the Pet Reference Center

About Lizards - The Leopard Gecko as a Pet

2007-05-25T09:50:00.000-04:00

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By Jon Beebe

Leopard Geckos serve as great household pets, for older children to adults. Leopard Geckos are among the most common lizards chosen as household pets because of their small size, they are easy to care for, they are very clean for a terrarium pet (their droppings habits are similar to that of a cat - they choose a main corner to lay their feces), they have an average lifespan of 19 - 22 years (longest recorded lifespan for a Leopard Gecko is 27 years), they have interesting wide-range of colors, and they can grow very tolerant to being handled. However, children should be monitored while handling Leopard Geckos because if they are under extreme stress or fear, their tails tend to fall off.

Another good reason why Leopard Geckos as pets are a good idea is because of the fact that Leopard Geckos are very easily found available at pet stores. Just like buying a dog, you can decide to buy a Leopard Gecko today, and find a perfect one to take home with you in less than an hour (of course, that's depending on how long it takes you to get to your local pet store). For those that are hesitant about keeping wild-caught animals as pets (for example, the common blue-bellied lizard that you used to catch when you were a small child), rest assured that Leopard Geckos are one of the few lizard species that are regularly bred in captivity, for the purpose of selling as pets. As an entire package, Leopard Geckos are comparatively cheap when you look at all your getting. Leopard Geckos are beautiful lizards that come in all kinds of different colors, breeds, and design patterns; they are very tolerant to being handled, are relatively non-aggressive (I'll get to the relatively part soon); they are very clean for any kind of pet, not just lizards and reptiles; they are very easy to breed (given the proper instruction). Leopard Geckos (depending on their rarity and sometimes age) are very cheap in contrast to other reptiles that may not have all the same good qualities as Leopard Geckos.

So do Leopard Geckos bite, you ask? The reason why I said Leopard Geckos are relatively non-aggressive earlier is because I have had cases where baby Leopard Geckos would bite my fingers when I attempted to hold them, because they were not used to it. Did it hurt? Absolutely not. Leopard Geckos are toothless, very small in size, and just don't have enough power to really hurt a human being; regardless if it's a baby or an adult. That being said, I wouldn't encourage any kind of animal to bite another human being, especially small child who's fingers aren't as strong as a grown adult's.

To conclude this article, I'll end with the note that Leopard Geckos make great pets, and even if they weren't so low-cost, they would definitely still be my first choice as a reptile/lizard pet.

J. Beebe is a reptile owner and has owned and studied them for years. He specializes in Leopard Geckos and runs an information website called:

The Leopard Gecko Resource (http://www.geckosleopard.com/)
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_Beebe

Separation Anxiety In Dogs: The Signs

2007-05-19T10:50:00.000-04:00

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Does your dog have separation anxiety? Here are the tell-tale signs...

If your dog shadows your every movement around the house when you’re there, and sleeps on or near your bed, and IF it has trouble doing any different, it may have separation anxiety. Any destructive behavior will occur about 20 minutes to a half hour after you leave, so another way to figure it out is to plan on returning after that time on a few occasions. A dog with separation anxiety will not likely tolerate even being left in a separate room from you with a door closed between you.

Also the things they chew or destroy are most often “escape routes,” such as doors or windows (they believe may lead them directly to you). Also, they may munch items that they associate with you by smell. Although it can seem like a vindictive reaction, I assure you it’s usually more a nervous one.

If you return home to find that your dog pees or poops in a number of different locations in the house, AND they do not appear guilty about it when you return home, they may be manifesting their separation anxiety. The dog in question may be beyond the house training stage, and the fact of the different accident locations is a sign that they are not continually returning to a scent “marked” location and confusing it with an appropriate place to go.

A dog that barks or whines continually when you are away is also admitting – to your neighbors if not to you – that they have a bad case of separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems dogs develop, and is an unsurprising result of our practice of domesticating them. They are social animals, and they crave a pack environment. The good news is there are simple and proven solutions.

About the Author:Martin Olliver is a member of the Kingdom of Pets team. For more great articles on dog training, including "Separation Anxiety: some Solutions," visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/separation_anxiety_in_dogs.php. Read more articles by: Martin Olliver Article Source: www.iSnare.com

Cat Behavior Problem And How You Can Solve It

2007-05-11T10:05:00.000-04:00

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By Mikee Dunn

As a loving and caring cat owner, it concerned me when I found out that my precious kitty had a cat behavior problem. She had a lot of issues and we’ve worked out most of them. Here are just a few examples of what was wrong with her, and how we fixed it.

My cat suffered from the cat behavior problem of aggression. She would sometimes attack me as we played or while I was petting her. I couldn’t understand why. A veterinarian told me that cats take playing too seriously and may become overly aggressive. Once the cat’s ears get pinned back and the tail swings stiffer than usual, you know that play time should end before scratches begin. The reason for aggression during petting is unknown, but a common question among owners. The best way to stop this is to pet the cat with treats next to you. When the cat seems to stiffen up or moves around more, give her a treat and she’ll calm down. Eventually, the cat will be able to sit in your lap as long as you want without treats.

Another huge cat behavior problem that mine had was the constant meowing and purring. I read up a little and found out that some cats that do it constantly may be sick so I took her to the doctor. The check up went fine, but the veterinarian said I simply had a talkative cat. The only cure for that is ignoring her when she purrs, whereas I used to go and pick her up, adding fuel to the fire. Then after a little bit of ignoring, she finally calmed down…only to have long, loud spurts of purring. I would run into the room and see her sitting by the back door. Since I don’t ever let her out, I looked for a solution to this as well. Of all the things I tried, the one that worked the best was opening the curtains for her. Whenever I leave for work, I open the curtains and she just stares outside for hours. After I get home, there are no more loud moans to be let out!

As you can see, a cat behavior problem is very common and also very treatable with just a little bit of elbow grease. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a person who had a kitty too tough for them to handle…and I don’t intend to start now!

If you want more information on a cat behavior problem of your own, go to http://www.squidoo.com/catbehaviorproblem/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mikee_Dunn

Post Hibernation Anorexia (PHA) in Tortoises

2007-05-07T09:41:00.000-04:00

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By Matthew Homfray

Post hibernation anorexia (PHA) is a very common problem in pet tortoises at this time of the year, and can be frustrating to treat. Prevention is much preferable to treatment, and with the correct husbandry, dietary practices and hibernation preparation, this is easily achievable.

Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.

What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?

PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).

Why does PHA happen?

The main reasons for PHA occurring are:

The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.The hibernation lasted too long.

A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.

Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.

The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.

The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.

The owner responsibilities

When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.

If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.

A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.

MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA

Excessive duration of hibernation period

Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter. Low white blood cell count This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.

Disease or injury during hibernation Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.

Poor post hibernation management This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.

Undetected long term diseases Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.

Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at http://www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Homfray

Keep Your Pet Safe In The Sun

2007-04-30T16:04:00.000-04:00

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By Leigh Adams

With warm weather upon us, it's a great time of year for your pet too! Swimming, sunning and just hanging around outdoors can be an excellent time for you and your pet to bond. However, things such as heat, bugs, allergies and general protection must all be taken into consideration.

Never, ever leave your pet in your car for any period of time whatsoever. Cars can reach dangerous temperatures in a matter of minutes. Dogs cannot sweat the same way as humans. They regulate their temperature (barely) through the bottoms of their feet and by panting. Heat stroke can affect a dog rapidly; just as it can a child or elderly person. Obese pets are also more susceptible to heat stroke. Here are some signs to look for: excessive salivating, panting, unusual hyper excitement and increased rectal temperature. If you suspect heat stroke, immediately seek medical attention.

If you and your dog are outdoors, make certain he has access to water and shade. Collapsible water bowls or dog hydration systems are excellent for insuring your pet has water. There are many types of portable dog bowls. There are collapsible bowls and no spill bowls that dual as a container for your pet's food. If you bring your dog on long excursions, consider a portable water pack. Water packs are made from durable nylon and are constructed like a harness for big dogs. There are many products on the market today that may help cool your pet in warm weather. Try a cool dog bed for him to lounge on while outdoors. Mats such as these are so versatile; they even insulate dogs from cold floors in the winter! Water-activated crystals keep the mat cool for days with one 30-minute soaking in cold water. Portable pet tents are even available these days to protect your dog from the sun!!

Your pet will love being outside after being cooped up all winter, but just follow some simple safety guidelines listed above. Both, you and your pet will be much happier

Leigh Adams is an avid dog owner and trainer. She is a frequent contributor to this Online Pet Supply Store. When not outside with her dogs Mimmi and SoSo, she enjoys painting and raising Koi fish in her backyard pond.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Leigh_Adams

Commercial Dog Food Myth Busters-The First Ingredient (Part 2)

2007-04-06T09:58:00.000-04:00

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By Amanda K. Jones

In Part 1 we talked about some of the tricks that pet manufacturers use to make their products look more appealing to consumers. After all, protein should make up the majority of the dog's diet, right? We don't want any of those nasty carbohydrate fillers do we? Do we???

Nutritional Common Sense

If you think about it, the dog’s diet must add up to be 100%. There are five nutrients to take into consideration here (not including water): protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins.

According to accredited veterinary nutritionists, the average adult neutered house dog only needs about 20% protein, 15% fat, and all the necessary vitamins and minerals can fit into 5% of the diet. So what makes up the remaining 60%?

It only makes sense that if the diet is formulated properly and the list ACCURATELY reflects the relative weight of the ingredients, low calorie carbohydrates should make up the balance of the diet. Therefore, the list should have a grain as the first ingredient.

Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, accredited veterinary nutritionist, and staff nutritionist at the Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston, MA, states, “If a diet has the proper protein to calorie ratio and is properly formulated for the average adult dog, the meat source would not be first in the list.”

Despite this, many self-proclaimed pet food experts will try to tell you that carbohydrates are nothing but junk. While there is no minimum dietary requirement for carbohydrates in pet foods, the body does have a minimum glucose requirement to supply energy for critical organs such as the brain. In addition, most cells use glucose as their primary fuel.

Have you ever seen an animal or person who is hypoglycemic (lacking glucose)? Scary!

This glucose CAN come from protein or fats. However, the liver must manufacture the glucose from these sources in order to dump the nitrogen. Carbohydrates don’t contain nitrogen and don’t need to be metabolized by the liver and excreted by the kidneys. This makes carbohydrates an extremely important energy source because they basically allow the body to do less work.

According to Dr. Remillard, "Some pet foods do contain very little or no carbohydrates but overfeed protein and fat. This would most likely be no problem for the feral dog or cat not expected to live past 2-3 years of age. I suggest this is not the ideal diet when one expects your pet to live 10-20 years. It's much like smoking in people--rarely are the effects noted before 20 or 30 years--so it seems OK at first.

I find it interesting when pet owners are concerned about the large carbohydrate fraction comprising pet foods but think feeding vegetables and fruit is more 'healthy' and/or 'natural'. These same pet owners fail to realize that vegetables and fruits are primarily comprised of water and carbohydrates in the form of sugar, starch and fiber. You cannot get away from those carbohydrates."

It's OK--you don't have to avoid a pet food just because it has a carbohydrate listed as the first ingredient.

Also keep in mind that the ingredient list in general cannot and should not be used as a way to assess the "quality" of a pet food. There are just too many factors to consider. We only wish it was so simple. While the list of ingredients may be helpful, it has certain shortcomings that limit its usefulness for evaluating the nutritive value of pet foods.

For better or worse, the consumer must rely on the reputation or word of the manufacturer to assess the nutritive value and safety of the ingredients appearing on the list. If you have any questions about your pet's food just pick up the phone. All you have to do is look a little past the ingredient list to find the toll-free number.

They're waiting for your call!

Amanda K. Jones is a licensed veterinary technician and e-book author. She has had several articles published in professional veterinary journals and is a Tails, Inc. Magazine Furry Forum Expert.

If you're a pet owner interested in learning more about pet food ingredients, or are looking for more information on basic pet food nutrition, you may be interested in Amanda's FREE 8-Week Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition. For more information or to sign-up please visit http://www.petfoodbible.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_K._Jones

Commercial Dog Food Myth Busters - The First Ingredient (Part 1)

2007-04-06T09:56:00.000-04:00

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By Amanda K. Jones

The ingredient list is of special interest to dog owners. Many look at the first ingredient and if it’s not a protein source like “beef” or “chicken” they assume that the food is “low-quality.”

They do this because it’s exactly what some pet food marketers and self-proclaimed pet food experts have taught them to do, even though it goes against all nutritional common sense.

In fact, one popular pet publication teaches dog owners how to select “quality” pet foods by comparing ingredient lists.

However, when tested, 23 out of 24 “Top Dry Dog Foods” had levels of calcium that exceeded the maximum recommended level for an adult dog and 19 out of 24 “Top Dry Dog Foods” had levels of phosphorus that exceeded the maximum level for an adult dog.

When these and other nutrients are supplied in excess for an extended period of time they could potentially initiate or complicate certain medical conditions. These conditions include obesity, bladder stones, kidney failure, skeletal disease, heart failure, hypertension, and skin disease.

Rebecca Remillard, PhD, DVM, accredited veterinary nutritionist, and staff nutritionist at the Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston, MA, offers some advice for pet owners.

She says, “I use the placement of the meat source in the list of ingredients as an indication of whether the diet is formulated correctly and that the ingredient list has not been ‘rigged’ to meet current consumer thinking. Current consumer rhetoric about ‘fillers’ and that ‘meat’ should be first in the list is nutritionally erroneous. The logic is flawed.”

The Ingredient List Game

So, pet food manufacturers know that the consumer wants to see a real “meat” source listed as the first ingredient (we’ll talk about by-products and meat-meal some other time). Because there are loop holes in the regulations associated with pet food labels, pet food manufacturers can manipulate the list to make it appear more “appealing” to consumers. Some people associated with pet nutrition refer to this as “the ingredient list game.”

Ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. A protein source like “beef” or “chicken” will appear first in the list of ingredients because the water weight of the protein source simply outweighs the other ingredients. (Whole meat is very high in moisture and actually contains about 75% water.) So in some cases, the first ingredient may contribute a ton of water to the diet and very little nutrition.

Manufacturers can also list several different forms of the same ingredient separately to make certain ingredients appear lower in the list. For example, to make wheat-based ingredients appear lower on the list, they can be listed individually as wheat bran, wheat flour, wheat germ meal, etc.

Veterinary nutritionists do recommend that an animal protein source should be in the first 3 ingredients listed for commercial dog food.

So what should be the first ingredient listed? You'll have to read Part 2 to find out!

Amanda K. Jones is a licensed veterinary technician and e-book author. She has had several articles published in professional veterinary journals and is a Tails, Inc. Magazine Furry Forum Expert.

If you're a pet owner interested in learning more about pet food ingredients or are looking for more information on basic pet food nutrition, you may be interested in Amanda's FREE 8-Week Course on Dog and Cat Nutrition. For more information or to sign-up please visit http://www.petfoodbible.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_K._Jones

Microchipping Your Pet

2007-03-27T10:44:00.000-04:00

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By Matthew Homfray

There are several reasons to get your pet microchipped. The main reason is that without doing so, there is little chance of your pet being reunited with you if it is lost or stolen. While collar tags are effective if your pet gets accidentally lost, they are easily removed, can fall off and are no deterrent for a thief. Microchipping is also the compulsory first step when applying for a pet passport, for those owners who wish to take their pet abroad.

Dog Theft

You may have laughed at Ace Ventura Pet Detective, but there are few more traumatic experiences that having a pet stolen. With the police seemingly disinterested, it has been reported that only one in 10 owners whose dog has been stolen is even given a crime number. As a result, in desperation to retrieve their beloved pet they give in to ransom demands. And as long as the thieves get away with it, they will keep on doing it.

A microchip is not a tracking device, it does not allow you to pinpoint where your pet has been taken to. However, if your pet is sold by the thief, the buyer is quite likely to take him or her to a veterinary clinic at some point in the future. Theoretically, when registering a new client a veterinarian will check the animal for a microchip, and run this number against the national database. If the pet was reported stolen, this will automatically be flagged on the system, and the previous owner can be notified. Of course there is the danger that a vet will not bother to check the animals microchip, but there have been many occasions where pets and their rightful owners have been reunited in this way.

Outdoor Cats

Cats given the license to roam around outdoors, especially in urban areas, run the risk of being involved in road traffic accidents. If the cat is not killed on impact, its instinct will be to bolt and then hide somewhere in the vicinity of the incident. Often it is not the owner of the cat who brings the injured creature to the veterinary clinic, and there are numerous cases of cats injured in road traffic accidents having being reunited with their owners via their microchips.

Pet Passports

There are three steps to attaining a pet passport for your pet in accordance to the strictly regulated PETS travel scheme:

MicrochippingRabies vaccinationBlood test to check rabies vaccine was successful

What is the procedure?

A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice. It is injected under the skin in the scruff, on the back of the neck between the shoulder blades. It is quite a large needle, so can cause a sharp pain when inserted, though many animals do not even notice as there are so few nerves in the skin there. It can be done at any time, sedation is not usually necessary. However most vets prefer not to microchip puppies or kittens until they are at least 12 weeks old, or preferably when they are under anesthetic while being neutered.

Does it migrate around the body?

It should not move far from where it was injected. There have been rare reports of microchips migrating out of position, making them difficult to locate. However this is extremely rare, and scanners are very good at picking up the microchip signal when slowly moved over the back.

How does it work?

The chip contains a long number that is unique for that particular animal. When scanned by a handheld scanner (at a veterinary clinic, police station or animal shelter) the number comes up on the screen. This number can then be entered into a national database, which stores the name of the owner, the owners address, telephone numbers and email address.

Is it expensive?

Most veterinary clinics charge no more than US$ 50 (GBP £25) for inserting a microchip and completing all the necessary paperwork.

What if I move house?

Simply call the microchip company and change your details. Some companies provide you with a password and allow you to update your details online as and when necessary.

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at http://www.WhyDoesMyPet.com Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Homfray

Dog and Cat Pet Food Recall - Menu Foods

2007-03-19T15:38:00.000-04:00

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For more Recall Information Call 1-866-895-2708
Currently, this recall is only for "wet" foods. Those that are in cans or pouches:
Canned and foil pouch “wet” cat and dog food products manufactured by Menu Foods Inc.

