue-bellied lizard that you used to catch when you were a small child), rest assured that Leopard Geckos are one of the few lizard species that are regularly bred in captivity, for the purpose of selling as pets. As an entire package, Leopard Geckos are comparatively cheap when you look at all your getting. Leopard Geckos are beautiful lizards that come in all kinds of different colors, breeds, and design patterns; they are very tolerant to being handled, are relatively non-aggressive (I'll get to the relatively part soon); they are very clean for any kind of pet, not just lizards and reptiles; they are very easy to breed (given the proper instruction). Leopard Geckos (depending on their rarity and sometimes age) are very cheap in contrast to other reptiles that may not have all the same good qualities as Leopard Geckos.

So do Leopard Geckos bite, you ask? The reason why I said Leopard Geckos are relatively non-aggressive earlier is because I have had cases where baby Leopard Geckos would bite my fingers when I attempted to hold them, because they were not used to it. Did it hurt? Absolutely not. Leopard Geckos are toothless, very small in size, and just don't have enough power to really hurt a human being; regardless if it's a baby or an adult. That being said, I wouldn't encourage any kind of animal to bite another human being, especially small child who's fingers aren't as strong as a grown adult's.

To conclude this article, I'll end with the note that Leopard Geckos make great pets, and even if they weren't so low-cost, they would definitely still be my first choice as a reptile/lizard pet.

J. Beebe is a reptile owner and has owned and studied them for years. He specializes in Leopard Geckos and runs an information website called:

The Leopard Gecko Resource (http://www.geckosleopard.com/)
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Beebe

Separation Anxiety In Dogs: The Signs

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Does your dog have separation anxiety? Here are the tell-tale signs...

If your dog shadows your every movement around the house when you’re there, and sleeps on or near your bed, and IF it has trouble doing any different, it may have separation anxiety. Any destructive behavior will occur about 20 minutes to a half hour after you leave, so another way to figure it out is to plan on returning after that time on a few occasions. A dog with separation anxiety will not likely tolerate even being left in a separate room from you with a door closed between you.

Also the things they chew or destroy are most often “escape routes,” such as doors or windows (they believe may lead them directly to you). Also, they may munch items that they associate with you by smell. Although it can seem like a vindictive reaction, I assure you it’s usually more a nervous one.

If you return home to find that your dog pees or poops in a number of different locations in the house, AND they do not appear guilty about it when you return home, they may be manifesting their separation anxiety. The dog in question may be beyond the house training stage, and the fact of the different accident locations is a sign that they are not continually returning to a scent “marked” location and confusing it with an appropriate place to go.

A dog that barks or whines continually when you are away is also admitting – to your neighbors if not to you – that they have a bad case of separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems dogs develop, and is an unsurprising result of our practice of domesticating them. They are social animals, and they crave a pack environment. The good news is there are simple and proven solutions.

About the Author:Martin Olliver is a member of the Kingdom of Pets team. For more great articles on dog training, including "Separation Anxiety: some Solutions," visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/separation_anxiety_in_dogs.php. Read more articles by: Martin Olliver Article Source: www.iSnare.com

Cat Behavior Problem And How You Can Solve It

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By Mikee Dunn

As a loving and caring cat owner, it concerned me when I found out that my precious kitty had a cat behavior problem. She had a lot of issues and we’ve worked out most of them. Here are just a few examples of what was wrong with her, and how we fixed it.

My cat suffered from the cat behavior problem of aggression. She would sometimes attack me as we played or while I was petting her. I couldn’t understand why. A veterinarian told me that cats take playing too seriously and may become overly aggressive. Once the cat’s ears get pinned back and the tail swings stiffer than usual, you know that play time should end before scratches begin. The reason for aggression during petting is unknown, but a common question among owners. The best way to stop this is to pet the cat with treats next to you. When the cat seems to stiffen up or moves around more, give her a treat and she’ll calm down. Eventually, the cat will be able to sit in your lap as long as you want without treats.

Another huge cat behavior problem that mine had was the constant meowing and purring. I read up a little and found out that some cats that do it constantly may be sick so I took her to the doctor. The check up went fine, but the veterinarian said I simply had a talkative cat. The only cure for that is ignoring her when she purrs, whereas I used to go and pick her up, adding fuel to the fire. Then after a little bit of ignoring, she finally calmed down…only to have long, loud spurts of purring. I would run into the room and see her sitting by the back door. Since I don’t ever let her out, I looked for a solution to this as well. Of all the things I tried, the one that worked the best was opening the curtains for her. Whenever I leave for work, I open the curtains and she just stares outside for hours. After I get home, there are no more loud moans to be let out!

As you can see, a cat behavior problem is very common and also very treatable with just a little bit of elbow grease. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a person who had a kitty too tough for them to handle…and I don’t intend to start now!