List of Recalled Dog Foods

Americas Choice, Preferred Pets
Authority
Award
Best Choice
Big Bet
Big Red
Bloom
Wegmans Bruiser
Cadillac
Companion
Demoulas Market Basket
Eukanuba
Food Lion
Giant Companion
Great Choice
Hannaford
Hill Country Fare
Hy-Vee
Iams
Laura Lynn
Loving Meals
Meijers Main Choice
Mighty Dog Pouch
Mixables
Nutriplan
Nutro Max
Nutro Natural Choice
Nutro Ultra
Nutro
Ol'Roy Canada
Ol'Roy US
Paws
Pet Essentials
Pet Pride - Good n Meaty
Presidents Choice
Price Chopper
Priority
Publix
Roche Bros
Save-A-Lot
Schnucks
Shep Dog
Springsfield Prize
Sprout
Stater Bros
Weis Total Pet
Western Family
White Rose
Winn Dixie
Your Pet

Recalled Cat Foods

Americas Choice, Preferred Pets
Authority
Best Choice
Companion
Compliments
Demoulas Market Basket
Eukanuba
Fine Feline Cat
Food Lion
Foodtown
Giant Companion
Hannaford
Hill Country Fare
Hy-Vee
Iams
Laura Lynn
Li'l Red
Loving Meals
Meijer's Main Choice
Nutriplan
Nutro Max Gourmet Classics
Nutro Natural Choice
Paws
Pet Pride
Presidents Choice
Price Chopper
Priority
Save-A-Lot
Schnucks
Science Diet Feline Savory Cuts Cans
Sophistacat
Special Kitty Canada
Special Kitty US
Springfield Prize
Sprout
Weis Total Pet
Wegmans
Western Family
White Rose
Winn Dixie

Learn The Secrets About Ferrets Used For Avian Influenza

2007-03-08T10:52:00.000-05:00

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By Rob Symonds

Ferrets used for avian influenza are in need of a tissue. Finally, scientists have found a way to test on animals by using ferret sneezes. Yes, they are making them sneeze. It is a very simple process for the ferrets, they put them to sleep and they run salt water up their noses. The result is a great big sneeze into a dish under their nose. This is important. The ferret snot is being used to study the avian influenza virus or “Bird Flu”. It seems that these little creatures can catch a few of the viruses that humans can. Mice do not have this ability and it makes the ferret sneeze very special.

Freeze Dried Sneeze

These secretions that are captured from a ferret are very secure. The Center For Disease Control takes this little mess seriously. There are precautions and security everywhere. You must wear full protective gear when being around it. This calls for double gloves, scrub gowns, eyewear, and even full air flow masks! You have to go through a fingerprint scan and iris scan just to gain access.

I wonder if the ferrets used for Avian Influenza have any idea how special they really are. Avian Influenza is serious and deadly to birds and humans and possibly mice and ferrets. That is why they are being studied. Scientists are trying to find a link between ferrets and mice carrying and transmitting the flu.

Some Findings

Since ferrets used for Avian influenza first started, a few findings have come to light. The ferrets are known for their ability to catch the same flu viruses that humans do. They are a perfect model. Ferrets used for Avian Influenza seem to not give the influenza to others very easy. As of right now, humans are safe from catching it from ferrets but, if a strain appears that can affect them, we are in serious trouble and need to watch out.

Little Helpers

Ferrets used for Avian Influenza research are our little helpers. They have what it takes in their sneezes to show scientists what amazing creatures they really are and how much like humans they are. All the major precautions are taken when handling the snot from the sneezes.

It can be deadly to the humans but, ferrets have a hard time giving it to others. Ferret mucous is taken in a painless not lethal way from the ferrets. They are put to sleep and made to sneeze with salt water up the nose. What an interesting life they must have. To know that every sneeze is locked away in a freezer and sits in a level 3 security zone is exciting. The excitement builds!

If you want to learn more where did ferrets come from please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with baby ferrets

If you want to learn more where did ferrets come from please visit our site which is free to the public. You'll find the best tips on everything to do with baby ferrets
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rob_Symonds

The Cockapoo Is A Great Family Dog

2007-03-06T09:37:00.000-05:00

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By Sandra Oberreuter

The Cockapoo is also known as cockerpoo, spoodle and cockerdoodle. They have been popular in the United States since the 1950’s.

The Cockapoo is what is known as a hybrid dog. They have the best qualities of the American Coker Spaniel and the Poodle (usually a minature or toy poodle). This, of course, is assuming these dogs are not bred from defective cockers or poodles.

Cocapoo’s are noted for their wonderful dispositions. These dogs are intelligent, sweet natured, affectionate and friendly. They have a forgiving nature that make them an ideal dog
for children. Their personality is unparalled in their ability to relate to people especially children. Therefore they make great family pets and even get along well with other dogs.

They have low shedding coats with very little dander which is the culprit in allergies people have to dogs. So they make a great choice for these people.

They are eager to please and easily trained.

Cockapoo’s have a lower incidence of gentic defects than their parental breeds. You do need to keep their ears clean because they are prone to ear infections.

They tend to live a long life….18-22 years.

They come in four sizes:

Teacup – under 6 pounds

Toy – under 12 pounds

Miniature – 13-18 pounds

Maxi/Standard – over 19 pounds

A cockapoo has a sturdy appearance. Their eyes are large, round, well spaced with an intelligent expression. Their eyes can be dark brown or hazel. Cars hang fairly close to their head and are feathered. Their tails can be docked or well featured and full coated if long.

The have three different coat types:

Tight curly coat

Medium curl coat

Flat coat

They come in many colors: any solid color, Parti color(solid with white), phaniton (brown, black, silver body with contrasting color on legs), tri-color, merle or roam.

Sandy has a web site on small dog breeds with information on different breeds, dogs good for children and seniors, hypoallergenic dogs, breeders, vets and much more. Visit at http://www.small-dogbreeds.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sandra_Oberreuter

A Correct Diet is Vital for Rabbits

2007-03-02T10:03:00.000-05:00

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By Matthew Homfray

Many people keep rabbits rather than dogs and cats because rabbits can be happily left at home alone all day while their owners are out at work. Though often happy on their own, they are by nature social creatures that enjoy the company of their owners and other animals in the household. They are best kept in pairs because they form strong bonds with each other. They will play with toys, seek out and follow humans, and enjoy being stroked. Most rabbits will use a litter tray and so can live indoors in the house, but they can sometimes be destructive.

A rabbits natural response to pain or distress is to sit quietly, preferably hidden from view. As a result, many diseases and causes of suffering can be easily overlooked. Though the life expectancy of a domestic rabbit is potentially 10-12 years, few make it to this age. The sad thing is, many of these diseases are preventable.

An incorrect diet can be the underlying cause to many health problems. Rabbits are strict herbivores that eat a variety of plants in the wild. Although they prefer grass and leaves, they can digest more fibrous foods and are able to survive on sparse vegetation. They do NOT need a high calorie diet, as their digestive system has evolved to use bacterial fermentation to break down fibre and form nutrients.

Their teeth are continually growing and being worn down, to cut and grind food before it enters the stomach. Any undigested food that reaches the colon is split into large and small particles, and sent in opposite directions. The small particles pass into the cecum, which is the fermentation chamber full of bacteria. These bacteria break down the particles to form volatile fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins and other nutrients. Large particles that are difficult to break down pass rapidly through the colon, are compressed, and are excreted as hard fecal pellets. Once or twice a day, the motility of the colon changes and the cecum (fermentation chamber) contracts to expel its contents as slightly larger, softer fecal pellets. These are known as cecotropes.

Rabbits eat these pellets of feces, the cecotropes. They are often consumed as they come out of the anus, and are a rich source of nutrients. If this cycle is broken, it disrupts the healthy bacteria that live in the rabbits digestive tract. In very young rabbits, this can cause death by enterotoxemia, i.e. overproduction of toxins by a population of bacteria that is unbalanced and out of control. It can take a while for a rabbit to achieve a stable healthy gut flora (bacterial population), hence why young rabbits are so susceptible.

So, what should I be feeding my rabbit? The best foods for rabbits are grass and wild plants as they are palatable, low in calories, high in fibre and wear the teeth down. Leafy green vegetables are very good, such as spinach, cabbage, kale and carrot tops. Remember that when a new food is introduced, it can cause a flurry of cecotropes, which must not be interpreted as diarrhea. On the contrary, it is perfectly normal and healthy!

Low calorie but high fibre foods are GOOD, high calorie but low fibre foods are BAD! Rabbits on a low fibre diet tend to produce softer cecotropes which can stick to the fur around the anus, especially if the fur is fluffy. If this same diet is high in calories, as many of the commercial ones often are, then the rabbit is more likely to be fat and unable to reach their anus to eat the cecotropes. The end result is that a foul smelling mass of matted fecal material accumulates under the tail which is unpleasant for both the rabbit and the owner. Moreover, the skin under the matted feces becomes sore and the smelly, moist area attracts flies. This then leads to flystrike, which is very distressing and often fatal.

Are teeth problems related to diet? Dental problems are possibly the commonest reason why vets see rabbits. There is universal agreement amongst experts that mixed muesli-type diets are at least partly responsible for these teeth problems. Although these types of rabbit food are cheap, tasty and convenient, they are totally unsuitable for rabbits. They are high in calories and low in fibre, and even if the manufacturer claims to have a balanced mixture of ingredients, many rabbits will cherry pick certain bits from the bowl. This means that certain tasty components such as peas or maize, which are very calcium deficient, are selectively eaten while less palatable ingredients are ignored.

The continual growth of the rabbits teeth is reliant on calcium intake, so when a rabbits diet is deficient, it draws the calcium from its bones instead. This disrupts the tooth structure and can lead to wonky teeth, abscesses, blocked tear ducts, osteoporosis and spinal problems. In addition, rabbits with poor teeth cannot groom themselves properly and so can get mite infestations, leading to scaling and itchy skin.

Poor teeth also make the rabbit unable to eat hay, so the proportion of fibre in the diet decreases and causes digestive problems, as discussed earlier. By and large, if a rabbit is eating large amounts of hay it is an indicator that it has healthy teeth.

Dr Matthew Homfray is part of the online veterinary team at WhyDoesMyPet.com. Visit us today to ask your pet question.
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Keep Pets Safe From Household Dangers

2007-02-28T09:58:00.000-05:00

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By Ian White

Most responsible pet owners are aware that we must keep our cats and dogs from certain dangers in our home. We know that we need to keep them from chewing on electrical cords, from drinking toilet water that contains self-cleaning chemicals, to keep them away from antifreeze and other chemical products, and out from under the recliner. But our homes also present many other dangers to our feline and canine companions that we need to consider and take steps to prevent accidental poisoning or injury, possibly even death.

Paper Shredders

Most paper shredders have an on/off switch and automatic-feed buttons. The motors may become warm with use and cats are known to love warm places, and they will walk on anything. It offers the cat a cozy sleeping spot, and they may get their fur caught in the shredding teeth. There also have been reported cases of dogs getting their tongues caught in the shredder. Turn your paper shredder off when not in use, and never leave the auto-feed button on. Better yet, unplug the paper shredder until you need it.

Cat Litter

Avoid clumping cat litters, especially with kittens. Kittens have died after licking this litter off their paws. It will swell in their intestine, causing an obstruction. Deodorized cat litters have a chemical base. If your dog has the unfortunate habit of dining from the cat box, the litter can poison him. Stick with basic clay litters.

Washers and Dryers

Cats and kittens love warm, enclosed spots. Keep the lid closed on your washing machine when it is not in use, and make sure kittens aren’t snuggled up in the laundry basket before adding the load. When loading the dryer, keep an eye out that Fluffy doesn’t decide to jump in and get all cozy.

Wheelchairs

Pets can get caught in the wheel spokes whether chairs are in use or not. Store wheel chairs in a room or closet away from pets when not in use.

Wire Crates
Tags and collars can get caught in the bars. Be sure the floor fits properly and covers the bottom of the wire bars. The pet should have a well-fitted collar and the tags should not dangle down too far. If the pet will be left unattended in the crate, remove his collar when you leave and put it back on immediately when you let him out. Don’t put the collar on the top of the crate where he can get to it and chew on it.

Power Strips and Outlets

Put safety covers on any open outlets to keep your pet from licking the outlet or sticking a nail into it.

Home-Made Play Dough

Kids love play dough and pieces may fall off the table onto the floor. Home-made play dough has a high salt content and may cause salt poisoning in pets, which can be fatal.

Cigarettes and Tobacco Products

Nicotine can be fatal to dogs. Keep all cigarettes, pipes and tobacco, chewing tobacco, and all other tobacco products away from pets. Empty ashtrays often.

Plastic Food Wrap

Pets may ingest bits of plastic wrap when licking food residues off of them, and the bits can cause choking or an intestinal obstruction.

Floor Vents

Your pet’s tags or paws can get caught in the vents, pinning them to the hot surface. Cover all vents by wrapping them in layers of net and pushing the vent tightly into the floor. They may still catch a nail, but the net will help protect them burning their paws.

Rawhide

Dogs love to chew rawhide, but small bits may come off and lodge in the throat causing the animal to choke, or create an obstruction in the stomach or intestines. Rawhide chews may also harbor salmonella, infecting the dog and family members, and some unregulated manufacturers may use toxic chemical in the production of rawhide treats.

Toilets

Even if you don’t use continuous-cleaning products in your toilet, keep the lid closed or the bathroom door shut. Small curious pets may fall in head first and drown

Christmas Ornaments

They may look like toys to your pet. Broken shards of glass can cut your pet’s paws, and any ornament can cause a life-threatening emergency if shards are eaten. Tinsel and ribbon are cat magnets, and can cause intestinal obstructions if your cat ingests them.

Swimming Pools

Don’t allow your dog access to swimming pools without supervision. Most dogs can’t climb ladders. Put stair steps in your pool and train your dog how to get out.

Potpourri

Cats especially (and some dogs) may find your liquid potpourri tasty but it is caustic and will burn the linings of their esophagus or even poison them.

Doors

Heavy doors can swing shut quickly on a small puppy or cat and crush them, or injure the paws or tails of larger dogs.

Trash Cans

Dogs love to rummage through the trash can, but there is much kitchen and household waste that can injure your dog or make him ill, even poison him. Seed and pits from apples, apricots, cherries, and plums contain a chemical that can cause cyanide poisoning. Onions and garlic can cause anemia in dogs. Coffee grounds and tea bags contain caffeine and tannin which are toxic to dogs. Cat love string, rubber bands, ribbon, and yarn, which can cause intestinal obstructions if swallowed. Pop bottle lids and bread tags are choking hazards. The edges of food cans and lids removed with a can opener can cause severe cuts to the tongue if they try to lick the rest of the food out, or cut their paws if they step on them. Keep the trash can covered with a tight-fitting lid or keep it under a counter with a child-safe door latch (smart pets can open doors that don’t latch!).

Toys

Your children’s’ plastic toys that have small pieces that can be removed, and stuffed toys with eyes that can be chewed off are all potential choking hazards to your pet as well. When buying toys for your pet, be sure they are well made with any parts that can’t come off. When toys start to wear or become chewed, or the stuffing starts to come out, throw them away and replace them.

Avoid tragedy by pet-proofing your home. Treat your dog or cat as if it were a curious child, ready to get into everything. Take steps to protect them from their own inquisitive nature, and have pet-safe toys for them to play with to keep them entertained and out of mischief.

Copyright © 2007, Ian White Acess 2000 Pty Ltd

Author Ian White is founder of pet-sitters.biz Pet Sitting Services Directory
See if pet sitting is a solution for you when you go away.
Pet sitting checklists and pet care resources.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ian_White

Ferret Disease And Illness

2007-02-27T09:42:00.000-05:00

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By Lee Dobbins

Some people look at me like I’m crazy when I say “I love my ferret”, but I do, and they can think what they want. My little guy brings me hours of enjoyment and sunshine to my gray days. The last thing in the world I want is for him to get sick, yet it’s a fact of life and in order to offer the best care (and quality of life), you have to keep an eye on what’s going on in their ferret worlds.

FERRET CARE NOTE: If you suspect your ferret is sick, take him to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Do not try to treat him at home.

What I’m going to discuss below isn’t fun, I’d much rather be writing about their fun, frolicking ways, but to ensure those lovable characteristics continue, keep an eye on your ferret’s health. Like most medical problems, if you catch them early, your veterinarian will have the best chance at a successful remedy.

FERRET FACTS:

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Sub-Phylum: Vertibrata

Class: Mamalia

Sub-Class: Eutheria

Order: Carnivora

Family: Mustelidae

Sub-Family: Mustelinae

Genus: Mustela

Species: Mustela Putorius Furo

Ferrets are susceptible to multiple diseases, and depending on their lineage, they could adrenal gland disease, pancreatic tumors, lymphosarcoma or heart disease. And here’s something I only found out recently, ferrets can catch a human cold. No one likes a cold, but with bed rest and some TLC (tender loving care) you’ll soon be good as new, not so with your ferret. Ferrets have weak immune systems and if they were to catch your cold; it could prove fatal. If you’re sick, refrain from handling your ferret till you’re better.

Ask yourself this question, “Do you like extremes of heat and cold?” No..., well neither does your ferret; they have a low tolerance to extremes of heat or cold, so keep them in an area where temperatures stay consistent. I’m sure it’s common sense that you MUST keep fresh water available at all times, the little fellas can easily become dehydrated which can lead to a score of ferret medical problems.

FERRET FACT; Ferrets do not tolerate temperatures above 85 degrees well and may become lethargic.

Recently we had some friends over and grilled some big juicy steaks. So what you say... I didn’t invite you? Sorry about that, I only mention steaks to remind you that ferrets need a high protein diet and snack pretty much constantly throughout the day. That coupled with an active (to say it mildly) digestive system, and you need to keep their food bowl food, and litter box clean and free from waste.

Do you like to give your ferret treats? Don’t worry, I’m guilty too, but do it in moderation and NEVER give them chocolate or sugary treats, keeping it to meat, grains and small bits of fruit will help them lead a disease free life. Oh... and before I forget, “milk... does a body right” does NOT apply to ferrets, they are lactose intolerant.

While we may not be able to prevent disease in our ferret friends, we can provide them a loving, safe and clean environment, ensuring a healthy, fun and frolicking life.

Lee Dobbins write for ePet Pet Center where you can learn more about caring for all different types of pets including pet ferrets.
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The Irish Wolfhound - Easygoing and Soft-natured Giant

2007-02-26T11:35:00.000-05:00

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By Carol Stack

Although not for the faint of heart, Irish Wolfhounds are strong, muscular, beautiful dogs that are usually even tempered and friendly. Originally they were used in Ireland to hunt wolves and Irish elk. But today they are a favorite among dog enthusiasts for their gentle disposition and commanding appearance.

The temperament of this dog breed is soft-natured and easygoing. They are calm around the house and patient. These qualities make them a good dog with children, pets, and other dogs.

History of the Breed

The Irish Wolfhounds in their earliest form were actually dogs that went to war and were trained to kill men and beasts. They were also used as guard dogs and as hunting dogs early on as well.

It is believed that their history has been long, perhaps even reaching all the way back to the first century BC. During the 19th century, when it became popular to give a number of these dogs as gifts to foreign royalty and as the wolf became extinct in Ireland, they almost became extinct.

Thankfully, Captain Graham began to breed Irish Wolfhounds with other breeds, such as Great Danes and Deerhounds, to keep the breed from dying out. This interbreeding led to variations in color and in a mellowing of the temperament as well.

Characteristics of Irish Wolfhounds

Although in history these dogs were used as war dogs and guard dogs, the Irish Wolfhound today does not make a great guard dog. While they do have a penchant to hunt, these dogs love people and require a great deal of interaction with the family.

The Irish Wolfhound is actually the tallest hound in the entire world and they are a stately and proud dog. Their coats feel rather rough to the touch, and they come in a variety of different colors, including brindle, pure white, red, brown, black, gray, and fawn.

They typically live to be about seven, although there are dogs that live to be as old as ten. Increasing numbers of breeders, however, are now selecting for longevity and this will hopefully increase the lifespan of the Irish Wolfhound in the future.

What Irish Wolfhounds Need

If you decide that you want to own an Irish Wolfhound, it is important that you take into consideration the special needs of these dogs and take care of them properly to promote the best health possible. They need plenty of room to stretch out and a daily long walk.

Irish Wolfhounds need to be with people and need plenty of interaction, so before you purchase one, you need to be sure that you have the time to properly take care of your dog.

It is important that you train your Irish Wolfhound well or he may get out of hand. Starting to train from the time your dog is a puppy will help you avoid problems later in the dog's life.

Having an Irish Wolfhound can bring a great deal of joy and pleasure to your life and these dogs make wonderful companions. If you are ready to invest some time in a dog, take care of a dog properly, and you want a dog that will keep you company, you may want to consider having an Irish Wolfhound as a pet.

Carol Stack enjoys writing articles, especially about dogs. She lives with her husband, children, four dogs and seven cats in the United States. Carol and her daughter Christy are working on a web site that focuses on dog breeds, dog care, and dog training. You can visit it at http://www.christysdogportal.com
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Dog Behavior May Be Linked To Their Diet

2006-10-14T09:46:00.000-04:00

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By Lori Matthews

What many pet owners fail to see, is that by feeding our dogs a diet that mainly consists of processed, poorly prepared dog foods or the equivalent of junk food, they may be causing many of the behavioral and severe illnesses that are found in dogs today. Basically, the diet that you are feeding your canine companion could not only be making him aggravated, hyper or plain old mean it could possibly shorten his life span.

A well balanced diet provides quality nutrition and in turn keeps the cells, tissues and organs healthy. This enables an animals’ immune system to stay in top condition to fight any invaders.

The same holds true for behavior. If you ate fast food and candy bars everyday, eventually it will affect your energy level and your mood.

Because we love our pets, this may be a little confusing for those who think that they are doing the right thing, say, feeding their pets dog foods out of the can. Admittedly, not all dog foods are bad. However, many are and contain ingredients that are difficult for your pet to digest and can make him sick. So how do you weed out the good dog foods from the bad?

In order to give your pet the best life, you must make sure that he has the best type of lifestyle, just like us humans. Before buying pet foods, check the label to see what is in the food. Basically, the first five ingredients are important. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients may have more vegetable protein than animal protein which means less nutrition and more clean up.

Canned food can also be full of preservatives, to keep the food inside from going bad. Dog foods containing preservatives should be avoided. Not only has the pet food been filled with preservatives that could cause your pet harm, the pet food has been boiled at high temperatures in the cooking process causing any of the useful nutrition found in the food to be lost anyway. Proper cooking of pet foods will ensure that no preservatives are needed to keep it fresh.

Keep in mind that canned dog food mainly consists of water so feeding a canned diet alone will not give your pet the proper nutrition they need to live a healthy lifestyle.

So let’s look at the things that should be avoided when buying pet food:

No Preservatives. Avoid foods that contain chemicals in them such as BHT or BHA. If these preservatives are found anywhere on the label, give the food a miss, as these chemicals can be harmful to your pet.

No by-products. By-products are the parts of meat that are unsuitable for consumption, such as the feet, necks and intestines of other animals. As you can imagine these parts of animals were not made to be digested by humans, dogs or any animals for that matter.

Beware of grains. Soy, corn, corn gluten and wheat gluten are often used as protein sources; however, they are generally inferior and difficult to digest.

Give your pet the chance at life that he deserves, feed him with a good nutritious premium dog food, free from preservatives and additives that are not meant for dogs. A great way to decide what is suitable for your dog to eat is ask yourself if you would eat it? If your answer is no, don’t feed it to your pet.

Lori Matthews studies health, nutrition and wellness. Enjoys writing articles on health for both people and pets. Please visit Premium Dog Food by Lifes Abundance for more information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lori_Matthews

World's Top Dogs Take the Stage

2006-10-11T09:52:00.000-04:00

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(NewsUSA) - On Dec. 2 and 3, more than 150 breeds of the world's most competitive and coiffed canines will compete for the "National Champion" title at the sixth annual AKC/Eukanuba National Championship in Long Beach, Calif.

The event, which features thousands of dogs from around the world, is broadcast live by Animal Planet and the Discovery Channel, starting at 8 p.m. EST both nights. Hosted by Bob Goen and Leanza Cornett, this is the first time it will be broadcast in December, previously being shown in January.

The event returns to the Long Beach Convention Center after two years in Tampa, Fla. The facility houses the three events during the weekend: AKC/Eukanuba National Championship, the inaugural AKC Agility Invitational and the AKC National Obedience Invitational.

Almost 2,700 dogs from every AKC-recognized breed and variety competed last year, including competitors from all 50 states and 20 countries.

"We are excited that this one-of-a-kind canine extravaganza is returning to Long Beach," said AKC spokeswoman Gina DiNardo Lash. "This city and facility are ideal for hosting thousands of dogs and tens of thousands of dog lovers. We know that millions will be watching around the country, cheering on their favorite breed."

The AKC/Eukanuba National Championship offers the only sizable monetary award in dog shows, with cash and prizes totaling more than $225,000. The National Champion wins $50,000.

The previous "Best In Show" winner, CH Nanuke's Snoklassic No Boundaries, an Alaskan Malamute better known as "Costello," earned more than $80,000 when he was crowned National Champion, Best Bred-By-Exhibitor in Show and Viewer's Choice all on the same night.

All AKC parent club national specialty "Best of Breed" winners once again join the ranks of top dogs invited to the National Championship. Invitations are issued to dogs ranking in the top 25 of their breed. Any dog receiving an all-breed "Best in Show" at an AKC show held during the qualifying period also receives an invitation.

In addition, the top-ranked dog in each AKC-registered breed is invited from those countries around the world with registries that issue pedigrees acceptable for AKC registration. The system used to select the top dog in each breed is determined by each country's national kennel clubs. Dogs from Asia, Europe and South America are expected to compete.

Rebroadcasts of the event will run on Animal Planet Dec. 10, 14 and 16. For more information, visit www.topdogshow.com.

How To Potty Train Your Dog

2006-10-10T17:16:00.000-04:00

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By Mike Strawbridge

Dogs have two natural instincts that you can use to your advantage when potty training them. One is that they prefer not to pee or poop where they sleep. They will move to another area if given the chance. Two is that they will pee or poop where there is already the residual smell of a previous pee or poop.

When potty training a dog there are basically two options to use - Indoors or outdoors.

Indoor training:

To train your dog to go indoors, you will need to set up an area in your home where you want him to learn to do his business and give him free access to that area. Make sure it is not the area where he sleeps.

Put some newspaper down on the floor of the area where you want him to go. Carefully observe your dog and the moment you see him starting to urinate or defecate, immediately take him to the papered area. You may leave a trail in the way but get him to the right area.

Praise your dog once he is in the correct area. As you are cleaning up, leave a small trace of the pee or poop on the paper in the area you want him to use. Remember your dog has much keener sense of smell than you do. Just a trace is all he needs to find his way back to the spot.

Now you must carefully and completely clean up any material that may have been deposited elsewhere. You must leave no smell trace that your dog can find on any other part of the house or your dog may return there and think he is doing just what he is supposed to do. Remember again that your dog’s nose is much more powerful than yours is. Many pet supply stores have cleaning sprays that help to mask the odor for dogs.

The idea is to use your dog’s natural instinct to return to his previous safe spot for each subsequent deposit. Also, to make sure that one and only one spot is made so inviting.

After a couple of weeks, your dog should get the hang of where you want him to go and you will no longer have to save a portion of each deposit to carry the smell over.

Outdoor training:

To train your dog to go outdoors, you will have to develop a communication method so that you and your dog know when it is time to go outside. The frequency is highly variable among breeds and dog size and is also affected by diet.

Just like indoor training you will need to establish a safe spot outside where you want your dog to go. Take him there often so he gets used to the place. Make it as far from his sleep or play area as possible.

If you catch him in the act of going in the house, immediately scoop him up and take him to the outdoor spot. It does not matter if you leave a trail, just get him to the spot. Praise him once he uses the spot.

Leave a small amount of the fecal matter in his safe spot as a scent trace for him to find later. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any indoor traces so that there is not scent trace left.

If your dog is trained to go outdoors, you must be consistent. Make sure that you are available often enough so that he can hold it between trips outside.

You can also hang a bell on a string at the door and ring it each time you take the dog out to potty. Teach the dog to nudge the bell when he needs to go out. This makes a simple and effective communication tool that won’t be confused with other behavior. Don’t teach him to scratch on the door unless you wanted to buy a new door anyway.

Whichever method you choose be consistent. Don’t try to mix indoor and outdoor training, as you will only confuse your dog.

Work with your dogs natural instincts to make this training go much smoother.

To learn more dog training tips and tricks see Mike's blog my-dog-smash.blogspot.com
Mike Strawbridge is a contributor to the Potty Training Site where he shares information on potty training human toddlers. www.pottytrainingsite.com
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Dealing with Fleas in Your Carpet

2006-10-03T09:49:00.000-04:00

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By Enrique Cleanotto

Everyone loves pets. Well, practically everyone. While pets are great, you often will have a problem with fleas getting into your carpet.

Dealing with Fleas in Your Carpet

As anyone with pets can tell you, keeping a house clean when you have a furry friend can be a challenge. From muddy paws, to hairballs and fuzz, pets present some unique cleaning problems – especially where cleaning floors and furniture is concerned. Carpets can be more difficult than other types of flooring, just because they generally tend to trap more dirt and fur, as well as smells and other unwanted debris. One of the things that having a pet can do to your carpet is bring in more guests: like fleas.

Fleas are those annoying little blood-sucking pests that come into your home clinging to that outdoor dog or cat. Their bites can cause itching and red bumps, as well as misery, for both your pet and you. Adult fleas spend all of their time riding on their hosts, which are usually your pets, and don't spend time hanging out in your carpets or other fabric household items. Eggs, too, are found on animals; the adult fleas lay their eggs in the hair or fur of your pets. The stage at which fleas really spend a lot of time in your carpet is at the larval stage. Here, they feed off of dried blood and other matter left in areas where your pet lays (this material is produced by the adult fleas, and falls off in these areas).

The only way to truly get rid of these flea larvae is by carpet cleaning – fleas don't stand a chance if you follow some of these steps to kill them. Your first step is to vacuum. Believe it or not, this easy type of carpet cleaning – fleas can't live through. If you vacuum regularly, you will remove eggs and larvae from the carpet, which will stop them from growing into the adult flea pests. After vacuuming, be sure to seal your vacuum bag in a plastic bag, and throw the plastic bag away outside immediately. This will stop the fleas from being able to escape back into your house.

You can also apply insecticide to your carpet. Be sure to keep pets and people off of the carpet that you've treated until the insecticide dries (it can be toxic, especially to pets and small children). Then, perform some regular carpet cleaning – fleas that have died, as well as any chemical residue, will be picked up easily with a good steam cleaning. Of course, to keep your home truly flea free, you need to treat the infested pets as well. This way, your carpets will stay clean and without fleas.

Enrique Cleanotto is with CarpetCleaningYeti.com - free carpet cleaning articles.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Enrique_Cleanotto

Dog Training – 5 Ways to Stop Annoying Barking

2006-09-29T11:07:00.000-04:00

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By Marilyn Burnham

Incessant barking is not just annoying to you – it’s most likely ticking off your neighbors, too. Most cities have ordinances concerning barking dogs and will fine you if your pet can’t be controlled. Most people want their pets to bark when there is danger or an intruder, so teaching your dog never to bark is really not an option. You want to teach your pet that barking to get your attention or because he’s bored is not appropriate behavior. Dogs bark for another reason, too. When your dog sees people or animals walk by a window or a fence – they walk on by. To your dog, that is naturally defending his territory. He has “won” because the intruder is gone. Have you had a dog that goes ballistic when the postal carrier walks on the porch? If the postman stuck around, your dog wouldn’t be stuck in that pattern. Some owners try electronic “shock” collars to keep their dogs from barking, but they are often ineffective unless you engage a qualified trainer. Try working with your dog yourself before going the electronic collar route. Barking is a difficult issue, and many trainers recommend working with your pet on any other behavior issues before you get to it because it may signify a dominance problem with your dog. Here are some effective ways to cope with barking:

1. Leash training. If your dog has a problem with barking indoors, keep his training collar and leash on. Every time he barks, snap the leash to engage the collar and say, “No,” and lead him to a quiet part of the room. Do this every time he hears a bump, sees another animal or seemingly barks for no reason. If he sees or hears a person, do the same thing, but praise him five seconds later. You want your dog to bark when he sees strangers. Repeat until he understands. If your dog begins walking away on his own, lavishly praise him.

2. Tire him out. If your dog barks incessantly when you aren’t home, try playing with him before you leave to tire him out. This particularly works with puppies. Dogs often sleep after they eat, so feeding your dog before you leave can help, too.

3. Stop giving him what he wants. If your dog determines that you’ll let him in the house when he barks, stop letting him in. It may be annoying for a few days while Buster is figuring out that you have just become a better-trained dog owner, but it will be worth it.

4. Radio training. If you're outside dog barks when you are gone, leave a two-way radio at a strategic location in the yard. Armed with the second radio, walk down the street. Ask your neighbor to stand by your fence or do something to make your dog bark. Shout loudly into the radio, “Quiet!” This gets your dog’s attention because he can hear you but cannot see or smell you. Try it a few times and measure your success.

5. Change your dog’s environment. Close the curtains if your indoor dog spends all day in front of the window barking. If you suspect he’s barking because he’s bored, turn on the television for him. If your outdoor dog is the problem, consider keeping him indoors at night or when you are gone, or build a run in a quiet part of your yard.

In very, very extreme cases, an operation can be performed on your dog that eliminates his bark – you’ll just hear a hoarse whisper. The surgery is controversial, and some vets won’t even perform it. Avoid this! Work with your dog yourself. If you get nowhere, hire a competent trainer

Marilyn Burnham

Author: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know! For Information click on House Dog Training
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marilyn_Burnham

Make Your Cat Purr With Love and Medicine

2006-09-25T10:02:00.000-04:00

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By Roxanna Wehrly

Have you find yourself itching madly in the middle of the night? Does your cat appear tormented from some invisible evil on a regular basis? Hey, I think I may have an idea of what you have. You've got fleas!

Advantage
Advantage cat flea medicine will work on your cat or any pet for up to 30 days. What a lot of people don't know is that you have to make sure your pet has not been wet for the last 24 hours before applying the medicine. You may want to give them a bath with cat flea medicine shampoo prior to using the Advantage, but just be sure there is a span of 24 hours before applying the Advantage cat flea medicine.

What Advantage does is it kills all the fleas. Within 24 hours it goes into the blood stream of your pet. If a flea was to bite them then it would fall off and die.

The biggest problem with cat flea medicines on the market now is that they only work on the mature fleas and not the unhatched ones laying in dormant. Or the fleas they may be nesting and breeding inside your carpet. It's always a good idea to use flea powder on your carpet at the same time you apply your flea cat medicine if the problem has gotten out of control.

If you see a flock of fleas on your pet and think that killing them will get rid of the problem, think again. Killing the flees you see is only one part of the problem. Because as new fleas begin to hatch, the larvae settles into cracks in the floor, deep into the carpet and under cushions on your furniture. The larvae that hatches outdoors thrives in sandy soil, under plants and shrubs -- anywhere your pet lies down or sleeps.

How well your cat flea medicine will work all depends on if your cat stays inside or is an outside cat. There are many more fleas outside just hiding and waiting for their prey so getting rid of fleas on an outside cat will be a much bigger problem.

I know a friend of mine who flea bombed her houses and still continued to have problems. The reason for this is that the spray doesn't get under any chairs and most of the time just makes a very big mess.

Most people don't realizes how big a problem just one flea can make for your pet, not to mention you. Listen up and you'll agree... the female flea routinely consumes 15 times her body weight in blood every day. This high protein diet enables her to lay around 25 eggs every 24 hours. Some have speculated that in just 30 days, ten adult female fleas on your cat could produce a quarter of a million offspring. That is a lot of miserable scratching and itching!

Brewers Yeast
Another cat flea remedy I have used and would be my second choice is Brewers yeast. You put a small teaspoon of this in their food. For some reason fleas do not like the smell. This seems to work reasonable well. An added bonus is that Brewers yeast will also provide many vitamins and minerals for your cat.

Water and Vinegar
A water and vinegar solution is also something I have heard along the way. You would spray this on your cat. The vinegar in the solution will burn the fleas and they will hop off your pet. The only problem I see with this being that you still have the fleas inside your home and carpet, and not to mention the worst thing being that the cats hate water and will not appreciate being sprayed down. You may need to do this every few days until the problem disappears. Not the best cat flea medicine, however, it is a low-cost solution.

Author Credit: Get smart pet tips and strategies for taking care of your cat such as articles like cat flea medicine at AboutCatsInfo.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Roxanna_Wehrly

Pet Relocation - Tips For International Pet Moving

2006-09-22T11:26:00.000-04:00

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By Kevin O'Brien

Five Tips for Safe and Humane International Pet Relocation

Owning or adopting a pet should be for life, regardless of what corner of the world your career or other circumstances happen to send you. When planning an international move transporting your beloved pet is only part of a long, daunting list of preparations that have to be made. Many people feel forced to find new homes for their animals rather than subject them to a traumatic transportation - however there are steps that can be taken to ensure the journey is as easy as possible on your companion.

1. Contact the local consulate of the destination country: The first step in planning an international trip with a pet should be to contact the consulate of the destination country for your pet's importation requirements. Some countries require a lengthy quarantine; others have more rigid standards and some only accept pets at certain airports within that country. The most important thing to remember is just like human travel, pets also need additional documentation in order to enter its desired country. Each country is different, as they all require their own documentation when accepting pets.

2. Find an airline that will work with you: Contact the airlines that fly to your proposed destination, select one and then check with them to confirm that they will accept your pet on the day and flight that you prefer. This will allow you to see if this date works, or how you can work around their flight times. As soon as you get on the plane, ask a flight attendant to confirm that your pet is on board. That way, if there's been any mix-up and it has not been loaded, you have a better chance of getting something done about it. Some airlines will allow you to carry small pet carriers with you in the main cabin, but only if it will fit under the seat in front of you.

3. Visit the vet prior to the flight: Your Veterinarian must be consulted well before your departure date. They will give your pet a full check up and advise you on any potential problems and can also assist you with questions or concerns that you may have. Make sure you have all the required documentation, as noted when you contacted the consulate of your destination.

4. Limit food intake the day before travel: Although they may initially disagree, your animal's potential for a comfortable trip can be increased by limiting their prior food intake. Prepare your pet for its journey by reducing the quantity of food the day before flying. Allow for normal water access as dehydration is a serious danger. Make sure to walk your dog before you go to the airport and before check in, which should be 1-2 hours before the flight.

5. Equip your pet's carrier or crate with the vital necessities: The big day has arrived! While your pet is out of your sight and care, make it as easy as possible for airline staff to care for them. Your animal's travel crate must meet the airline's standards and be large enough for the pet to lie down comfortably turn around and stand freely in. Mark the crate with "Live Animal - This side up" and include your name, address and telephone number. At least two water bowls and dried food must be attached to the top of the carrier in case there are any flight delays. Any medication that is used for your pet must also be recorded with the name of the drug, the time and directions of administration.