If you want more information on a cat behavior problem of your own, go to http://www.squidoo.com/catbehaviorproblem/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mikee_Dunn

Post Hibernation Anorexia (PHA) in Tortoises

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By Matthew Homfray

Post hibernation anorexia (PHA) is a very common problem in pet tortoises at this time of the year, and can be frustrating to treat. Prevention is much preferable to treatment, and with the correct husbandry, dietary practices and hibernation preparation, this is easily achievable.

Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.

What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?

PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).

Why does PHA happen?

The main reasons for PHA occurring are:

The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.The hibernation lasted too long.

A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.

Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.

The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.

The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.

The owner responsibilities

When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.

If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.

A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.

MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA

Excessive duration of hibernation period

Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter. Low white blood cell count This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.

Disease or injury during hibernation Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.

Poor post hibernation management This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.

Undetected long term diseases Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.

Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.


Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at http://www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Homfray

Keep Your Pet Safe In The Sun

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By Leigh Adams

With warm weather upon us, it's a great time of year for your pet too! Swimming, sunning and just hanging around outdoors can be an excellent time for you and your pet to bond. However, things such as heat, bugs, allergies and general protection must all be taken into consideration.

Never, ever leave your pet in your car for any period of time whatsoever. Cars can reach dangerous temperatures in a matter of minutes. Dogs cannot sweat the same way as humans. They regulate their temperature (barely) through the bottoms of their feet and by panting. Heat stroke can affect a dog rapidly; just as it can a child or elderly person. Obese pets are also more susceptible to heat stroke. Here are some signs to look for: excessive salivating, panting, unusual hyper excitement and increased rectal temperature. If you suspect heat stroke, immediately seek medical attention.

If you and your dog are outdoors, make certain he has access to water and shade. Collapsible water bowls or dog hydration systems are excellent for insuring your pet has water. There are many types of portable dog bowls. There are collapsible bowls and no spill bowls that dual as a container for your pet's food. If you bring your dog on long excursions, consider a portable water pack. Water packs are made from durable nylon and are constructed like a harness for big dogs. There are many products on the market today that may help cool your pet in warm weather. Try a cool dog bed for him to lounge on while outdoors. Mats such as these are so versatile; they even insulate dogs from cold floors in the winter! Water-activated crystals keep the mat cool for days with one 30-minute soaking in cold water. Portable pet tents are even available these days to protect your dog from the sun!!

Your pet will love being outside after being cooped up all winter, but just follow some simple safety guidelines listed above. Both, you and your pet will be much happier


Leigh Adams is an avid dog owner and trainer. She is a frequent contributor to this Online Pet Supply Store. When not outside with her dogs Mimmi and SoSo, she enjoys painting and raising Koi fish in her backyard pond.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leigh_Adams

Commercial Dog Food Myth Busters-The First Ingredient (Part 2)

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By Amanda K. Jones

In Part 1 we talked about some of the tricks that pet manufacturers use to make their products look more appealing to consumers. After all, protein should make up the majority of the dog's diet, right? We don't want any of those nasty carbohydrate fillers do we? Do we???

Nutritional Common Sense

If you think about it, the dog’s diet must add up to be 100%. There are five nutrients to take into consideration here (not including water): protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins.

According to accredited veterinary nutritionists, the average adult neutered house dog only needs about 20% protein, 15% fat, and all the necessary vitamins and minerals can fit into 5% of the diet. So what makes up the remaining 60%?

It only makes sense that if the diet is formulated properly and the list ACCURATELY reflects the relative weight of the ingredients, low calorie carbohydrates should make up the balance of the diet. Therefore, the list should have a grain as the first ingredient.

Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, accredited veterinary nutritionist, and staff nutritionist at the Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston, MA, states, “If a diet has the proper protein to calorie ratio and is properly formulated for the average adult dog, the meat source would not be first in the list.”

Despite this, many self-proclaimed pet food experts will try to tell you that carbohydrates are nothing but junk. While there is no minimum dietary requirement for carbohydrates in pet foods, the body does have a minimum glucose requirement to supply energy for critical organs such as the brain. In addition, most cells use glucose as their primary fuel.

Have you ever seen an animal or person who is hypoglycemic (lacking glucose)? Scary!

This glucose CAN come from protein or fats. However, the liver must manufacture the glucose from these sources in order to dump the nitrogen. Carbohydrates don’t contain nitrogen and don’t need to be metabolized by the liver and excreted by the kidneys. This makes carbohydrates an extremely important energy source because they basically allow the body to do less work.

According to Dr. Remillard, "Some pet foods do contain very little or no carbohydrates but overfeed protein and fat. This would most likely be no problem for the feral dog or cat not expected to live past 2-3 years of age. I suggest this is not the ideal diet when one expects your pet to live 10-20 years. It's much like smoking in people--rarely are the effects noted before 20 or 30 years--so it seems OK at first.