While you can make all the arrangements yourself, nothing is worse than having your pet impounded or lost because of an oversight or lack of knowledge. Make it a point to double-check all requirements and to follow up on each aspect of them.

If you are pressed for time, or are more comfortable placing the care of your pet in the hands of international pet transport professionals, reputable companies such as www.PetRelocation.com can assist you. Their specialists have successfully completed thousands of international pet relocations with fully customized travel itineraries to the most remote places on the globe, and their in-depth understanding of the pet relocation market is unparalleled.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_O'Brien

Learn All The Secrets of The Amazing Goldfish

2006-09-20T10:49:00.000-04:00

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By Joshua Stanton

Goldfish are known to be the most common and popular choice for pets. But why do people bring home Goldfish? They can’t run or let out a squeak leave alone express themselves and they definitely can’t play catch. All they will do is just swim and swim and swim and yet they manage to make that connection with us and we love them for it. If you ask a Goldfish lover what makes them great, the answer would be: they are great because they just are!

Are Goldfish really gold?

One of the probable reasons why people are attracted to Goldfish could be because of their golden hues. It gives them that exotic and different look. However, they aren’t really golden – more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red – that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black. In fact, when Goldfish are born they are neither gold nor orange. They are a very tan or olive kind of shade and sometimes they can be pretty dark. It’s only when they grow that they begin to change their color.

Essentially a wild species, Goldfish probably acquired their color over the ages and thanks to genetic mutations and selective breeding we have Goldfish that can range from silver to gold, red to orange, with a single tail or a fantail and some with pop eyes and without dorsal fins! The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. Goldfish is one species that has been bred, crossbred and changed quite a bit and this has been going on since more than hundreds of years. But when did it all begin?
The Birth of the Goldfish

It all began in Ancient China when the goldfish as we know it today was bred from the gibel carp which is found in slow moving waters in South China. The first evidence we have is in the year 265-415 when the Chun dynasty recorded the gold hue of this fish. From then on documents show that the goldfish were raised in ponds within Buddhist monasteries and mostly in the houses of royalty and other aristocrats.

It was during the reign on the Ming Dynasty that records show the Goldfish being raised in bowls as indoor pet. This in fact helped the Goldfish to evolve double tail and anal fins, red and white coloration and even dispense with their dorsal fins. Goldfish became linked to prosperity, fortune and good luck and even inspired art in China which was reflected in the goldfish motifs used in silks, ceramics and jade carvings.

Soon they began to become more commonly available and made their first trip out of their homeland to Japan in 1603. In 1611- 1691 goldfish were exported to Europe. It was in 1874 that Goldfish made an entry into United States of America. The 19th Century saw

the demand for aquariums and goldfish grow. The world's first public aquarium opened in London in 1853.

Today’s modern Goldfish has its very own definition: “A small reddish golden Chinese carp kept for ornament” (Oxford Dictionary, American Edition, Oxford University Press). Its official biological name is Carassius auratus and but it’s commonly known as the golden carp or simply the goldfish.

If you want to know more about goldfish, than why not visit my site and pick up your own Comprehensive Guide to Goldfish! http://www.SecretsOfGoldfish.com (Recommended)
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joshua_Stanton

Learn All The Secrets of The Amazing Goldfish

2006-09-20T10:48:00.000-04:00

Household Items that Can Kill Your Dog

2006-09-19T09:47:00.000-04:00

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By Carol Stack

According to the web site of The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), the number of pets ingesting household and backyard poisons is increasing. In some cases, such as with polyurethane glue, the increase is dramatic. Since 2002 the number of dogs ingesting this glue has risen 740%.

For some reason dogs and cats are ingesting more poisons than in the past. Perhaps there are more products around that are made with poisonous ingredients, or perhaps with our busy lives we forget to put things away in a safe place. Whatever the reason, there is a significant increase in the number of pets dying each year from poisonous substances.

People love their pets and don’t want to see them suffer. There are precautions everyone can take to protect their dog, cat, bird, ferret or whatever from ingesting poisons found inside the home, in the garage, and in the yard.

With the coming of cold weather the number of dogs and cats dying from ingesting antifreeze and ice melts increases. Antifreeze is very toxic and even small amounts can cause kidney damage that is life-threatening.

Most cases of antifreeze poisoning occur right at the animal’s own home because the proper storage containers were not used or the antifreeze was not disposed of properly. Keep these things in mind when working with antifreeze:

• Clean up spills immediately

• Check for leaks under your car regularly

• Store antifreeze in clearly marked containers that are sealed and out of reach of your pets

• Never allow your pet into the area where you are draining radiator fluid from your vehicle

• Consider using products containing propylene glycol, which is a less toxic form of antifreeze instead of those containing ethylene glycol

If you think your pet has ingested antifreeze contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-426-4435 immediately.

Ice melts (used in areas where it snows to melt ice) are another cold weather problem for pets. Walking on ice melts that contain ingredients such as calcium chloride and sodium chloride (table salt) can cause skin irritation. If your pet licks their paws and ingests the ice melt they can experience many side affects including drooling, vomiting, decreased muscle function, and in severe cases, seizures, coma and even death.

Again, if you think your pet has come in contact with an ice melt product it is important you contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center right away. There are different treatments for different types of ice melts so it will help if you know the type your pet was exposed to.

To help protect your pet memorize the list of poisonous items found on the ASPCA web site at: www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=pro_apcc_poisonsafe. Keep these things out of reach of your pet. Included in this list are things as common as:

• Coffee

• Onions

• Garlic

• Salt

• Yeast dough

• Avocado

• Alcoholic beverages

• Chocolate

• Raisons and grapes

• Citronella candles

• Vitamins

• Diet pills

• Pain killers

• Cold medicines

• Moth balls

• Fabric softener sheets

• Liquid potpourri

• Rat and mouse bait

• Products sweetened with xylitol (includes some sugar-free gum and candy)

The list is long, but it could save the life of your dog or cat if you memorize it and then keep these things out of your pet’s reach.

Copyright 2006 Carol Stack

Carol Stack has been working with dogs for over three decades. She lives with her husband, 3 kids, 4 dogs, 8 cats and 1 bird (Bob) in California. She and her daughter Christy have created a site especially for dog lovers at: www.christysdogportal.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Stack

Great Ideas For Hamster Cages

2006-09-15T10:00:00.000-04:00

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By Morgan Hamilton

It is really great to have a hamster as your pet. They are very cute and they like to chew different things but especially cloth. While cats and dogs are allowed to walk freely around your home, you don't let your hamster out of its cage. You do need to have a hamster cage in case you own one of these lovable pets. The cages come in many different shapes and sizes and have a variety of features for your hamster.

The most popular shape for hamster cages is rectangular. Because of this particular shape the hamster cages are usually put in a corner, so that they wouldn't stand in the center of the room and be on your way. When you feel like playing with your pet, you can easily take the hamster out but when you have stopped playing with it and are leaving the room it is good to make sure you have put it in its cage.

You should pay attention to your hamster's security because if it escapes from its cage, it might become a prey for animals. Many neighbours have cats and they can hurt your adorable little pet, so you should protect it from them. Consequently, if there are any cats around you should always lock your hamster in its hamster cage, so that it would be safe.

Just as any other mammal hamsters need a daily supply of water. Most of the hamster cages have a water bottle system. In cages made of wire there is a little ball at the end of the nozzle so that the water doesn't flow free but comes out when the hamster is thirsty.
You can also buy little bows which can be used for feeding. They are put in the hamster cages and the pets can eat from them. There are several types of hamster food.

It is very important to keep your hamster fit as it needs regular exercises. You can help it by purchasing a small wheel that fits inside the hamster cages. This is how you will make sure your lovely pet will get some exercises when it is closed there. There are also such hamster cages which have plastic tubes which go through and around the cage. Their main purpose is to entertain the hamster and let it roam around its home.

Cleaning hamster cages is a very important task and should not be neglected for the well-being of both your little pet and yourself. To make it easy for cleaning, you can put a newspaper on the bottom of the hamster cage and also some wood chips. You just lift the paper and the wood chips out and replace them with new.

When living in a building where having animals is restricted taking a hamster might be just the way to have a pet. It is good for your children to have a pet like hamster as they will easily learn how to take care of a pet while playing and having fun with it.

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning pets. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting Hamster Cages
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Morgan_Hamilton

Cat Training Aids On The Market

2006-09-14T09:50:00.000-04:00

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By K Snow

There are many types of cat-training aids on the market. Some
of the most helpful training tools are leashes, a scat mat,
catnip, toys, and food treats.

Having a simply and lightweight cat leash lets you train your
cat to go for a walk or ride in the car. Cats require exercise,
and using a leash while taking a walk with your cat outside will
provide protection and keep the cat from running off. You want
the cat to walk with you, not ahead of you, so train the cat to
expect that you will be the leader. Both of you will enjoy your
walks much more if this approach is taken.

The scat mat is good for showing cats that certain areas are
not open to them. These devices send out pulses of static
electricity when a cat enters the forbidden area. There are
many sizes and colors of scat mats. Some even come in
transparent versions so the cat cannot see that they are on the
area. Additionally, scat mats are safe to use. They can be
connected if you have especially large areas where you don’t
want your cat to go. Dummy scat mats do not include the
electric pulse and may be used after the cat is trained to
provide reminders of appropriate behavior.

Catnip can be used on cat litter to attract the cat to the
litter box. Male cats tend to respond more to catnip, which has
a scent similar to the urine of a female cat. Catnip comes in
different forms for training. Toys that are filled with catnip
can help a cat to learn a specific behavior. For fund, catnip
in bubble form is available. It is similar to the kind of
soap-bubble toy that children play with, but it has an added
scent of catnip. The product is safe for your cat and will not
harm him or her. Catnip is also available in a powered form
that you can rub on your hand. You can even buy catnip seed and
plant it inside or outside your home to give the cat a real
treat.

If your cat is pouncing on things like it would pounce on a
mouse, it may be useful to give the cat a toy mouse. Cats, by
nature, will pounce as if they are killing something. Having a
toy mouse lets the cat act in a normal way. Some toy mice on
the market can be wound up so the cat can chase them. Others
may be stuffed with catnip. Training a cat has a lot to do with
letting it fulfill its natural instincts. A cat that can perform
its normal activities will be a happier and healthier companion.

Offering healthy food rewards is another good tool for training
a cat. Many cat treats include vitamins so you will know that
the cat is getting what it needs nutritionally. If you are a
baker, you might want to try to make your own cat treats. There
are even prepackaged mixes available.

Remember to be patient with your cat while it is learning.

Discover more articles and resources offering tips and advice about Training cats and other pets by visiting http://petsize.com
Source: http://www.isnare.com

Hermit Crabs - Helpful Tips for Care

2006-09-08T11:15:00.000-04:00

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By Tonia Jordan

First, remove from your mind the idea that these creatures are very low maintenance. It’s not that they require a huge amount of your time, but they do require weekly bathing, new food every few days, new water every day, heat, and a regularly cleaned environment.

Habitat:

A hermit crab will be very comfortable in a 10-gallon or bigger aquarium with a few inches of sand or stones at the bottom. Two shallow dishes of water are required – one for salt water and one for dechlorinated fresh water. You can buy additives at pet stores in preparing each water dish. Sponges sitting in the dishes work very well to help add humidity to the habitat.

You’ll also need a thermometer and humidity gauge. The tank needs to be between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. You can use either an under-tank heater, or low wattage lighting to provide heat. The humidity must also be between 70 and 80 percent to keep your hermit crabs healthy.
It helps to have a lid on your tank to keep in moisture, and to keep in your crabs. They can be quite the climbers!

Food:

Commercial hermit crab food can be purchased at any pet stores that sell the animal. Supplement their daily food regiment with assorted fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grain breads, or small pieces of fish and meat. You can also offer some pieces of cuttlebone or boiled egg shells for calcium.

You will need to clean food dishes daily and remove any uneaten bits of food from the tank. Also rinse and refill water dishes daily.

Shells:

Be sure to provide plenty of empty shells in a variety of sizes. Make sure to also have a variety of shells in different shapes and styles, and with various opening sizes. You never know what type of shell a hermit crab may like, and if a good selection is not provided, crabs can fight over the best ones!

Bathing:

Hermit crabs need to be bathed once per week to stay healthy. (This is also a good time to clean the rest of the habitat) Fill a bowl about one inch deep with lukewarm tap water. Very slowly place the hermit crab feet first into the water. Often, the hermit crab will seek shelter inside its shell during this process. As the crab emerges, the water will go into his shell and rinse it clear of any debris. After a few minutes of walking around, take the hermit crab out and place it into his newly clean tank. (This may also be a good time for a treat of fresh carrots or any other type of treat)

Cleaning the habitat:

About once per month, do a thorough cleaning with hot water. Avoid detergents and chemicals as these can be harmful to your pets. Sand can be washed and boiled or baked to sterilize it for re-use, if desired.

Hermit Crabs are very friendly and fun pets. While they do require a good deal of care to keep them healthy, they are very rewarding pets and can be quite the stress reliever. As with any pet, research should be done before you make the decision to adopt it.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.
Tonia Jordan is a freelance Journalist and a writer on http://www.Writing.com which is a site for Writers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tonia_Jordan

Travel with Pets

2006-09-07T09:55:00.000-04:00

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By Jillian Scheeler

Pet Travel: What to do when traveling with pets

Pet air travel tips, road trip tips and more Pets are like a child to many and the thought of leaving them at home while on vacation is not an option for some. However, before taking your pets on vacation with you, there are several items that you need to be aware of and a few pet travel tips that need to be followed.

Pet travel decisions While it may be tempting to bring your pet with you on vacation, keep in mind that some animals are not suited for travel whether it is due to illness, age or physical impairments. It is very important to consult with your veterinarian about pet travel and pet air travel before embarking on a trip to ensure the safety of your pet.

Trains, planes and automobiles

Pet air travel Every airline has different rules and regulations when it comes to flying with pets. So to avoid finding out your airline doesn't allow pet travel at the last minute, there are several things that you can do. First, contact your airline well in advance and find out their pet air travel regulations. Carrying your pet on board with you is the best option, but oftentimes cargo is the only option with some airlines if your pet is large. While Congress did pass the Safe Air Travel for Animals Act in April 2000, there are several items that need to be considered to ensure your pet's safety while flying in cargo. First, many airlines have specific carrier requirements so make sure you fulfill these. Second, make sure the carrier you choose is large enough for your pet to be able to turn around in and be comfortable for the long flight. Third, try to make sure it is a non-stop flight to ensure that your pet does not get lost. Fourth, correctly adhere a label on the pet carrier with your phone number, address, final destination and contact number while on vacation. There are plenty of other considerations and tips that can be found by looking at the Humane Society's Web site. If your airline does not allow pets to travel or you are wary of transporting your pet via cargo, you have other options to consider.

Road trip with pets Many pets love traveling by car; so it is a personal decision as to whether your pet needs to be kept in a carrier or not. Cats oftentimes are uncomfortable traveling, so it is better to keep them in a carrier for their safety and yours. If the pet is not going to be kept in a carrier you need to make sure they are safely secured in the vehicle. There are special harnesses that can be bought to secure or "seatbelt" your dog in safely. It is important to stop frequently when traveling with pets to let them exercise and go to the bathroom.

Trains, buses and ships Very few ships allow pets to accompany travelers and Amtrak does not allow pets. However, many European trains and a few small US railroad companies allow pets on board. As far as buses and other public transportation, the rules and regulations vary between states and cities.

Pet accommodations There are hundreds of Web sites out there that list pet friendly hotels and a pet-friendly hotel can be found in almost any city. For example if you're traveling to San Francisco you can stay at the Hilton San Francisco Financial District or if you're visiting Austin you can stay at the La Quinta Inn Austin North.

Pet Fun Wherever you are vacationing, a pet-friendly park or beach can be found and outdoor related activities are best for pet travelers. For restaurants, outdoor places will oftentimes allow pets to accompany.

When traveling with pets it is important to ensure their safety and not to do anything that could put them in danger. And if you're going to bring your pet with you, make sure that you will be able to entertain them. Here's to happy traveling!

Jillian Scheeler makes it easy to provide advise on how to carry pets along with you while travelling. To recieve your free part minicourse visit the Travel with pets.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jillian_Scheeler

Aquarium Filters - How They Work and the Benefits and Negatives of Each Type

2006-09-01T09:49:00.000-04:00

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By Carl Strohmeyer

AQUARIUM FILTERS

There are several different kinds of aquarium filters, each with advantages and disadvantages. Most work best when used in combination to compliment each other, this redundancy is also important for peace of mind in case one filter fails, another will keep your aquarium filtering. I give my opinion too with each of these types of filters, based on 28 + years maintaining a Large Aquarium maintenance company in Los Angeles, California. I used many different types and brands of filters during this time, and continue to try new ones out.

UNDERGRAVEL (UGF)

An old standby that is good for biological filtration (the conversion of fish waste from ammonia and nitrites to less harmful nitrates), but is poor for mechanical filtration (the removal of debris- organic and inorganic). Although I have use many over the years with good results, I do not generally recommend them anymore. Most also do not perform chemical filtration although some have small carbon cartridges that go on the exhaust of the lift tube (Lee’s makes such a UGF). They are also not real good for planted aquariums; the roots have a hard time thriving with the filter plants just below the gravel (although you add potted aquarium plants to aquariums with UGFs). UGF are also poor at denitrification, as they do not allow for the fine sand and anaerobic bacteria needed for Nitrate removal.

If used, I recommend a HOB (power filter) as a compliment, they have better mechanical and chemical filtration, but tend to be lacking in biological filtration (some are better than others for this).

HANG ON BACK-POWER FILTERS (HOB)

Another more popular filter now, these filters are good for mechanical and chemical filtration, and sometimes biological filtration. This does vary widely with the model though. The Aqua Clear is better than most for biological filtration, but it’s design tend to lead to flow-by, resulting in poor mechanical filtration (they also have poor impellers, and in my experience, have a higher than normal break down record). The Penguin has good mechanical filtration (little flow-by), but are not as good for bio filtration, EVEN with the Bio-Wheel! I have run many Penguins since they came out, but their bio-wheels tend to stop easily, and I have run ammonia and nitrite tests with heavily loaded aquariums and observed little difference with or without (I added a seeded Sponge filter to these same tanks and observed an immediate improvement in these levels).
Whisper and ReSun use cartridges that are best rinsed in used aquarium water, or else should have a small sponge placed in them to preserve bio colonies, otherwise these would be my HOB of choice.

HOB filters are good compliments to sponge filters or under gravel filters.

SPONGE FILTERS

Probably one of the most under rated filters available. These filters are excellent biological filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are simple and inexpensive. The type of sponge material makes a large difference in the filters bio capacity. Reticulated filter foam is the preferred sponge material. One of the sponge filters benefits is their ease in cleaning, which in turn lowers the amount of organic material being broken down in the nitrogen cycle. It takes only minute to clean a sponge filter by rinsing it used aquarium water, while it may take half an hour to clean a canister filter.

Internal filters and HOB small aquariums are good compliments to sponge filters. Canister filters are good compliments to sponge filters in large aquariums.
I have a lot more information about sponge filters in my article: "Sponge Filters"

INTERNAL FILTERS

Not as common a filter but a much less alternative to expensive and bulky canister filters. Internal filters are basically a power head with a filter of varying capacity attached. They are useful for improved water circulation, generally are good mechanical and biological filters (although generally they do not have a large capacity). They are a great secondary or even third filter in large aquariums, and a good secondary are even primary filter in small aquariums (under 60 gallons).
Internal filters are a good compliment to almost any filter (especially fluidized).
I prefer the Via Aqua internal filters for the flow rates, internal sponges and durability.

CANISTER FILTERS

Popular filters for larger aquariums in particular, Canister filters are known for their large capacity, which sometimes can be their problem. Many aquarists will not clean canister filters often enough as they are “still running well”, but in reality are have a large build up of organic sludge turning them into ‘nitrate factories”. I do recommend them if they are serviced regularly, as their ability to hold large amounts of different filter media and their excellent mechanical filtration set canister filters above most other filters. For the money I prefer the Via Aqua or Jebo (the Jebo is the same basic filter), the Eheim is excellent but way over priced for the slightly better quality. The Magnum has unique convertible features (the ability to switch between standard canister filtration and micron), but their capacity is poor compared to the rest. Although popular, I am less than impressed with the Fluval. They have weak motors, poorly designed impellers, and have a larger flow-by than most others. I have had dozens of Fluvals on my maintenance route over the years, and their longevity is less than most others.

Canister filters are good compliments to internal and sponge filters.

WET/DRY FILTERS

Popular with marine aquariums in particular, these filters are great biological filters, but poor mechanical filters. They also can become “nitrate factories” like canister filters if not maintained properly.

They are two basic types; the under tank wet/dry which uses a siphon to take aquarium water out to the “sump” where the bio balls are other biological media are, and uses a pump or powerhead to return the water. With this type of wet/dry you want to make sure that you do not over fill the aquarium past where the sump will over flow with the pump off in case of a power or pump failure. This type also usually has a pre filter box to add mechanical filtration to the wet/dry. You can run a variety of bio media in this type of wet/dry. Bio balls and ceramic bio media are popular; live rock, plant refuguiums, sponge filters attached to the pump intake, or all of the above are also popular.

The other type is the built into the back wet/dry. These wet/drys are usually much more reasonably priced (along with the aquarium they are attached to). They usually do not have the versatility or capacity as the under tank wet/drys do though.
Internal filters are usually good compliments to wet/dry filters.

FLUIDIZED BED FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters only. They work well attached to an internal or canister filer (I prefer an internal). Fluidized bed filters use fine sand kept suspended in a water flow for aerobic biological filtration. The plus is they are basically self cleaning as the sand is constantly rubbing against other grains keeping down the organic buildup. The negative is do not supply a lot of oxygen for the aerobic bacteria. I have set up fluidized filters in marine aquariums in place of wet/drys with excellent results (I set up a whole marine aquarium store department this way). But I strongly recommend other filters (especially internal) to make up for the weakness of fluidized filters. If properly installed, their strengths will shine (they are not the nitrate factories that wet/drys are).

MUD FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters. Their advantage is they work both aerobically and anaerobically (removing nitrates). They are not good as the only filter and do not replace mechanical or even germicidal filtration (in marine). They do make an excellent alternative to sometimes difficult to use protein skimmers.

GERMACIDAL FILTRATION

Germicidal filtration is the use of UVC radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens and improve the Redox Potential in aquariums. I believe they are essential to a healthy marine fish aquarium. But are equally important to expensive and sometimes delicate freshwater fish such as Discus. I have a very in depth article about “Why you should use a UV Sterilizer and how it works”. I strongly recommend reading this article.

By Carl Strohmeyer
http://aquarium-filters.blogspot.com/
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carl_Strohmeyer

Buying a New Horse Trailer

2006-08-30T10:11:00.000-04:00

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By Fred Waters

There are certain things you should consider when buying a new horse trailer. After all, you want make sure that you’re getting a safe, quality trailer that meets the needs of your horse(s), as well as your own needs.

The first and foremost thing you should consider when shopping for a new horse trailer is your horse(s). Keep in mind that horses are claustrophobic by nature. Therefore, a trailer with plenty of room, light, and ventilation will create less stress on the horse. In turn, the horse will load more easily and will travel more comfortably. He will also be less likely to injure himself and will be less likely to suffer from stress-related health problems such as shipping fever, dehydration, and colic.

The Importance of the Size of the Horse

The size of your horse is a very important factor to consider. Most likely, you don’t enjoy being cramped-up in tight quarters when you travel. And, neither does your horse! If the horse doesn’t have enough room to move its legs forward and sideways, it could lose its balance while moving. Narrow trailers and trailers with full center dividers can potentially cause the horse to scramble, because he does not have enough space to spread his legs to keep his balance. Be aware that slant load trailers are not styled for horses that are over 15.3h, and the length of the stall is not long enough to allow the horse freedom of movement. Horses over 15.3h should have at least 7 feet of stall length and 3 feet of head area - 10 feet overall. In the past, a 7 foot tall trailer was considered extra tall.

Today, however, it isn’t unusual for trailers to be 7'4" to 7'6" tall. This height should be considered for any horse over 15.3h. There should also be enough room for the horse to lower its head to remove debris (hay dust and other contaminants in the trailer) by coughing, in order to keep his respiratory tract clear.

Make sure there are no sharp edges or protrusions anywhere on the trailer. (Check both inside and out.) Look at the floor boards. These should run the length of the trailer (vertically), not across the trailer (horizontally), and there should be good support underneath.

Floor mats and ramps should be non-slip. Ramps should not be steep. If it’s a step-up trailer, the horse should be able to walk out headfirst when unloading. (Step-up trailers can be dangerous when backing the horse out, because the horse can slip under the trailer and possibly receive a major injury, as a result.)

For safer trailering, rubber torsion suspension is available on almost all newer trailers. This type of suspension greatly reduces the amount of shock. As a result, the horse absorbs less shock through the floor of the trailer, thereby reducing stress to the horse. Also, if the trailer should have a flat tire, rubber torsion suspension allows the remaining three wheels to maintain the trailer until you can get to a safe place to change the tire.

Quick-release mechanisms on all tie rings, center dividers, chest bars, and butt bars are a must-have for safety and convenience. Construction material and all other parts should be strong enough to hold up to the largest, strongest horse you will be hauling. In fact, the strength of the trailer, not its weight, should be your first priority, if you have large horses to haul. How well will the trailer hold up to a panicky horse or in a traffic accident?

Now that you’ve taken into consideration the needs of your horse(s), it’s time to consider your own needs. Do you need a trailer for hauling horses long distances or short distances? If you’ll be frequently traveling long distances, will you need a dressing room for showing or a gooseneck for sleeping? Are you comfortable towing a large rig across the country? (Keep in mind that, once you’ve chosen the right horse trailer for you, you’ll need to buy a tow vehicle to pull the trailer.)

These are just a few of the considerations when purchasing a new horse trailer.

Neva Scheve is the author of The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. She and her husband Tom are the owners of EquiSpirit Horse Trailers. Built for your horse's safety.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Fred_Waters

A Dog is for Life, Not Just for Christmas

2006-08-28T09:47:00.000-04:00

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By S. Roberts

Every year, around Christmas time the RSPCA make appeals to everyone to think before buying a puppy or any other pet as a Christmas present. The RSPCA's message is "A dog is for life, not just for Christmas". This prompt is to make people think, and to consider the implications of owning a pet.

It is a wonderful experience to see your child's face light up when you present them with an adorable puppy. There's no getting away from that, however it doesn't last very long and it is only one side of the coin.

Puppies are hard work. They chew, they soil, they can interrupt sleep, they dig and they demand a lot of attention, it's rather like taking on another child.

Although puppy's grow quickly, their education is a slow process, even if you have an intelligent breed. During your puppy's education and socialisation you need to remain calm and patient at all times, and above all you must be consistent, even if you are at the end of your tether. One small slip up confuses your pup and can set his education back.

Puppies tend to take up a lot of time, Just like a child. Your puppy would need walking (come rain, blizzard or shine) training, feeding, brushing, cleaning up after, as well as playing with. Children soon loose interest with all these chores and they inevitably fall to the parents. Do you have time for all these little jobs every day? If not your bored depressed little puppy will probably eat your sofa.

Of course puppy farms are applying hard sell tactics in the run up to Christmas. They prey on people who are unsure if they should buy a puppy or not. The puppy farms force people into making rash decisions that are not thought through properly. The salesmen may say "Well, someone else is interested in this pup", of course there isn't anyone else, they just want to force the sale by making the buyers think that they may loose the chance of buying the cute little puppy they have shown interest in. The puppy farmers are not concerned if you are ready and able to take on a puppy, they are only thinking of the wonderful Christmas they can have once they have their hands on your cash.

Christmas day will no doubt be a wonderful day with your new puppy and your happy children. Any puppy mishaps will be regarded as little accidents and mischievous behaviour and all pups’ naughtiness will be heart warming and laughed off.

Six to eight months down the line, puppy is still having little accidents. Puppy is now a big puppy, and proving to be a bit of a handful. The kids have lost interest and everything is covered in dog hairs

This is when the RSPCA see a boom in puppies that have been placed into their care. The RSPCA can not possibly re-home every adorable puppy that comes to them. Anyway, who wants your unruly puppy at the RSPCA when they can go to the puppy farm and buy a younger, smaller and cuter puppy there?

The fact is that some cute adorable pups that find themselves at the RSPCA have to be destroyed, due to no fault of their own, other than nobody want them.

Happy Christmas Pup!

S. Roberts write for http://www.santaspostbag.co.uk/ Read more Christmas articles at http://www.santaspostbag.co.uk/christmas-articles.html If you publish this article ‘A Dog is for Life not just for Christmas’ please link to http://www.santaspostbag.co.uk/ - Thanks
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Differences in Professional Breeders and "Backyard" Breeders

2006-08-25T16:44:00.000-04:00

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By Connie Limon

Early in the lives of the Shih Tzu puppies, the very best of care is crucial to well-rounded Shih Tzu puppy development. Dams and their litters do not survive alone. There is more to raising Shih Tzu and the Toy breed puppies in general than truly meets the eye.

Not only does one need to carefully consider the pedigrees and health histories of each mating, but one must continue to study to become an expertise in general puppy care. Yes, there is much, much more to breeding than just putting two dogs together and allowing nature to take its course. Dog breeding is a science. It is a discipline. It is a profession.

Shih Tzu breeding must be carefully thought out and is most definitely a profession that does require specialized knowledge. Regardless of the location of your breeding establishment, whether it is in your backyard, your garage, basement or an establishment that is especially built for breeding purposes, you the breeder is who makes your establishment professional or non-professional. The breeder is who determines what type of establishment, professional or non-professional, the breeding establishment is. Location, such as the backyard, basement or buildings especially designed for breeding purposes does not determine whether or not the establishment is professional.

If a breeder fails in their responsibilities to the early lives of Shih Tzu puppies, it is either through ignorance or lack of commitment. Ignorance, lack of knowledge and lack of commitment more closely defines the “backyard” breeder, and or those raising puppies in puppy mills. The committed and professional breeder realizes there is no real profit in rearing a litter of Shih Tzu puppies other than the satisfaction of doing the best job possible.

Once Shih Tzu puppies open their eyes the real work and expense of rearing a litter begins. Shih Tzu puppies begin to display individual character traits. It is at this time that Shih Tzu puppies rely more heavily upon the breeder and less with the dam. The professional breeder recognizes and readily assumes the responsibilities of caring for a Shih Tzu litter and does not abandon them to their dam’s care alone.

A large Shih Tzu litter may require supplementary feeding while continuing to allow the dam and offspring full access to each other. Smaller or premature Shih Tzu puppies often require supplementary feeding around the clock. The healthy brood matron should be vibrant, should not carry excess weight nor appear undernourished. An emotionally and physically healthy dam consistently maintains an active and lively interest in her puppies and environment. The professional breeder must be observant enough to care for the captain (the brood matron) just as well as to care for the Shih Tzu litter providing her with adequate food, water and emotional support.

There are very distinctive differences between the “backyard” unprofessional breeder and the professional breeder, some of which are detailed here in this article. There are many other differences, far too many to mention in one article.

Author: Connie Limon. I raise Shih Tzu puppies from top champion bloodlines. Visit us, sign up for our newsletter and purchase online at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Connie_Limon

Pet Health Insurance

2006-08-24T10:01:00.000-04:00

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By Jennifer Bailey

Many people are unaware that they can insure their pets in the United States. Whether or not pets really need to be insured is a moot point.

If your pet has an accident or is stricken with cancer, you would want the best possible treatment to increase its chances of survival. Advances in veterinary science have seen newer techniques and newer levels of care. Without insurance, it would be difficult to afford these treatments. From ultrasound and chemotherapy to radiation and surgery, pet healthcare is becoming increasingly 'high-tech.'

Pet insurance is very similar to human insurance. There are a number of pet insurance companies online, and it takes no time at all to sign up. The premiums are between $100 and $1,000 for a year. You can start your policy when your pet is a few weeks old. There are over 135 million cat and dog owners in the country; more than 60% of homes own a dog or a cat, and not even 1% of those individuals have insurance. Though pet insurance has been around for probably twenty years, it is only now that it is beginning to be taken seriously. Pet insurance in places like Sweden and the U.K is something pet owners almost take for granted.

Pet insurance covers all kinds of emergencies, injuries and illnesses, as well as visits to the vet's office, prescription fees, tests to diagnose ailments, x-rays, etc. Some cover an unlimited number of accidents and more than 6,000 ailments. And you can get the best treatment from any licensed vet or specialist worldwide. Some employers have started offering pet insurance to potential employees as an incentive; it makes sense, considering more than 30% of Americans stay home when their pets are ill.

Pet Health provides detailed information on Pet Health, Pet Health Insurance, Pet Health Care, Pet Health Advice and more. Pet Health is affiliated with Pet Care Products.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Bailey

Setting Up A Tropical Fish Tank Setup

2006-08-21T10:05:00.000-04:00

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By Greg Edwards

Setting up a tropical fish tank is explained below. Depending upon the fish you are going to keep and other data, modify the procedure according to your requirement.

The equipment needed to set up a tropical fish tank are heater, replacement filter media, aquarium filter, aquarium gravel, and an aquarium along with decorations either real or fake plants.

The amount of effort needed to set up a tropical fish tank is same as having a cat or a dog as pets. Unless you work hard at it, it is not an easy job to set up and maintain a tropical fish tank. Every week maintenance work is to be performed along with frequent change of water. The fish has to be fed at least once in a day. If you do not mind these hard work, then look forward to the pleasure of keeping a tropical fish at home.

Analyze the type of fish which you will put in the aquarium prior to the purchase. Certain types of tropical fish grow up to twelve inches or more in length. If you are sure of the type of fish you will be keeping it will be easier to decide the size of the tank needed. Beginners should start with a ten or twenty gallon aquarium and use it to stock hardier and smaller variety of fish.

The aquarium should not be placed near heater vents or windows so that it will not affect the temperature and light of the tank. The temperature of the tank is affected by the sunlight which enters through windows. Such an exposure to light may lead to algae problems too. The stand which carries the aquarium should be be capable of taking the load and weight of the aquarium.

While buying the aquarium and equipment, decide the type of filter to be used. The heater should be capable of the heating the tank properly. Buy one to one and half pounds of gravel for each gallon of water.

While washing the aquarium do not use detergents or soap and use only water. The tropical fish will be harmed by the left over residue of the soap. The gravel should be washed well before it was placed in the tank. The decorations and plants can be added after the cleaned gravel is placed in the tank.

Flow of water on to the aquarium can be controlled by placing a saucer or plate in the middle and by directing the flow of water to it. Add water which is corresponding to room temperature. Remove all the chemicals in the water including chloramine and chlorine by using suitable removing agent. Do not fill the tank to the brim since when the arm is placed in the aquarium the water will overflow and mess up the surroundings.

Allow nearly 15 minutes so that the heater's thermostat gets adjusted to the temperature of the water and plug all other accessories and turn on the power supply. Wait for a while before putting the fish in to aquarium since the water has to be recycled to a suitable condition. Add only a couple of fish at a time to enable the filters complete the biological process according to the number of fishes thriving in the tank.

Thinking of setting up a tropical fish tank setup? Read Tropical Fish Secrets Definitive Guide.

Visit the website link for more details => Setting Up A Tropical Fish Tank Setup
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How To Choose The Perfect Dog Name For Your Puppy

2006-08-18T09:51:00.000-04:00

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By Richard Cussons

So you've brought home your new puppy, it's time to name your new animal friend but you’re running short on ideas. Choosing a name for your dog can be hard if you aren't feeling very creative, so here we give you a head start with the basics and some great ideas to help you choose the perfect name for your puppy.

Three Basic Dog Name Guidelines

1. Pick a name your dog can easily recognize. Dogs usually respond better to one or two syllable names. If you do want to go for a dramatic and unusual long name, consider whether you can easily shorten it to something a bit simpler for your dog to understand.

2. Avoid dog names that sound like the standard commands of No, Stay, Sit, Come, Down or Fetch. For example "Joe" is probably too close to "No". It can be difficult for dogs to tell the difference between similar sounding words.

3. Choose a name that's both easy to call out and one that you are happy calling out. Remember, you will be calling your dog's name out in public places at times and shouting out “Parsnip“ in the local park, may leave you feeling a little embarrassed! You also want a name that will work well when you are straining your voice to call your pet as he disappears into the sunset chasing after a rabbit!

Looking For Dog Name Inspiration

Start with the obvious. Take a long hard look at your new little friend he may be telling you his name without you knowing. Look at his appearance, behavior, personality, and disposition. Names like Spot or Red may come to mind. How about Bandit for a dog who steals things or Rebel for a stubborn dog?

Then look elsewhere for inspiration. You can name your dog after another famous dog, for example Pluto, Pongo, Lassie or Digby. What about your favourite sports, movie, music or comic strip star?

How about choosing a dog name after a member of your family or friend of a figure from history like Napoleon, Alexander the Great or Rasputin? Take a look at your environment or think about your favourite place they will give you more ideas.

Remember, the dog name you choose for your puppy says as much about you as it does about your pet. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with him. But other people may judge your dog’s character by reference to its name and might therefore react negatively or fearfully to a ‘dominating’ name when meeting it. It is a good idea to use a dog name that conveys the image you want your pet to have.

Also, pick a name that will grow with the pet. For example "Tiny" may be less appropriate for a full-grown dog.

Whichever method you choose, have a good time doing it and choose a name that you will want to keep.

Teaching Your Puppy Its Name

Pick a dog name that pleases you and stick to it. It can be confusing for your puppy if you keep changing your mind. Your dog will learn his or her new name quickly if you use it often. When you call your pet, use his name. Do not say "here puppy". Calling your pet by his name will help him to become familiar with it and with your voice as well.

If choosing a long name keep in mind the shortened version. A long name will inevitably be shortened, but it may ruin the effect that you were originally looking for.

Above all have fun and choose a name you really like. Your puppy will undoubtedly become your best friend and only you can find just the right name.