I find it interesting when pet owners are concerned about the large carbohydrate fraction comprising pet foods but think feeding vegetables and fruit is more 'healthy' and/or 'natural'. These same pet owners fail to realize that vegetables and fruits are primarily comprised of water and carbohydrates in the form of sugar, starch and fiber. You cannot get away from those carbohydrates."

It's OK--you don't have to avoid a pet food just because it has a carbohydrate listed as the first ingredient.

Also keep in mind that the ingredient list in general cannot and should not be used as a way to assess the "quality" of a pet food. There are just too many factors to consider. We only wish it was so simple. While the list of ingredients may be helpful, it has certain shortcomings that limit its usefulness for evaluating the nutritive value of pet foods.

For better or worse, the consumer must rely on the reputation or word of the manufacturer to assess the nutritive value and safety of the ingredients appearing on the list. If you have any questions about your pet's food just pick up the phone. All you have to do is look a little past the ingredient list to find the toll-free number.

They're waiting for your call!

Amanda K. Jones is a licensed veterinary technician and e-book author. She has had several articles published in professional veterinary journals and is a Tails, Inc. Magazine Furry Forum Expert.

If you're a pet owner interested in learning more about pet food ingredients, or are looking for more information on basic pet food nutrition, you may be interested in Amanda's FREE 8-Week Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition. For more information or to sign-up please visit http://www.petfoodbible.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_K._Jones

Commercial Dog Food Myth Busters - The First Ingredient (Part 1)

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By Amanda K. Jones

The ingredient list is of special interest to dog owners. Many look at the first ingredient and if it’s not a protein source like “beef” or “chicken” they assume that the food is “low-quality.”

They do this because it’s exactly what some pet food marketers and self-proclaimed pet food experts have taught them to do, even though it goes against all nutritional common sense.

In fact, one popular pet publication teaches dog owners how to select “quality” pet foods by comparing ingredient lists.

However, when tested, 23 out of 24 “Top Dry Dog Foods” had levels of calcium that exceeded the maximum recommended level for an adult dog and 19 out of 24 “Top Dry Dog Foods” had levels of phosphorus that exceeded the maximum level for an adult dog.

When these and other nutrients are supplied in excess for an extended period of time they could potentially initiate or complicate certain medical conditions. These conditions include obesity, bladder stones, kidney failure, skeletal disease, heart failure, hypertension, and skin disease.

Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, accredited veterinary nutritionist, and staff nutritionist at the Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston, MA, offers some advice for pet owners.

She says, “I use the placement of the meat source in the list of ingredients as an indication of whether the diet is formulated correctly and that the ingredient list has not been ‘rigged’ to meet current consumer thinking. Current consumer rhetoric about ‘fillers’ and that ‘meat’ should be first in the list is nutritionally erroneous. The logic is flawed.”

The Ingredient List Game

So, pet food manufacturers know that the consumer wants to see a real “meat” source listed as the first ingredient (we’ll talk about by-products and meat-meal some other time). Because there are loop holes in the regulations associated with pet food labels, pet food manufacturers can manipulate the list to make it appear more “appealing” to consumers. Some people associated with pet nutrition refer to this as “the ingredient list game.”

Ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. A protein source like “beef” or “chicken” will appear first in the list of ingredients because the water weight of the protein source simply outweighs the other ingredients. (Whole meat is very high in moisture and actually contains about 75% water.) So in some cases, the first ingredient may contribute a ton of water to the diet and very little nutrition.

Manufacturers can also list several different forms of the same ingredient separately to make certain ingredients appear lower in the list. For example, to make wheat-based ingredients appear lower on the list, they can be listed individually as wheat bran, wheat flour, wheat germ meal, etc.

Veterinary nutritionists do recommend that an animal protein source should be in the first 3 ingredients listed for commercial dog food.

So what should be the first ingredient listed? You'll have to read Part 2 to find out!

Amanda K. Jones is a licensed veterinary technician and e-book author. She has had several articles published in professional veterinary journals and is a Tails, Inc. Magazine Furry Forum Expert.

If you're a pet owner interested in learning more about pet food ingredients or are looking for more information on basic pet food nutrition, you may be interested in Amanda's FREE 8-Week Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition. For more information or to sign-up please visit http://www.petfoodbible.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_K._Jones

Microchipping Your Pet

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By Matthew Homfray

There are several reasons to get your pet microchipped. The main reason is that without doing so, there is little chance of your pet being reunited with you if it is lost or stolen. While collar tags are effective if your pet gets accidentally lost, they are easily removed, can fall off and are no deterrent for a thief. Microchipping is also the compulsory first step when applying for a pet passport, for those owners who wish to take their pet abroad.