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about dog names, puppy care and traning at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/dog_names.htm l

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Cussons

Choosing A Unique Dog Name

2006-08-18T09:46:00.000-04:00

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By Andrew Strachan

If you are thinking of getting a new puppy or if you have just bought a dog, it's probably getting to the stage where you are trying to think of a unique name for your new pet. Thinking of a unique name for your dog can be quite difficult, especially when you are not feeling very creative.

When you choose a name, it's important to choose a good one as that name will be with your dog for life. You don't want to give a big strong male dog a cutsie name or similarly a male name to a delicate female dog. To help you get those creative juices flowing and think of a name for your dog, we have a few pointers that may help.

The main thing to consider when tyrying to choose a unique name for your dog, is whether your dog will be able to distinguish his or her name from your normal everyday commands. If you think about it for a moment, calling your dog 'Joe' or 'Boe' may very well confuse your pet when your actually trying to say 'NO'. Other similar sounds are 'Sit', 'Stay', 'Fetch', 'Down' etc.

Try and choose a unique name that is easy for your dog to pick up on. Usually one or two syllabul words are easier to distinguish from background noise especially when your dog gets hard of hearing. Another point to consider when choosing a name, is whether you would feel comfortable calling your dog at the top of your voice in the middle of a crowded park. Novelty names may sound appealing at first but can leave you feeling embarrassed or even worse, unwilling to call your dog when out in public.

Sometimes, waiting a few days after getting your new dog before choosing your unique name can make the process much easier. The reason for this, is that you may pick up on little characteristics of your new dog that will give you some inspiration. If your new puppy loves to steal things and hide them in their bed, how about 'Sinbad'? Maybe your new dog is a brave little soul and has the strength and character of a lion, maybe 'Leo' would suit your new dog.

Another great source of unique dog names, is from books and television. Do you have a favourite cartoon character or a favourite childhood hero? There are literally hundreds of possibilities.

Choosing a unique dog name can be a lot of fun and will endow your dog with a new identity within your family. Take a little time and do a bit of research and you will soon find the perfect name for your new pet.

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about dogs names and different types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com Lots of help and advice too.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Strachan

Cats Make Great Pets If You Understand Them

2006-08-18T09:44:00.000-04:00

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By Ian White

Anyone wanting a new kitten should be a cat lover. Let’s face it, folks, cats are just different from dogs. Cats do not usually perform any special tricks, and they certainly do not guard your possessions while you are away. In fact, the only thing you can be guaranteed of by having a cat is that a mouse won’t last long if they creep into your home.

Cats are loved by many because of their independence. Cats have a life, so to speak. Most cats do not follow you around the home with their tongues hanging out of their mouths waiting on your attention. While they do love their owners fiercely, cats will not grovel like a dog and worship and fawn over their owners. Cats are perfectly content simply being themselves--and they do not seem to need constant reassurance, unlike canines.

This does not mean cats do not need love and affection, it simply means cats are not “fragile” characters. In fact, cats exude a self assurance which can often be misunderstood as aloofness or coldness. Yet, cats are far from aloof or unfeeling. They feel deeply and love deeply. If a cat comes to sit on your lap, you know you are truly loved.

Anytime the family thinks about bringing a new pet into the home, it is exciting. Cats are a favorite of many because as kittens they are so entertaining to watch. Cats have a mind all of their own and only a true cat lover can even claim to understand the psyche of a feline. Cats are mysterious animals, which is part of the draw to them. While cats have been brought into the home, their instincts still remain. Cats adopt their owners and will even go out and provide “dinner.” Many cat owners have stepped out on the stoop to find a dead mouse, opossum, or mole waiting for them. Now, that is love and loyalty!

If you are planning to bring a cat into your home, you should look at it as a life long commitment. Cats can live fifteen years and beyond. You should also understand that as cats mature, they will often sleep and laze around the home. If you are wanting a cat to entertain you throughout her life, you should seriously think about whether a cat is the pet for you. Kittens are very entertaining and young cats are always curious and open for a challenge. However, older cats aren’t easily excitable and usually prefer to watch the antics in the home from a distance.

When you have made the decision to bring a new cat into your home, you will have to decide between a domestic or purebred cat. If you choose to go with a purebred cat, you can be guaranteed of size and appearance, and possibly temperament. There are more than 40 breeds to choose from, so do your homework. You will want to research the grooming requirements of the breed you are considering, along with the general disposition of the breed.

Domestic cats come in all colors and shapes. When you look at any cat, there are some things you should consider. For instance, while all cats are fairly in proportion to each other, there are some cats which are more lanky and lean than others. These cats will be the ones who may be more interested in running and exploration. The chunkier, heavier cat will probably be more laid back and not get into too big a hurry about anything. You have a choice between a domestic long hair or domestic short hair cat.

When picking out your kitten, you should understand that kittens should not have an odor. While puppies do tend to have a smell about them, kittens do not. You should observe the entire litter of kittens. Do any of them have crusty eyes or a runny nose? If so, you may want to reconsider choosing a kitten from that litter. You certainly shouldn’t take one home simply because you feel sorry for it, either. Especially if you have other pets in your home. All of the kittens should have bright and clear eyes and be very alert.

You should handle the kittens. Their fur should be soft and silky, and never stiff or dry. Likewise, their coat should not feel oily or greasy. When you are petting the kitten, you should run your hands along her skin to ensure she has no sores. When you are holding each kitten, place them up to your face and nuzzle them. Listen for any breathing noises. You should not hear any raspy or breathy breathing. If you do, this is possibly a signal that the kitten has a respitory infection.

After visiting with the kittens, instinct will usually dictate to you which kitten is your match. You may feel the rowdy, rambunctious kitten will fit the best into your lively home. Or, you may decide the laid back kitten is more your speed, especially if you have a quiet home. Once you have made your decision and chosen your kitten, you should have a kennel waiting for travel. You should never try to ride in a car with a cat unless they are restrained or in a kennel. While most dogs love car rides, cats tend to scare. They can cower under your feet and this can lead to a wreck.

When you bring your new kitten into your home, you should immediately show her where the litter box, food and water are located. You should also have a supply of cat toys on hand to distract the cat from missing her mom and litter mates. While this cannot entirely be avoided, lavishing attention on a new kitten will do wonders in the transition to her new family.

You should expect your new kitten to explore every nook and cranny in the home. This is a necessary part of a kitten’s disposition. (Even older cats seem to perk up when a new piece of furniture is brought into a home they have lived in for years.) You will want to kitten proof your home. You should keep the lids down on the toilet, and you may want to remove potted plants and the like until your cat learns the rules.

Cats are social creatures, and they can learn the rules of their new environment with consistency. While you may think they do not understand what you are saying, this is not true. If you have a new kitten who wants to walk across the kitchen counter or dining room table, simply rattling a newspaper at her and saying “down” will teach her to stay off. With time you will be able to put the newspaper away and simply speak the command.

Kittens can add joy to any home. Part of the fun is knowing the kitten is oblivious to the fact that she is the center of attention. She is not trying to gain your attention by performing. She is simply being a cat. You should also not be upset if your kitten is not interested in being a lap cat. While she may be content for a few moments on your lap, kittens have to roam, play and explore. As your cat matures she will be more inclined to take it easy curled up on your lap. Until then, just make her feel loved and you will have a feline that will adore you and her new home.

Author Ian White is founder of cat-breeders.biz This extensive online directory includes listings by private breeders, and occasional hobby or family breeders. Those seeking kittens can locate and match with appropriate breeders. Cat-Breeders.biz automates the matching of kittens for sale with kitten wanted entries, with daily email notifications to all parties. Cat Lovers and Breeders find more information
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ian_White

Aisle Safety For Horse Barns

2006-08-17T09:47:00.000-04:00

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By Jason T. Atilia

One of the most overlooked parts of horse barns is the barn aisle. Stalls and tack room are designed with function and comfort, which sometimes lead to poor aisle layout. However, Christine Bakarat, horse enthusiast and designer of several horse barns, insists that barn aisles are just as important as stalls and grooming areas. According to Bakarat, barn aisles serve multiple purposes. Makes sense because for horses, the barns are their living space and driveway in one. Needless to say, barn aisles are high-traffic areas with both equine and human activities. I suggest that you follow Bakarat's simple guidelines in building or redesigning your barns for human and equine safety.

Poorly structured horse barns with improperly maintained aisles are annoying and in most cases, hazardous. The recommended doorway width for barns is eight to twelve feet, depending on the barn area. Ideally, aisles should follow the same width. This enables traffic without overcrowding. Bakarat proposes a simple reference to determine the sufficiency of the width of your barn aisles. First, two horses can pass side by side through it without touching. There should be a comfortable space between the two animals because horses are territorial animals. Second, the aisles are wide enough if a horse can turn around without bumping the stalls. This makes maneuvering horses indoors easier, especially if the feed and tack are inside the barn. Third, a person can pass through the aisle without getting bumped or nipped by the equine occupants of each stall.

Aside from adequate aisle width, ceiling heights should also be considered. Standard heights are pegged at seven and eight feet, but Bakarat insists that ceiling heights depend on the type of horses bred. She offers two options for horse barns which will work for all horses: very high ceilings or ceilings that are very low. Indeed, these are wise options. Why? To give you an idea, suppose that your horse is very active. Low ceilings will discourage it to rear because it lacked space while high ceilings can accommodate its rearing actions without damaging its face.

If you don't have the budget to redesign your horse barns, there are low-budget solutions to improve aisle safety. Improving stable aisles need not be an overhaul of your whole barn. Bakarat suggests that with a few minor changes, your barn aisles can be turned to a safety haven. First, consider your flooring materials. If you are currently using smooth concrete, you are promoting accidents of slippage. Instead, use paver bricks or add a layer of texturized concrete to add traction. Consider using stall mats or dirt floors depending on your budget. Traction is an important aspect of horse barns. Second, install proper lighting. Install light fixtures at heights that horses can't reach to avoid fire hazards. However, make sure that the mounted lights can illuminate every part of the barn, especially the work areas. Halogen and flourescent lights are good options. They shine brighter and require minimal maintenance. Third, avoid excessive clutter. Keep the aisles free of equipment by building a small shed or disposing unnecessary items. Consider and apply these guidelines to keep your barns safe for you and your horses.

For more about Horse barns, please visit http://www.horse-barn.net.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jason_T._Atilia

Treating Arthritis In Dogs

2006-08-15T09:56:00.000-04:00

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By Suellen A. Cazarez

The canine is a marvelous creature and just like humans it is made up of bones, ligaments, and cartilage which must protect internal organs and hold four legs erect. And just like man, mans best friend can suffer too. In fact arthritis in dogs is very common.

The joints play an important role in your dog's walking, running, jumping, and any other movements he makes. The joints are lubricated but when the joints are damaged arthritis can set in.

Dogs just like humans can develop arthritis and treating arthritis in dogs is very similar to treating humans. Learn how to recognize and manage this debilitating disease.

Arthritis in dogs can be very difficult to manage and it can also be a bit difficult to diagnose since dogs don't always show the more common symptoms we are trained to expect. The dog may not limp or they may not appear to be in pain. The symptoms may be much more subtle than that.

The hips is the most common place for arthritis especially in some breeds. Your veterinary can check by taking some pictures. These x-rays and radiographic images will help the vet determine where the deterioration is.

Arthritis is a disease that causes changes to the joint and the tissue surrounding it. It can be caused by an injury to a joint or stress to the area. It may also be the result of a poor immune system. It is the most common cause of hip dysplasia in dogs.

Animals seldom show visible signs that they are suffering. Vets are very good at spotting the subtle behavior changes that we might miss. You need to know and understand your dog's characteristics so that you can easily tell what he wants to do.

Signs of arthritis may involve your pet being stiff after exercise, having trouble getting up and moving, or not wanting to climb the stairs. If your think your pooch has it's important to make an appointment with your vet and not try to self treat.

There are some excellent treatments available for your dog if it suffers from debilitating arthritis. Pfizer makes a drug called Rimadyl or Carprofen. It is the most prescribed treatment on the market with more than 10 million dogs being treated. Of course your vet should run regular blood tests if your dog is on long term anti-inflammatory treatment.

Deramaxx by Novartis is another popular treatment in the NSAID family as is Metacam a liquid form, and EtoGesic. Ask your veterinary which is right for your dog.

You can also do some other things to help make your dog more comfortable. Making sure your dog is not overweight is an important part of managing and treating arthritis. Exercise is also important in maintaining joint mobility and flexibility.

Your dog should have soft cushioned sleeping quarters. Do not place your dog on a hardwood floor or in a dog house. Massage therapy is also a good alternative treatment to help mobility.

There are some great nutritional supplements that you should consider feeding your dog before they develop arthritis and of course if they have arthritis. Glucosamine and Chondrotin formulas are definitely supplements worth feeding to your dog. Make sure you purchase from a manufacturer that is known for their quality product.

Do not make the mistake of thinking a human medication that works for you will be good for your dog. Acetaminophen will damage your dogs liver and Ibruprophin has been linked to gastro bleeding.

Whether your vet decides to treat with surgery or drugs you need to make sure your pet gets lots of rest and that you don't over exercise. Follow your vet's advice and Fido will continue to lead a happy, pain free life.

Suellen has been suffering from arthritis for over 20 years and has researched and tested numerous techniques from arthritis medical journals. She prides herself in keeping up to date with the latest arthritis remedy as well as medical developments in this field and she shares her knowledge with you at http://www.awoscentral.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Suellen_A._Cazarez

Tropical Fish

2006-08-11T11:26:00.000-04:00

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By Sandro Azzopardi

So many elements effect the raising of tropical fish. Choosing the right ones and making the right decisions is crucial for success. Setting up an aquarium, selecting the fish, plants and algae, feeding the fish and breeding the fish are the major aspects of this hobby.

Aquarium

The aquarium elements depend on the fish one intends to have. Many parts form an aquarium and they all need to be considered seriously before they are selected:
Glass – Gravel - Hood – Heater – Thermometer – Bulbs – Filters - Cleaning Equipment – Nets – Water Test Kit – Small Container

Selecting the Fish

You can opt to have only one type of tropical fish. Problems are limited if you choose to go that way. But with tropical fish, many believe, variety is an essential element in raising fish in an aquarium.

One needs to be very careful when deciding which fish to raise in one’s own aquarium. It is obvious that not all fish get along with each other well, and selecting the right fish is a crucial decision one needs to make. Research on various tropical fish in respect of habits and behaviour is a must before hurrying to the store.

Buying the fish

Once at the store, there are many things to look for. Here is a list of guidelines:
1. Don’t buy fish which reside in dirty tanks
2. Watch out for white spots and eaten fins
3. Fish eyes should be clear
4. Movement should be linear with their fins in an upright position
5. No dead fish in the tank

Plants and Algae

By many ignored, but a very important aspect for tropical fish is to have the right plants and algae in the fish habitat. The ideal is to get rooted plants with roots already in place. This way, fish are provided with plants straight away and their survival rate is much higher. Ideally, tall plants are placed at the rear corners of the aquarium and the smaller and shorter ones at the front.

Several types of plants and algae exist, and choosing will always depend on your likings and on the character of the fish one intends to have.

Feeding the fish

Feeding tropical fish is an art in itself. Many fish don’t die because of lack of food, but as a result of food abundance. Giving the right amount of food is important as selecting the food. The market for tropical fish food is quite large and there are foods for several types of fish.

Breeding

There is only one way fish can breed in your aquarium, that is, giving them the right environment to do so. There isn’t better proof that the aquarium is in good shape than having fish breed in it. You can see when one has done a good job by the results the fish themselves will give to the owner.

There are so many tropical fish that one can never feel completely fulfilled as there is always some species one would like to have as part of his/her collection. The other items that form part pf having tropical fish, like the aquarium itself, the plants involved, and the various accessories, make this hobby a vast and interesting one without ever getting bored.

Sandro Azzopardi is a professional author who writes several articles on various subjects on his web site and local newspapers and magazines. You can visit information about this article and others on: http://www.theinfopit.com/science/animals/tropicalfish.php

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sandro_Azzopardi

Tips for Your Pet Bird's First Month Home

2006-08-10T16:29:00.000-04:00

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By Stacy Richford

For any new pet moving to a new home can be a very traumatic experience and in some cases even more so for a pet bird. Many times if bird was hand fed as a baby it may have stronger attachments then other birds. However if you take the time setting up your birds new environment properly with some extra care, it will a bit easier for your pet bird to make the adjustment to it's new home.

One of the most important things you should first do when you bring your new bird home is to place its cage in an area that does not have an over abundance of activity or confusion. Even though we are trying to make sure our new friend doesn't feel like he is caught up in the middle of all the household action. We also want to make sure that he does not feel all alone by putting him in some unused room by him self. Ideally you want to find a spot in your home where he can still interact with you, but there won't be constant loud noises or lots of sudden movements that can continually startle him.

In situations where you already have another bird in your home, it would be best to segregate your new arrival for about thirty days. The reason you want to do this is to help ensure that if your new bird has an infectious disease, you won't infect your original bird. When creating a quarantine for your bird, it would be best to keep him on floor in a completely different room of the house. Also make sure to keep their food and water dishes apart and do not interchange them even after washing. If your home has a central air conditioning system, you may have difficulty being able to ensure a true quarantine. Since these kinds of air conditioning system employ air duct systems which carry the air from one room to other rooms in the house. Regardless it is still a good idea to quarantine the new bird than immediately putting exposing him to your original pet even if you have air ducts.

You should also make sure that any new bird you bring home is in good health. So be sure to take him to your local avian veterinarian for a general check up. Your veterinarian will be able to check and make sure that your new pet bird is free of any contagious diseases, worms or bacterial infections. This is even more important in cases were you have a hand fed baby bird, the reason being is that if the bird wasn't properly hand fed it is at a higher risk for having a bacterial infection.

When ever you bring a new bird home you should closely monitor their eating habits during their initial adjustment period. If you notice that your bird doesn't seem to be eating at all during the initial twenty four hours, you should try and offer him some spray millet. Spray millet is pretty much a dessert for birds. Another option is to offer him a whole grain cereal which may coax a frightened bird into eating. If you just brought home a newly weaned baby bird and he is not eating and is also making various squalling noises, your new bird may have regressed some and will need to be hand fed slightly longer. In these situations call your breeder for assistance.

If for some reason you cannot get in contact with your breeder, odds are you can buy some hand feeding formula from your local pet shop. To use the formula simply mix up a tiny quantity of the hand feeding formula until it reaches a consistency close to that of pudding. Then offer some of the mixture to your bird by putting some of the formula on a plastic spoon. If all is well he should eat it right off the spoon.

Lastly, you should not be afraid to interact with your new pet bird, just make sure you don't get out of hand and overdo it. At first you should only try to work with him for 10 minutes at a time and no more. If he continually flies away and you notice your self having to chase and catch him, Just put him away back in his cage for a bit until he starts to calm down. Every time you chase and catch your bird it cause him some stress, which is something we are trying to minimize for our new friend.

For more information on caring for your parrot or parakeet or any pet bird visit us at http://pet-birds.lifestyle-web.net
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stacy_Richford

Find Out How Cat Allergy Depends On Cat Breeds

2006-08-09T10:08:00.000-04:00

By: Lindsay Robertson
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If you are one of those persons who have allergies due to cats, here is information on how different sort of cat breeds influence your reactions.

To begin with you must remember that the majority of individuals cannot tolerate the saliva of a cat and not the cat’s hair. Cats are constantly grooming themselves, resulting in saliva spreading to all the parts of their hairy bodies. This hair could be found all around the room or vicinity and can trigger an allergy. Even those cats which are “hairless” will carry saliva on their bodies, creating what is called “dander.”

In an average home the amount of “dead skin” scattered inside would amaze you. A human being rebuilds new skin every two to three weeks, so the upper most layers of skin is constantly wearing off resulting in the accumulation of a lot of dust. The same holds true for cats, dogs and other animals. Hence it becomes important to keep your house clean and vacuum regularly to keep a check on this dust.

Cats with hair

All the cats with hair on their bodies will inevitably have saliva on their hair. The cat will lick itself and then the hair will fall off. It’s absolutely necessary to tidy the house of all the hair and vacuum the rooms so as not to cause any problem to an allergic member. We possess a “Roomba” that wanders around each single day – and it is just amazing how much cat hair it gathers on a singular day. And we have just two cats at home.

You need to chalk out a hair management system, if you have a cat with hair. If we clean up just a week, we see all the hair. But if vacuum everyday, then it becomes easier to keep the house clean and tidy. I have observed a big difference in my day to day “responses” on the basis of the levels of hair.

Cats without hair

Many people wrongly think that cats without hair can cause no allergy. Generally, I do not judge a pet by its capability to cause allergies, but I suppose I can feel it if you have swollen glands or eyes, that you would like to look for an alternative. All through life you will come across many things that can cause allergies, but pets are so adorable that they can compensate for a little bit of puffiness. Having said that, let me mention that cats without any hair do not rid you of any “allergy” problems. The allergies originate from the tongues. So a cat without hair does not mean a cat without allergies!

So in this case there would not be floating hair all around – it is the dander of cat that would cause the allergy. All creatures that breathe shed and renew their skin. As a human individual you shed skin every two or three weeks, so there would be lot of dead skin fluttering around if you do not clean properly. Other pets including cats go through the same process. So it is crucial to keep your house neat and tidy to keep those allergens at bay.

About the Author:Visit the following sites for more info on cat allergy, cat allergy symptoms and cat allergy treatments.

Horsfields Tortoise Indoor Care -- Testudo horsfieldi

2006-08-08T10:39:00.000-04:00

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By Chris M Jones

General Information

Also known as Russian Tortoises, these are among the most commonly seen tortoises in the pet trade today. Thousands of juveniles are exported from Russia every year. Horsfields tortoises are small, reaching approximately 15cm long or a maximum of 20cm. Being a Russian species, they make an excellent choice for UK keepers. They can tolerate the English weather and will hibernate over the winter period. The shell is a light olive brown colouration, with darker brown blotches. The head and legs are a lighter, yellowish brown.

Housing

It is recommended that for the first few years of your Horsfields tortoise life, you keep it indoors in a controlled environment. A perfect enclosure would be an open top, box style enclosure measuring L120cm x W60cm x H45cm. This box can be constructed from a number of materials, although melamine coated wood is preferable.

These tortoises need a dry substrate with the ability to dig. They are persistent diggers and like to build their own burrows to hide in. It is not essential to provide a deep substrate, but preferable. The choice of substrate really depends on you as a keeper, however you must bare in mind that it must be kept dry at all times. Horsfields tortoises do not tolerate damp surroundings and will slowly deteriorate if kept under these conditions. Sand, soil, mulch, fine gravel and Repti-turf are all good substrates for your tortoise.

Heating and lighting is vital for your tortoise to grow a healthy shell and live a long life. Horsfields tortoises are a diurnal species and therefore require UVA and UVB rays normally gained through the suns rays. A two in one heat / UV bulb is the best option and should sit no further than 12” higher than where the tortoise will bask. This heated area should reach approximately 90˚F, allowing the opposite end of the enclosure to drop to around 75˚F.

Décor is an important part of enriching your tortoise’s life. By placing some foliage, rocks, wood and other items in your enclosure, your tortoises mind will be more stimulated and it will allow for more exercise. Be careful not to place any objects in the enclosure where the tortoise could accidentally fall up-side down in an area where it could not turn itself upright again.

Many keepers choose not to place water into the enclosure. Rather, they bathe the tortoise every few days allowing for an adequate drinking and cleaning session. It does not matter too much whether you do this or not. However, water must be accessible to your tortoise at least twice a week. If you place a water bowl in your enclosure, it must be shallow and have easy access in and out of it. Be careful not allow spillage either, as damp surroundings is not tolerated well.

Feeding

Horsfield tortoises are generally very good feeders, and eat almost anything you could put in front of it. Many keepers will place a variety of foods into a shallow bowl and place it in the same spot every day. Try to stay away from this habit; it is important to stimulate the tortoise and make it work for its food. Spread the food out across the enclosure and offer different feeding methods. For instance, put a cabbage leaf higher up on the wall of the enclosure. This will force the tortoise to stretch its head upwards and pull chunks off the leaf.

Most fruit and vegetables can be fed with little problem. However, certain foods should be avoided. Such foods include iceberg lettuce and tomato. These have little nutrition and will often give your tortoise diarrhoea. Some of the best foods include: greens, romaine lettuce, kale, shredded carrots and kale. Fruits such as apple, banana, strawberries, blackberries and pears can also be fed, although should be limited. Specialist tortoise diets are an excellent addition to a tortoise keeper’s cupboard. They can be fed every day, although this is not stimulating for your tortoise and should only be fed sporadically between fresh food feedings.

Supplementing your foods with calcium and mineral dusting powders are vital, along with UV rays these will help ensure your tortoises shell and bones are kept strong and healthy. Reptavite dusting powder, specially formulated for tortoises is an ideal supplement.

By Chris Jones

Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.

http://www.petclubuk.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones

The Best Dog Training Books

2006-08-07T09:40:00.000-04:00

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By Morgan Hamilton

Why is it that my neighbor can't seem to figure out that when he locked his untrained puppy and goes off to work all day that the dog does nothing to bark, bark and bark. What an idiot, a neighbor I mean, not that the dog. I don't blame the little puppy, how is he supposed to know better? He barks out of loneliness, out of frustration, out of anxiety, and out of fear. Occasionally he barks to protect his territory, pitiful as it is with its leftover poop, a water bowl turned over, and a single ratty chew toy the dog outgrew the first week it was brought to the house. I wonder if this moron has ever heard of dog-training books? I know I'm about ready to clue him in.

When your fat freak of a self gets home, you enter your house—to the barking—and take your sweet time (to eat) before retrieving your supposedly beloved pet. Then you take the were animal off and sequester it into some room or he is once again all alone. Instead of paying an idiot and doing the dog a great disservice you could be reading one of the many EASY-to-comprehend dog-training books, and teach that beautiful little animal how to cope with daily life.

He is after all just a baby. You could be surfing amazon.com or powells.com or another of the hundreds of Internet bookshops for dog-training books. They number in the thousands. That will show you how to condition your dog not to bark at every living being and every leaf that happens to fall from a tree. No, you fat ignoramus, amazon.com is not a place to find amazons to amuse you, and powells.com is not a play on words for closet masochists. This is about the dog, not you. If it were we would be talking to the dog—who clearly has a great deal more sense than you apparently do.

In fact, you could read at least one of the thousands of general and specific dog-training books to understand WHY your poor little puppy needs to be treated. HOW you can keep him from chewing furniture (so you don’t have an excuse anymore for why you lock him away outside so he won’t bother you but the neighbors instead). We need to get up and go to work too. The constant barking doesn't do anyone any good. If you can't handle owning a dog then maybe you should find a more hospitable home for it.

We chose to be dog-less. You have made a choice…now take some damned responsibility for it. By some dog-training books and read them, put them into action. You may even be well served by some damned human-training books. The problem lies with you, not the dog.

Morgan Hamilton offers his findings and insights regarding pets. You can get interesting and informative information here at Dog Training Books
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Morgan_Hamilton

Pet Health Alert! Chocolate Poisoning In Dogs

2006-08-04T10:07:00.000-04:00

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By Greg Cryns

Cocoa beans, cocoa bean shells, cola and tea contain a natural
ingredient called theobromine that can kill your pet when
ingested. Dogs often cannot metabolize this fast enough to
avoid poisoning. The amount of bakers chocolate to produce the
adverse reaction is about 1 ounce for every 2 pounds of dog
weight.

If your dog has symptoms of diarrhea and vomiting along with
lethargy and muscle tremors you should want to take him to the
vet quickly. If you are sure your dog has eaten chocolate do
not wait for the symptoms to appear. In that case poisoning is
very likely to occur and you may lose your pet if you hesitate
to take action.

Dogs love sweet products. Make sure to keep your chocolates in
tightly closed containers placed high up where they cannot
reach them. Be particularly careful on holidays like Christmas
or Halloween when dogs can easily pick up chocolates off the
floor.

Cocoa bean mulch also contains theobromine. Garden retailer
suppliers do wash this product before selling it but the best
practice is not to allow your dog near this product.

The ASPCA now has a new service providing pre-recorded
information on more than 125 petcare topics, including health
issues and behavioral problems: 1-888-252-7387 (24hrs)

If your dog has symptoms of diarrhea and vomiting along with
lethargy and muscle tremors you should want to take him to the
vet quickly. If you are sure your dog has eaten chocolate do
not wait for the symptoms to appear. In that case poisoning is
very likely to occur and you may lose your pet if you hesitate
to take action.

Dogs love sweet products. Make sure to keep your chocolates in
tightly closed containers placed high up where they cannot
reach them. Be particularly careful on holidays like Christmas
or Halloween when dogs can easily pick up chocolates off the
floor.

Cocoa bean mulch also contains theobromine. Garden retailer
suppliers do wash this product before selling it but the best
practice is not to allow your dog near this product.

About the Author: Greg Cryns is the owner of
http:http://www.gochihuahua.com Go Chihuahua addresses issues
for chihuahuas and other dog breeds Greg is also the founder of
http://www.nursingprogramsonline for nurses and
http://www.go-law-school for lawyers

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Caring for Your Betta Fish

2006-08-03T15:44:00.000-04:00

By Brad McCleary
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When you saw him at the pet store you know you had to save him, and now you need to know how to care for your betta fish! You couldn’t help but buy the betta fish, seeing its beauty stuffed inside that little cup with no room to move. I don’t blame you; they are an absolutely beautiful fish. They look so crammed and lonely inside that little cup. You took the first step by taking him home and doing a really good thing for the little guy; now let’s just hope you continue to take care of him.

Taking care of anything is not nearly as easy as the pet store would make it seem. They buy betta in mass quantities, stick them in the little cups, and display them with the intention of selling them before anything bad happens. If one dies they just throw it out and they’ve already raised the price enough on the others to cover their losses. So believe me when I say you did a good thing. Now, on to caring for your betta.

First Tip

Buy a good fish aquarium. Bettas don’t need a lot of room, but much more than a cup! The bigger you decide to go with the tank the better. It will be easier to take care of and you never know, you might want to house some other Betta-compatible fish with it later on. Give the aquarium a rock bottom, preferable rock intended for aquariums, and clean it thoroughly.

Second Tip

Buy an adequate filter for the aquarium, especially if you have more than one fish. This costs a little more but makes your job, and the Betta’s life a lot easier. The filter will help keep the water cleaner longer and you will only need to buy replacement cartridges every month or so. This will also keep the water quality consistent for the fish.

Third Tip

You only need to feed your fish once a day, twice at the absolute most. This is where many people go wrong, they keep dumping flake after flake into the tank. The fish will overeat and that’s not even the biggest problem. By overfeeding your Betta, the food will drop to the bottom and become waste and eventually poison the water.

Four Tip

The majority of Betta deaths are cause by poor water conditions. As long as you filter your water and do a 20% water change every month, you should not have any problems with water quality. If you suspect bad water conditions, especially in the beginning while the water is acclimating, you can and should test the water. It can take up to eight weeks to get the water acclimated and from there it should stay in a safe range. You should always do your homework before purchasing anything, but since you’re reading this you’ve probably already purchased your Betta.

I know exactly how you feel I’ve gotten all my pets from impulse or at least with very little planning. It is now up to you to get all this information straightened out and take care of your Betta. Don’t worry; there are many books out there to assist.

If you’d like a great guide for taking care of your Betta visit http://www.we-review-for-you.com/rbettafish.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brad_McCleary

How to Buy a Horse Online - Top Ten Tips

2006-08-02T10:02:00.000-04:00

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By Jennifer McCleary

Buying horses online is quickly becoming a very common and rewarding practice in the equine world. There are many different search engines for selling horses that buyers can utilize for free. You can view horses all over the world from the comfort of your own home. Practically anyone can view a listing online so you don’t have to rely strictly on the expensive publication, which can be very expensive and very limited.

Although buying a horse online can be very easy, it is an intimidating process if you’ve never done it before. How do I find a horse? Is it safe? How much does it cost? How do I work with out of town sellers? You like many others out there are asking yourself these same questions.

I have been involved with horses since I was a little girl, so I understand the equine business. I know what like to be limited to your geography with looking for a horse. There are so many great deals out there, I want to help people answers these questions and more so we can remove the fear of searching for a horse online. Below I have listed the ten most useful tips for buying your horse online.

1. Search on multiple high traffic equine websites.

It costs nothing to search online for horses to buy. You can view many different horses at one stop, and most are categorized by breed/type for your convenience. Just type in what you want and hundreds of options appear. Much easier than scanning the local classifieds.

2. Look for ads with photo and video options.

If the ad site offers ads with photo or video insertions, view them. This can give you a good idea of whether or not this horse is something that interests you. Look for ads with more than one photo posted. This will give you a more accurate view of the horse. Also check for sites that post video files. This can be an valuable resource!

3. If there is not a video posted on the website, request that one be sent to you.

Ask that they video the horse being loaded, bathed, clipped, groomed, tied, and turned out in addition to being ridden in all of the disciplines that it is capable of. Seeing a video is very valuable because it allows you to view the horse without having to travel. A video does not replace an actual visit, but can help you decide if it is worth the trip.

4. If you are interested in the horse check with the horses registry or saddle club to make sure that the horse is registered with the person who is selling it.

It is sad to say that there are dishonest people out there. You want to make sure that the person selling the horse is legally able to sell the horse. It would be terrible to buy a horse and then find out that the horse had been stolen before being sold to you. You can also check to see if the horse has a microchip, tattoo, or brand. These are other resources that you can utilize to make sure that the horse is rightfully being sold.

5. If you are very interested in the horse, make an appointment to see the horse.

Even if you are out of state, it is worth it to make the trip. Horses can be a very expensive investment and it is not wise to purchase a horse before being able to ride it.

Request that the horse not be ridden before you get there (on the day that you arrive). This way you can see how the horse behaves when it is fresh out of the stall or pen. Also, this will give you a chance to groom and tack the horse. This way you can observe the horses ground manners and how comfortable you are around the horse.

Make sure that you ride the horse for an adequate time to feel comfortable with the horse. Take the horse through each gate, as well as exercises to see how well the horse will respond to your cues. If you have a trainer it is a good idea to take them along for a consultation.

6. If you are close enough to make multiple visits, and you are interested in buying the horse, go out to see the horse unannounced.

By visiting the owner unannounced, you are guaranteed to see the horse in a natural state (make sure it hasn’t been drugged). Tell the owner that you were in the area and thought that you would stop by and see if they had time to show the horse. If they say they don’t have time, then ask if you could schedule a more convenient time. Be polite and respectful of the owner’s time restraints. A lot of the time the owner will be glad to show there horse, especially if they are anxious to sell.

If the horse is at a private residence, try to be very conscious of the time that you go out, weekends are usually best. If no one is there, do not try to view the horse. Make sure to find the owner of the property before you go any where near the horse. If the horse is at a boarding facility, ask for the owner of the horse, or the barn manager before you try to view the horse. It is very important to keep your safety in mind when making visits to an unfamiliar horse facility.

7. If you are ready to buy the horse, the next step is to have the horse vet checked.

This usually will cost you money, and that is why I have listed it after you have ridden the horse. Have a vet that you trust perform an overall check on the horse. The biggest thing to focus on is soundness.

If there is any doubt of the soundness of the horse, I think it is worth the expense to have ex-rays done on the horse. If there is a soundness problem with the horse, I would recommend not buying the horse.

If you still want the horse, discuss with the vet how much treatment would cost and then offer a reduced price accordingly. I have purchased many horses with “leg problems” and have found that if you have the knowledge to treat the horse, and you can get a greatly reduced price, it can be worth it. Just be aware of how much work, and money, that will be involved.

8. If the vet/soundness check comes out well, check to make sure the horse has current vaccinations and coggins papers.

If the horse is not up to date on vaccinations or coggins, make sure that the owner has those things taken care of, and documentation to prove that they have been done. If you do not have vaccination history or current coggins papers, do not purchase the horse, or bring the horse to your barn. The horse could be infected and will spread infections to your other horses.

9. When you do buy your horse, require a purchase agreement.

Make sure that both parties understand and agree to the contract. Detail who is responsible for what (delivering the horse, vet checks, etc.). Also make sure you know what kind of payment they will accept. Many people will not accept a personal check so be prepared to get a cashiers check, or money order.

It is not advised to pay in cash because there is no way to track the money. Also, if you give a deposit to hold the horse, make sure that you write up a separate agreement for the terms of the deposit. Make sure that you have the original, signed copies of the document. Do not accept a fax or copy. It is a good idea to have both you and the owner sign two copies of the agreement. That way you both have an original, signed copy.

10. After you have purchased the horse make sure that you have a bill of sale, the original papers, and a transfer of papers slip filled out from the owner.

Transfer the horse’s papers into your name immediately. With a bill of sale, and the papers in your name, you can guarantee that the horse is rightfully, and legally yours.

Overall, buying a horse online can be a very rewarding experience. I have purchased over 20 horses and they have all been positive experiences. I have found good horses for very good prices. I have researched many advertising sites and have found what I consider to be the best. Visit http://www.we-review-for-you.com/redirecthorse.htm l for more information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_McCleary

Pet Friendly Vacation Rentals and Holiday Homes

2006-07-31T09:53:00.000-04:00

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By: Milan Matchev

Pets are an integral part of ones family, especially for all pet lovers. So, when a family goes on vacation it is considered that the pet goes along. All vacation planning thus includes the pets and pet friendly vacations and travel planning make more sense. According to statistics, 60 million households in the USA are proud pet owners. About 15 million or 25% of these pet owners travel on vacations with their pets and stay in pet friendly lodgings. For the convenience of these pet owners pet friendly hotels, vacation home rentals and condos are available across many locations. The following are a few tips to keep in mind while traveling with a pet.

1. While making your vacation rental or hotel reservations, make sure you double-check that pets are permitted. Make sure that you get the “pets allowed” receipt for your reservation either online or through normal mail channels. Verbal assurances cannot be relied upon.

2. The next step is to get your pet acquainted with traveling. One can achieve this by using the car. Get the pet into the car and make sure you play with it to make it relax. After a while, take it for a short drive. Increase the length of the drives bit by bit, so that the pet gets used to long drives that you may take on most vacations.