Dog Theft

You may have laughed at Ace Ventura Pet Detective, but there are few more traumatic experiences that having a pet stolen. With the police seemingly disinterested, it has been reported that only one in 10 owners whose dog has been stolen is even given a crime number. As a result, in desperation to retrieve their beloved pet they give in to ransom demands. And as long as the thieves get away with it, they will keep on doing it.

A microchip is not a tracking device, it does not allow you to pinpoint where your pet has been taken to. However, if your pet is sold by the thief, the buyer is quite likely to take him or her to a veterinary clinic at some point in the future. Theoretically, when registering a new client a veterinarian will check the animal for a microchip, and run this number against the national database. If the pet was reported stolen, this will automatically be flagged on the system, and the previous owner can be notified. Of course there is the danger that a vet will not bother to check the animals microchip, but there have been many occasions where pets and their rightful owners have been reunited in this way.

Outdoor Cats

Cats given the license to roam around outdoors, especially in urban areas, run the risk of being involved in road traffic accidents. If the cat is not killed on impact, its instinct will be to bolt and then hide somewhere in the vicinity of the incident. Often it is not the owner of the cat who brings the injured creature to the veterinary clinic, and there are numerous cases of cats injured in road traffic accidents having being reunited with their owners via their microchips.

Pet Passports

There are three steps to attaining a pet passport for your pet in accordance to the strictly regulated PETS travel scheme:

MicrochippingRabies vaccinationBlood test to check rabies vaccine was successful

What is the procedure?

A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice. It is injected under the skin in the scruff, on the back of the neck between the shoulder blades. It is quite a large needle, so can cause a sharp pain when inserted, though many animals do not even notice as there are so few nerves in the skin there. It can be done at any time, sedation is not usually necessary. However most vets prefer not to microchip puppies or kittens until they are at least 12 weeks old, or preferably when they are under anesthetic while being neutered.

Does it migrate around the body?

It should not move far from where it was injected. There have been rare reports of microchips migrating out of position, making them difficult to locate. However this is extremely rare, and scanners are very good at picking up the microchip signal when slowly moved over the back.

How does it work?

The chip contains a long number that is unique for that particular animal. When scanned by a handheld scanner (at a veterinary clinic, police station or animal shelter) the number comes up on the screen. This number can then be entered into a national database, which stores the name of the owner, the owners address, telephone numbers and email address.

Is it expensive?

Most veterinary clinics charge no more than US$ 50 (GBP £25) for inserting a microchip and completing all the necessary paperwork.

What if I move house?

Simply call the microchip company and change your details. Some companies provide you with a password and allow you to update your details online as and when necessary.


Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at http://www.WhyDoesMyPet.com Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Homfray

Dog and Cat Pet Food Recall - Menu Foods

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For more Recall Information Call 1-866-895-2708
Currently, this recall is only for "wet" foods. Those that are in cans or pouches:
Canned and foil pouch “wet” cat and dog food products manufactured by Menu Foods Inc.


List of Recalled Dog Foods

Americas Choice, Preferred Pets
Authority
Award
Best Choice
Big Bet
Big Red
Bloom
Wegmans Bruiser
Cadillac
Companion
Demoulas Market Basket
Eukanuba
Food Lion
Giant Companion
Great Choice
Hannaford
Hill Country Fare
Hy-Vee
Iams
Laura Lynn
Loving Meals
Meijers Main Choice
Mighty Dog Pouch
Mixables
Nutriplan
Nutro Max
Nutro Natural Choice
Nutro Ultra
Nutro
Ol'Roy Canada
Ol'Roy US
Paws
Pet Essentials
Pet Pride - Good n Meaty
Presidents Choice
Price Chopper
Priority
Publix
Roche Bros
Save-A-Lot
Schnucks
Shep Dog
Springsfield Prize
Sprout
Stater Bros
Weis Total Pet
Western Family
White Rose
Winn Dixie
Your Pet

Recalled Cat Foods

Americas Choice, Preferred Pets
Authority
Best Choice
Companion
Compliments
Demoulas Market Basket
Eukanuba
Fine Feline Cat
Food Lion
Foodtown
Giant Companion
Hannaford
Hill Country Fare
Hy-Vee
Iams
Laura Lynn
Li'l Red
Loving Meals
Meijer's Main Choice
Nutriplan
Nutro Max Gourmet Classics
Nutro Natural Choice
Paws
Pet Pride
Presidents Choice
Price Chopper
Priority
Save-A-Lot
Schnucks
Science Diet Feline Savory Cuts Cans
Sophistacat
Special Kitty Canada
Special Kitty US
Springfield Prize
Sprout
Weis Total Pet
Wegmans
Western Family
White Rose
Winn Dixie

Learn The Secrets About Ferrets Used For Avian Influenza

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By Rob Symonds

Ferrets used for avian influenza are in need of a tissue. Finally, scientists have found a way to test on animals by using ferret sneezes. Yes, they are making them sneeze. It is a very simple process for the ferrets, they put them to sleep and they run salt water up their noses. The result is a great big sneeze into a dish under their nose. This is important. The ferret snot is being used to study the avian influenza virus or “Bird Flu”. It seems that these little creatures can catch a few of the viruses that humans can. Mice do not have this ability and it makes the ferret sneeze very special.

Freeze Dried Sneeze

These secretions that are captured from a ferret are very secure. The Center For Disease Control takes this little mess seriously. There are precautions and security everywhere. You must wear full protective gear when being around it. This calls for double gloves, scrub gowns, eyewear, and even full air flow masks! You have to go through a fingerprint scan and iris scan just to gain access.

I wonder if the ferrets used for Avian Influenza have any idea how special they really are. Avian Influenza is serious and deadly to birds and humans and possibly mice and ferrets. That is why they are being studied. Scientists are trying to find a link between ferrets and mice carrying and transmitting the flu.

Some Findings

Since ferrets used for Avian influenza first started, a few findings have come to light. The ferrets are known for their ability to catch the same flu viruses that humans do. They are a perfect model. Ferrets used for Avian Influenza seem to not give the influenza to others very easy. As of right now, humans are safe from catching it from ferrets but, if a strain appears that can affect them, we are in serious trouble and need to watch out.

Little Helpers

Ferrets used for Avian Influenza research are our little helpers. They have what it takes in their sneezes to show scientists what amazing creatures they really are and how much like humans they are. All the major precautions are taken when handling the snot from the sneezes.

It can be deadly to the humans but, ferrets have a hard time giving it to others. Ferret mucous is taken in a painless not lethal way from the ferrets. They are put to sleep and made to sneeze with salt water up the nose. What an interesting life they must have. To know that every sneeze is locked away in a freezer and sits in a level 3 security zone is exciting. The excitement builds!

If you want to learn more where did ferrets come from please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with baby ferrets


If you want to learn more where did ferrets come from please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with baby ferrets
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rob_Symonds

The Cockapoo Is A Great Family Dog

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By Sandra Oberreuter

The Cockapoo is also known as cockerpoo, spoodle and cockerdoodle. They have been popular in the United States since the 1950’s.

The Cockapoo is what is known as a hybrid dog. They have the best qualities of the American Coker Spaniel and the Poodle (usually a minature or toy poodle). This, of course, is assuming these dogs are not bred from defective cockers or poodles.

Cocapoo’s are noted for their wonderful dispositions. These dogs are intelligent, sweet natured, affectionate and friendly. They have a forgiving nature that make them an ideal dog
for children. Their personality is unparalled in their ability to relate to people especially children. Therefore they make great family pets and even get along well with other dogs.

They have low shedding coats with very little dander which is the culprit in allergies people have to dogs. So they make a great choice for these people.

They are eager to please and easily trained.

Cockapoo’s have a lower incidence of gentic defects than their parental breeds. You do need to keep their ears clean because they are prone to ear infections.

They tend to live a long life….18-22 years.

They come in four sizes:


Teacup – under 6 pounds

Toy – under 12 pounds

Miniature – 13-18 pounds

Maxi/Standard – over 19 pounds


A cockapoo has a sturdy appearance. Their eyes are large, round, well spaced with an intelligent expression. Their eyes can be dark brown or hazel. Cars hang fairly close to their head and are feathered. Their tails can be docked or well featured and full coated if long.

The have three different coat types:


Tight curly coat

Medium curl coat

Flat coat


They come in many colors: any solid color, Parti color(solid with white), phaniton (brown, black, silver body with contrasting color on legs), tri-color, merle or roam.


Sandy has a web site on small dog breeds with information on different breeds, dogs good for children and seniors, hypoallergenic dogs, breeders, vets and much more. Visit at http://www.small-dogbreeds.com
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A Correct Diet is Vital for Rabbits

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By Matthew Homfray

Many people keep rabbits rather than dogs and cats because rabbits can be happily left at home alone all day while their owners are out at work. Though often happy on their own, they are by nature social creatures that enjoy the company of their owners and other animals in the household. They are best kept in pairs because they form strong bonds with each other. They will play with toys, seek out and follow humans, and enjoy being stroked. Most rabbits will use a litter tray and so can live indoors in the house, but they can sometimes be destructive.

A rabbits natural response to pain or distress is to sit quietly, preferably hidden from view. As a result, many diseases and causes of suffering can be easily overlooked. Though the life expectancy of a domestic rabbit is potentially 10-12 years, few make it to this age. The sad thing is, many of these diseases are preventable.

An incorrect diet can be the underlying cause to many health problems. Rabbits are strict herbivores that eat a variety of plants in the wild. Although they prefer grass and leaves, they can digest more fibrous foods and are able to survive on sparse vegetation. They do NOT need a high calorie diet, as their digestive system has evolved to use bacterial fermentation to break down fibre and form nutrients.

Their teeth are continually growing and being worn down, to cut and grind food before it enters the stomach. Any undigested food that reaches the colon is split into large and small particles, and sent in opposite directions. The small particles pass into the cecum, which is the fermentation chamber full of bacteria. These bacteria break down the particles to form volatile fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins and other nutrients. Large particles that are difficult to break down pass rapidly through the colon, are compressed, and are excreted as hard fecal pellets. Once or twice a day, the motility of the colon changes and the cecum (fermentation chamber) contracts to expel its contents as slightly larger, softer fecal pellets. These are known as cecotropes.

Rabbits eat these pellets of feces, the cecotropes. They are often consumed as they come out of the anus, and are a rich source of nutrients. If this cycle is broken, it disrupts the healthy bacteria that live in the rabbits digestive tract. In very young rabbits, this can cause death by enterotoxemia, i.e. overproduction of toxins by a population of bacteria that is unbalanced and out of control. It can take a while for a rabbit to achieve a stable healthy gut flora (bacterial population), hence why young rabbits are so susceptible.

So, what should I be feeding my rabbit? The best foods for rabbits are grass and wild plants as they are palatable, low in calories, high in fibre and wear the teeth down. Leafy green vegetables are very good, such as spinach, cabbage, kale and carrot tops. Remember that when a new food is introduced, it can cause a flurry of cecotropes, which must not be interpreted as diarrhea. On the contrary, it is perfectly normal and healthy!

Low calorie but high fibre foods are GOOD, high calorie but low fibre foods are BAD! Rabbits on a low fibre diet tend to produce softer cecotropes which can stick to the fur around the anus, especially if the fur is fluffy. If this same diet is high in calories, as many of the commercial ones often are, then the rabbit is more likely to be fat and unable to reach their anus to eat the cecotropes. The end result is that a foul smelling mass of matted fecal material accumulates under the tail which is unpleasant for both the rabbit and the owner. Moreover, the skin under the matted feces becomes sore and the smelly, moist area attracts flies. This then leads to flystrike, which is very distressing and often fatal.

Are teeth problems related to diet? Dental problems are possibly the commonest reason why vets see rabbits. There is universal agreement amongst experts that mixed muesli-type diets are at least partly responsible for these teeth problems. Although these types of rabbit food are cheap, tasty and convenient, they are totally unsuitable for rabbits. They are high in calories and low in fibre, and even if the manufacturer claims to have a balanced mixture of ingredients, many rabbits will cherry pick certain bits from the bowl. This means that certain tasty components such as peas or maize, which are very calcium deficient, are selectively eaten while less palatable ingredients are ignored.

The continual growth of the rabbits teeth is reliant on calcium intake, so when a rabbits diet is deficient, it draws the calcium from its bones instead. This disrupts the tooth structure and can lead to wonky teeth, abscesses, blocked tear ducts, osteoporosis and spinal problems. In addition, rabbits with poor teeth cannot groom themselves properly and so can get mite infestations, leading to scaling and itchy skin.

Poor teeth also make the rabbit unable to eat hay, so the proportion of fibre in the diet decreases and causes digestive problems, as discussed earlier. By and large, if a rabbit is eating large amounts of hay it is an indicator that it has healthy teeth.


Dr Matthew Homfray is part of the online veterinary team at WhyDoesMyPet.com. Visit us today to ask your pet question.
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Keep Pets Safe From Household Dangers

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By Ian White

Most responsible pet owners are aware that we must keep our cats and dogs from certain dangers in our home. We know that we need to keep them from chewing on electrical cords, from drinking toilet water that contains self-cleaning chemicals, to keep them away from antifreeze and other chemical products, and out from under the recliner. But our homes also present many other dangers to our feline and canine companions that we need to consider and take steps to prevent accidental poisoning or injury, possibly even death.

Paper Shredders

Most paper shredders have an on/off switch and automatic-feed buttons. The motors may become warm with use and cats are known to love warm places, and they will walk on anything. It offers the cat a cozy sleeping spot, and they may get their fur caught in the shredding teeth. There also have been reported cases of dogs getting their tongues caught in the shredder. Turn your paper shredder off when not in use, and never leave the auto-feed button on. Better yet, unplug the paper shredder until you need it.

Cat Litter

Avoid clumping cat litters, especially with kittens. Kittens have died after licking this litter off their paws. It will swell in their intestine, causing an obstruction. Deodorized cat litters have a chemical base. If your dog has the unfortunate habit of dining from the cat box, the litter can poison him. Stick with basic clay litters.

Washers and Dryers

Cats and kittens love warm, enclosed spots. Keep the lid closed on your washing machine when it is not in use, and make sure kittens aren’t snuggled up in the laundry basket before adding the load. When loading the dryer, keep an eye out that Fluffy doesn’t decide to jump in and get all cozy.

Wheelchairs

Pets can get caught in the wheel spokes whether chairs are in use or not. Store wheel chairs in a room or closet away from pets when not in use.

Wire Crates
Tags and collars can get caught in the bars. Be sure the floor fits properly and covers the bottom of the wire bars. The pet should have a well-fitted collar and the tags should not dangle down too far. If the pet will be left unattended in the crate, remove his collar when you leave and put it back on immediately when you let him out. Don’t put the collar on the top of the crate where he can get to it and chew on it.

Power Strips and Outlets

Put safety covers on any open outlets to keep your pet from licking the outlet or sticking a nail into it.

Home-Made Play Dough

Kids love play dough and pieces may fall off the table onto the floor. Home-made play dough has a high salt content and may cause salt poisoning in pets, which can be fatal.

Cigarettes and Tobacco Products

Nicotine can be fatal to dogs. Keep all cigarettes, pipes and tobacco, chewing tobacco, and all other tobacco products away from pets. Empty ashtrays often.

Plastic Food Wrap

Pets may ingest bits of plastic wrap when licking food residues off of them, and the bits can cause choking or an intestinal obstruction.

Floor Vents

Your pet’s tags or paws can get caught in the vents, pinning them to the hot surface. Cover all vents by wrapping them in layers of net and pushing the vent tightly into the floor. They may still catch a nail, but the net will help protect them burning their paws.

Rawhide

Dogs love to chew rawhide, but small bits may come off and lodge in the throat causing the animal to choke, or create an obstruction in the stomach or intestines. Rawhide chews may also harbor salmonella, infecting the dog and family members, and some unregulated manufacturers may use toxic chemical in the production of rawhide treats.

Toilets

Even if you don’t use continuous-cleaning products in your toilet, keep the lid closed or the bathroom door shut. Small curious pets may fall in head first and drown

Christmas Ornaments

They may look like toys to your pet. Broken shards of glass can cut your pet’s paws, and any ornament can cause a life-threatening emergency if shards are eaten. Tinsel and ribbon are cat magnets, and can cause intestinal obstructions if your cat ingests them.

Swimming Pools

Don’t allow your dog access to swimming pools without supervision. Most dogs can’t climb ladders. Put stair steps in your pool and train your dog how to get out.

Potpourri

Cats especially (and some dogs) may find your liquid potpourri tasty but it is caustic and will burn the linings of their esophagus or even poison them.

Doors

Heavy doors can swing shut quickly on a small puppy or cat and crush them, or injure the paws or tails of larger dogs.

Trash Cans

Dogs love to rummage through the trash can, but there is much kitchen and household waste that can injure your dog or make him ill, even poison him. Seed and pits from apples, apricots, cherries, and plums contain a chemical that can cause cyanide poisoning. Onions and garlic can cause anemia in dogs. Coffee grounds and tea bags contain caffeine and tannin which are toxic to dogs. Cat love string, rubber bands, ribbon, and yarn, which can cause intestinal obstructions if swallowed. Pop bottle lids and bread tags are choking hazards. The edges of food cans and lids removed with a can opener can cause severe cuts to the tongue if they try to lick the rest of the food out, or cut their paws if they step on them. Keep the trash can covered with a tight-fitting lid or keep it under a counter with a child-safe door latch (smart pets can open doors that don’t latch!).

Toys

Your children’s’ plastic toys that have small pieces that can be removed, and stuffed toys with eyes that can be chewed off are all potential choking hazards to your pet as well. When buying toys for your pet, be sure they are well made with any parts that can’t come off. When toys start to wear or become chewed, or the stuffing starts to come out, throw them away and replace them.

Avoid tragedy by pet-proofing your home. Treat your dog or cat as if it were a curious child, ready to get into everything. Take steps to protect them from their own inquisitive nature, and have pet-safe toys for them to play with to keep them entertained and out of mischief.

Copyright © 2007, Ian White Acess 2000 Pty Ltd


Author Ian White is founder of pet-sitters.biz Pet Sitting Services Directory
See if pet sitting is a solution for you when you go away.
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Ferret Disease And Illness

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By Lee Dobbins

Some people look at me like I’m crazy when I say “I love my ferret”, but I do, and they can think what they want. My little guy brings me hours of enjoyment and sunshine to my gray days. The last thing in the world I want is for him to get sick, yet it’s a fact of life and in order to offer the best care (and quality of life), you have to keep an eye on what’s going on in their ferret worlds.

FERRET CARE NOTE: If you suspect your ferret is sick, take him to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Do not try to treat him at home.

What I’m going to discuss below isn’t fun, I’d much rather be writing about their fun, frolicking ways, but to ensure those lovable characteristics continue, keep an eye on your ferret’s health. Like most medical problems, if you catch them early, your veterinarian will have the best chance at a successful remedy.

FERRET FACTS:

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Sub-Phylum: Vertibrata

Class: Mamalia

Sub-Class: Eutheria

Order: Carnivora

Family: Mustelidae

Sub-Family: Mustelinae

Genus: Mustela

Species: Mustela Putorius Furo


Ferrets are susceptible to multiple diseases, and depending on their lineage, they could adrenal gland disease, pancreatic tumors, lymphosarcoma or heart disease. And here’s something I only found out recently, ferrets can catch a human cold. No one likes a cold, but with bed rest and some TLC (tender loving care) you’ll soon be good as new, not so with your ferret. Ferrets have weak immune systems and if they were to catch your cold; it could prove fatal. If you’re sick, refrain from handling your ferret till you’re better.

Ask yourself this question, “Do you like extremes of heat and cold?” No..., well neither does your ferret; they have a low tolerance to extremes of heat or cold, so keep them in an area where temperatures stay consistent. I’m sure it’s common sense that you MUST keep fresh water available at all times, the little fellas can easily become dehydrated which can lead to a score of ferret medical problems.

FERRET FACT; Ferrets do not tolerate temperatures above 85 degrees well and may become lethargic.

Recently we had some friends over and grilled some big juicy steaks. So what you say... I didn’t invite you? Sorry about that, I only mention steaks to remind you that ferrets need a high protein diet and snack pretty much constantly throughout the day. That coupled with an active (to say it mildly) digestive system, and you need to keep their food bowl food, and litter box clean and free from waste.

Do you like to give your ferret treats? Don’t worry, I’m guilty too, but do it in moderation and NEVER give them chocolate or sugary treats, keeping it to meat, grains and small bits of fruit will help them lead a disease free life. Oh... and before I forget, “milk... does a body right” does NOT apply to ferrets, they are lactose intolerant.

While we may not be able to prevent disease in our ferret friends, we can provide them a loving, safe and clean environment, ensuring a healthy, fun and frolicking life.


Lee Dobbins write for ePet Pet Center where you can learn more about caring for all different types of pets including pet ferrets.
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The Irish Wolfhound - Easygoing and Soft-natured Giant

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By Carol Stack

Although not for the faint of heart, Irish Wolfhounds are strong, muscular, beautiful dogs that are usually even tempered and friendly. Originally they were used in Ireland to hunt wolves and Irish elk. But today they are a favorite among dog enthusiasts for their gentle disposition and commanding appearance.

The temperament of this dog breed is soft-natured and easygoing. They are calm around the house and patient. These qualities make them a good dog with children, pets, and other dogs.

History of the Breed

The Irish Wolfhounds in their earliest form were actually dogs that went to war and were trained to kill men and beasts. They were also used as guard dogs and as hunting dogs early on as well.

It is believed that their history has been long, perhaps even reaching all the way back to the first century BC. During the 19th century, when it became popular to give a number of these dogs as gifts to foreign royalty and as the wolf became extinct in Ireland, they almost became extinct.

Thankfully, Captain Graham began to breed Irish Wolfhounds with other breeds, such as Great Danes and Deerhounds, to keep the breed from dying out. This interbreeding led to variations in color and in a mellowing of the temperament as well.

Characteristics of Irish Wolfhounds

Although in history these dogs were used as war dogs and guard dogs, the Irish Wolfhound today does not make a great guard dog. While they do have a penchant to hunt, these dogs love people and require a great deal of interaction with the family.

The Irish Wolfhound is actually the tallest hound in the entire world and they are a stately and proud dog. Their coats feel rather rough to the touch, and they come in a variety of different colors, including brindle, pure white, red, brown, black, gray, and fawn.

They typically live to be about seven, although there are dogs that live to be as old as ten. Increasing numbers of breeders, however, are now selecting for longevity and this will hopefully increase the lifespan of the Irish Wolfhound in the future.

What Irish Wolfhounds Need

If you decide that you want to own an Irish Wolfhound, it is important that you take into consideration the special needs of these dogs and take care of them properly to promote the best health possible. They need plenty of room to stretch out and a daily long walk.

Irish Wolfhounds need to be with people and need plenty of interaction, so before you purchase one, you need to be sure that you have the time to properly take care of your dog.

It is important that you train your Irish Wolfhound well or he may get out of hand. Starting to train from the time your dog is a puppy will help you avoid problems later in the dog's life.

Having an Irish Wolfhound can bring a great deal of joy and pleasure to your life and these dogs make wonderful companions. If you are ready to invest some time in a dog, take care of a dog properly, and you want a dog that will keep you company, you may want to consider having an Irish Wolfhound as a pet.


Carol Stack enjoys writing articles, especially about dogs. She lives with her husband, children, four dogs and seven cats in the United States. Carol and her daughter Christy are working on a web site that focuses on dog breeds, dog care, and dog training. You can visit it at http://www.christysdogportal.com
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