3. Keeping the safety factor foremost in mind, make sure you get your pet to get used to being secured inside the car. Securing harness can be bought from the local pet stores.

4. Make sure you pet is properly tagged with the identification containing the pet’s name, owners name and the phone number, preferably your vacation rental’s or cell phone number. This will ensure that the pet is returned to you easily in case it wanders off in new surroundings. Make sure you have a photograph of your pet handy, so that in case of a loss, enquiries are easier.

5. Always check with your vet before the vacation, if any vaccinations are needed to suit the environment of your destination. If your pet is a dog, make sure you carry the up-to-date rabies tag on its collar. It could be required in many places.

6. Upon arrival at the pet friendly vacation rental always inform the check-in person or staff that you have a pet along with you. Make sure you understand and follow the rules of the place regarding pet restricted areas in the vacation rentals.

7. Never let the pet use the furniture in the pet friendly vacation rental for sitting or sleeping unless covered with your own sheet. Use the bathroom for placing water and food containers over an old newspaper to facilitate cleaning up.

8. Avoid leaving the pet unattended in a pet friendly vacation rental. If you have to do so, please inform the clerk or the rental agent of the same. Make sure you pet is secured while doing so lest it may surprise or hurt the vacation rental staff.

Traveling and vacationing with pets can be fun, if you use a little commonsense and care while doing so.

Pet Friendly Vacation Rental - Holiday Homes and Vacation Rentals where you can thake your dog or cat with you - leader in luxury vacation rentals worldwide, with an extensive portfolio of luxury villas and homes. To place a Pet friendly holiday home free advertisement or find the perfect lodging for you - visit pet-friendly-vacationrentals.com

Miniature Horse Tack

2006-07-29T16:58:00.000-04:00

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By Richard Romando

Miniature horses are one of the fastest-growing equine breeds in the world today. These elegant and cute horses, no taller than 38 inches (from the withers to the last hairs), are attracting a lot of attention. They can be bred like regular horses and even ridden.

Miniature horses require tack similar to a regular horse. It includes bits, carts and wagons, harnesses, saddles, bridles, reins, halters, girths or cinches, martingales and other accessories, but in smaller sizes than for normal horses. Most miniature horse tack equipment is made of fine leather for strength and durability. Some accessories such as curb straps and stirrup hobbles are also available in different colors, such as natural, light, dark, black, and burgundy.

Prices of miniature horse tack differ based on the material, size and model. A floral-embossed saddle with 8-inch suede seat may be priced at around $125, while a blanket and a girth may cost around $14 and $7, respectively. A miniature Western saddle with or without tooling and an 8-inch suede seat is priced at approximately $200. A bridle may cost around $25 and a miniature Eggbutt bit may be priced at around $20, while a 3.5-inch stainless steel Eggbutt snafflebit may cost around $30. A leather halter may cost $12, while a nylon halter may be priced at around $8. An entire English tack set comprising of saddle, bridle and pad is also available for just $200. Some manufacturers are also offering custom-made miniature horse tacks as per the exact size of the horse.

There are also some stores that offer miniature horse tack on discount. Prices would be slashed as much as 20-30%. Miniature horse tack accessories can also be bought over the Internet. There are several sites that have exclusive products featured for miniature horses. Products can be compared and even ordered online.

Horse Tack provides detailed information on Horse Tack, Discount Horse Tack, Horse Tack for Sale, Miniature Horse Tack and more. Horse Tack is affiliated with Cartoon Penguins.

Survey: Canines Are Kings of the Castle

2006-07-28T10:46:00.000-04:00

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(NewsUSA)- Ever wonder what your dog does while you're away? A new survey shows that most dogs are enjoying the comforts of home: Nearly 70 percent of dog owners say their dogs spend at least half their time hanging around indoors.

When asked what their dogs do all day, 66 percent of American dog owners thought their dogs lounged the day away, while only 9 percent imagined their pets romping with toys.

Many dogs have a lot of freedom in the home, according to the survey, which was conducted by Ipsos Public Affairs on behalf of Purina Little Bites Indoor Complete brand. Thirty-six percent of dog owners allow their dogs into every room in the house, as long as they follow special rules, while 28 percent of dog owners offer their pups free reign over the entire house.

The majority of dog owners surveyed said their pets spend most of the day sleeping, so diet is a special consideration for these dogs, who might not expend the same amount of energy as their outdoor counterparts.

Inside dogs can benefit from a high-protein food, such as Purina Little Bites Indoor Complete, which is specially formulated for indoor dogs to help maintain lean muscle mass and ideal body condition. Vitamin E and minerals also help keep the skin and coat healthy, as indoor dogs can be prone to dry skin.

What about home decor? How much does Fido influence your decorating? The survey showed that 31 percent of all dog owners decorate with their dogs in mind. Generations X and Y are at the forefront of this trend; 41 percent of dog owners between the ages of 18 and 34 have dog-friendly decor.

Perhaps it's the practicality that appeals. After all, if your pooch is home all day, it's wise to invest in a little stain-resistant flooring or scratch-proof furnishings. If money were no object, 63 percent of dog owners surveyed would buy furniture that resists shedding, stains and tears. And 75 percent would buy their pampered pups all new furniture of their very own.

For more information on the survey and nutrition for dogs, visit www.longliveyourdog.com .

The Basics Of Parrot Adoption

2006-07-27T15:44:00.000-04:00

By Lee Dobbins
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Parrots are just about one of the most charming species of animals on the planet. You can actually talk to them. Who cares if they are programmed to speak certain words? At least it is much more amusing to spend time watching TV alone at home with a cheery and chirping voice to startle you out of your boredom from time to time. Parrots are really unique, and so are the mechanisms of caring and adopting them as your own.

Parrot adoption is one of the popular hobbies of the rich and famous. But you don’t really have to be filthy rich to be able to decently care for one. Not one too many a Hollywood film has depicted the presence of these charming parrots under the tutelage of famous stars and added to the visual appeal of the movies. However, there is more to parrot rearing than the stuff we see those actors do on screen. For all we know, they don’t even know how to care for parrots the moment the camera stops rolling!

There are already some organizations which capitalize on the endeavor of parrot adoption. Not every Joe and Jane is qualified to adopt a parrot. These organizations all have standards, depending on the breed of the parrot to be cared for and the policies which govern their mission and vision statement.

Some training will be required for one to become eligible for parrot adoption. Parrots are unique, as I have said earlier, and they require a special level of care and attention. They have different behavioral patterns in addition to the basics of caring for birds, in general. Not knowing about these behavioral patterns is a no-no for every soon-to-be parrot guardian. To know as much as possible about the parrot to be adopted is by far one of the things the parrot adoption organizations never fail to emphasize to every budding owner.

Caring for a parrot can even be more of a collaborative effort. The parrot adoption organization will not allow you to adopt their parrots if they don’t find your residence conducive enough for the parrot. For example, a certain person in your house may not necessarily share your passion for parrots and be potentially harmful to the parrot if ever it gets deployed in your home. The organization not only screens the potential owner’s capability to take care and train on basic concepts in caring for parrots, but also the overall environment from which the parrot will be made to grow.

Prices for adoption vary according to size and in line with this, every parrot owner wannabe must be ready for the extra budget that caring for a parrot will require. The parrot adoption organizations available in the country often make use of contracts to secure the safety of the parrot. These may include mandatory regular veterinarian checkups and all those maintenance stuff they don’t really show you in the movies. Some organizations may even request refunds for earlier maintenance. To reduce nervous breakdowns and misunderstandings over payments, learn as much about the organization’s policies before deciding to start applying for eligibility for parrot guardianship.

Aside from the mere enthusiasm of talking to a bird, more serious motivations for parrot adoption (such as the desire to preserve natural life) are also becoming more rampant these days. The more passionate individuals who labored on rescuing the more extinct of these parrot breeds are more than willing to share the rewarding load to people who have a heart for the same cause.

Adults who are often dealt with psychological depressions are often advised to keep a pet. Parrots may be a good choice, since their cheery quips can definitely jolt any person out of his misery. When well-trained, parrots can even help out in their own small ways, i.e. welcoming guests in the home or entertaining them.

Having a pet parrot can also do wonders to kids. However, they need to be well-guided by parents as they do so. If done the right way, parrot adoption for kids may serve to be one of their most rewarding childhood memories. Being responsible for menial tasks such as feeding and training the parrot to speak certain words not only makes any kid happy, but it builds a sense of responsibility which will benefit him or her in the long run and beyond the life span of the parrot itself.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://pet-birds.pet-breeds.com where you can learn about parrots and other pet birds
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Dobbins

Dog Treat Recipes

2006-07-26T09:56:00.000-04:00

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By Elizabeth Morgan
Dog lovers may want to give their pet dogs some treats to reward their good behavior. Take your pick from these various dog treat recipes.

Homemade dog biscuit recipes include peanut butter, eggs, and flour with bone meal. Cheesy dog biscuits include cheddar cheese, chicken broth, whole wheat flour, cornmeal and oats, while bacon flavored dog treats make use of whole wheat flour, milk, eggs and bacon fat for flavor. There are also microwavable dog biscuits that use a variety of flours including cracked wheat, rye, and whole wheat.

Vegetarian treat recipes include vegetarian dog biscuits which use peanuts for the dog’s protein source. Vegan dog biscuit recipes and doggie Christmas cookies also include peanut butter, honey, cornmeal, and flour.

Copper cookie cutters in fun shapes, such as big and small dog bones, cows, roosters, and squirrels will make fine dog treats that you can make into biscuit treats for your four-legged friend.

If you love baking for your dog, there are homemade breads and cookie recipes that you can follow. These recipes include peanut butter bones, chicken and honey biscuits, big boy beef biscuits, and everyday biscuits. Other dog treats include parmesan herb treats, apple cinnamon drops, whole wheat cream cheese Danish, peanut butter and honey oat crunchies, and beef biscuits. It is important to invest in high quality baking sheets that have a non stick finish to come up with these treats.

Kindly note that dog treat recipes should be healthy for both young and old dogs. These include gourmet biscuit recipes that are delicious, economical, and healthy for the dog. Remember that not all food that is good for human consumption is good also for dogs. Some food can cause allergic reactions such as itchy skin, rashes, coat problems, and dull, thinning hair in dogs.

Before following recipes for dog treats, review first the ingredients to ensure that they are safe for consumption by your dog. Please note that seemingly harmless substances may prove fatal to your dog.

Dog Treats provides detailed information on Dog Treats, Dog Treat Recipes, Homemade Dog Treats, Gourmet Dog Treats and more. Dog Treats is affiliated with Dog Chew Toys.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Morgan

Learning About Snake Facts And Behaviors

2006-07-25T09:45:00.000-04:00

By: Stephanie Davies

Snakes are probably the most misunderstood, and most illogically feared creatures on the planet. Of the 2,200-plus species of snakes in the world, fewer than 20 percent are venomous. People have an instinctual fear of snakes that stems back for thousands of years. It probably started out as a survival instinct, when there was no literature or way of telling which snakes were harmful or not. On the other hand, biblical literature has encouraged us to fear snakes for an entirely different reason. Other people simply misunderstand snakes, thinking that they are slimy, nasty creatures.

The first thing to know about snakes is that any non-venomous snake will only bite you for 3 reasons. First, if you smell like food. If you have recently handled a warm-blooded animal, such as mice, guinea pigs, even cats, the snake may smell that on you and mistake you for something edible. Second, if the snake feels you are a predator that is trying to harm it. Especially when reaching down towards a snake, the snake can misinterpret you for something trying to eat it. Thirdly, and the most likely reason non-venomous snakes bite, is simply because they are afraid. When given the choice between biting at you (the 5-6 foot tall giant that just stepped into it’s territory) or running away as fast as it can possibly slither…it will choose running away every time. If the snake however, feels cornered, or for whatever reason unable to hide, it will strike out at you, more as a warning to leave it alone than to actually do any damage.

Non-venomous snakes are usually very safe to handle, especially pet snakes or snakes that are used to being handled. Even most species of wild snakes that are non-venomous are perfectly able to be handled without fear of bites (the exception being water snakes and other naturally aggressive species). If you do try to handle a snake, be sure to move slowly, and edge your hand under the belly of the snake near the tail area. If you move suddenly, or from the top, it may mistake you for a predator. Once you have actually lifted the snake and are holding it, do not hold it by the tail, rather support it’s body loosely with your hands (keep a loose but firm grip, if you squeeze too hard it will likely injure the snake), and let the snake explore it’s way around your hands and arms. If the snake seems agitated, or goes into a strike position, it is best to slowly, but gently put the snake back.

You will find that snakes are not slimy, nor nasty in any way. However if they get frightened, they may defecate on you as a way of showing fear. If this happens, be sure to wash the area thoroughly with soap and hot water, as snakes do carry salmonella bacteria in their feces. You must also remember that snakes, while being beautiful and interesting to watch, simply aren’t the brightest creatures in the world, and have about the same thinking power as your average goldfish. Remember when you are holding a snake that it likely sees you as a very odd tree, and does not recognize you as a human being. Snakes react by instinct rather than thought, and as long as you keep this in mind, being around snakes is very easy to do as well as being interesting.

So how do you tell venomous and non-venomous snakes apart? There are several ways to tell, although some species of non-venomous snakes have adapted to be able to look like venomous snakes when they are afraid. If you are ever even slightly in doubt, leave the snake alone! As a general rule, venomous snakes have diamond or triangle shaped heads, instead of rounded heads that most non-venomous snakes have. Also, their eyes are elliptical like a cat’s eye instead of being round as well. Pit vipers have a telltale pit between the eye and the mouth. The pit, a heat-sensing organ, makes it possible for the snake to accurately strike a warm-blooded victim, even if the snake cannot see the victim. Of course rattlesnakes usually rattle, but this is not always the case. Some species of rattlesnakes have evolved without a rattle!

So now that you know more about snake behaviors and facts, I hope you will give snakes a chance. Not only are they fascinating to watch, but they serve a vital function in our ecosystem.

Stephanie Davies is a 27 year old Missourian with a loving husband and an 8 year old son. She currently owns her own business, Mystickal Incense & More, and sells handmade candles, incense, bath & body products and more at www.mystickalincense.com

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Fish Aquariums 101: What You Need To Know

2006-07-24T09:41:00.000-04:00

By: David Sanders

A fish aquarium is designed to offer domesticated marine life with a contained environment that mimics that of their natural habitat. Having first become popular in the 1950s, fish keeping is now widely enjoyed by many as a fun hobby and as a beautiful addition to the home. When maintained properly, fish aquariums can add a decorative touch to any room.

The most effective fish aquariums are those that feature the tank itself, along with lighting, a filter and heating unit. Commonly available in various sizes to accommodate space and different types of marine life, fish aquariums vary in price according to both the size and features of the unit. Everything from the small square aquarium to a large fish tank is up for grabs if you know where to find them. Typical fish aquariums can be found in most retail stores, but larger fish tanks often require a visit to the local pet store or some bargain shopping on the internet.

Fish aquariums are very important to housing domesticated marine life in the home. Small fish bowls, which are widely available, are inexpensive but do little to recreate the natural habitat that a fish would normally have. In order to live a long and happy life, fish need circulating water and movement as they have in the wild. When in captivity, which is the case when you have a fish as a pet, they need to have filtered and regularly cleaned water. While lighting is perhaps not as important, it does provide a sense of night and day and natural light for your pet.

When using fish aquariums to house your marine life, it is important that you regularly test the water using a test kit. In addition to changing the water regularly, it is best to confirm that the water you are using is safe. Regular tap water, for instance, may feature contamination that could prove harmful to fish. The reason is because of the chemicals and purifiers that are often used to treat the water. Instead, using distilled water may be the better option to ensure that it is free of chemicals or any other harmful agents. When changing the water in fish aquariums, you should remove up to 20% of the current water and replace it with the new.

When shopping for fish aquariums, it’s a good idea to check over the unit before you purchase it for cracks or other defects. If you are shopping online, be sure to ask about shipping insurance in case your aquarium is damaged while in route to your home.

About the Author:The author is a regular contributor to Aquariums Advice where more information about home aquariums, fresh and salt water is available.Read more articles by: David Sanders

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Protecting Cats From Cancer

2006-07-22T11:35:00.000-04:00

By Steve Hill

Cancer does not just affect human beings, cats can also be prone to the ill affects of this deadly disease. I have a cat who is called Pip and in this article I will be writing about my families experience in protecting her from cancer, which the vet has informed us, has ultimately saved and prolonged her life.

Pip is a beautiful and loving cat and is very much part of our family. She is treated like our third child and has what we hope to be a very happy and comfortable life.

I have been surrounded my animals for most of my life as my parents run an animal sanctuary in the Birmingham area of England. I have learnt quite a lot about these different animals and have a particular love of cats and dogs.

Pip herself is ninety-five percent white in colour, the other five percent is black. I am aware that cats which are mainly white are basically at a higher risk of catching a type of skin cancer than other cats. In the summer Pip would always love to sunbathe, basking in the sun. I would ensure that I put sun cream on her, mainly around her ears and tried to encourage to sleep more in the shaded areas of our garden. Pip is however quite stubborn and insisted on resting out of the shade.

Over the years I would check Pip out at regular intervals and one day noticed that she had some little black spots in and around her ears. These spots had not been there the last time I had checked her over and therefore I decided to take her to the vets. I felt confident that everything would be fine but just wanted to make sure.

The vet examined Pip and looked quite worried. He told us that Pip had a form of pre-cancer and that the only way that she would survive, in his opinion, would be to have her ears amputated.

This was very sad but we realised that in a way we had no choice. This all happened four years ago and Pip is still going strong today, unaware of how close she was to losing her life. The vet has stated that if I had not checked her out and brought her in to be examined that the cancer would have spread and that Pip would have only lived for around three to six months.

My advice for anyone who has a cat as a pet, especially if they are white in colour, is to check the cat every week or so and if you spot anything out of the ordinary, to take them to the vets.
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Horse Breeds - Types of Warmbloods

2006-07-21T09:48:00.000-04:00

By Nanette Hughston

Warmbloods are amazing animals. They are some of the most beautiful horses in the world, with a versatility that is unbelievable. Warmbloods, unlike what many people think, are a true breed. All of the studbooks are closed. What this means is only a horse of that breed can be registered in that studbook. The only exception is individuals of other breeding that are deemed to be able to improve the bloodline of the current breed. This is shown through performance records and the success of offspring in competition. The recent opening of the Trakhener studbook is due to a loss in type of modern Trakheners. There are various types of Warmbloods:

The Hanoverian

The Hanoverian’s originate from Germany. There primary use is for dressage and show jumping. These horses are mildly temperamental, with more of a calmness in nature than many horse breeds. The most common coloring in the Hanoverian are Chestnut, Bay and Grey.

The Hanoverian Horse is a well built, well put together horse with much success in the disciplines of dressage and show jumping. This breed tends to be very versatile.

The Holsteiner

The Holsteiner originates from Germany, usually reaching 16 to 17 hands. These horses are mildly temperamental and are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. They tend to usually be bay in color, but mostly any solid coloring. Most Hosteiners have a defined canter that tends to be very expressive, but lacks an impressiveness at the trot. They are typically well known as excellent jumpers but have made their imprint on the dressage community.

Dutch Warmblood

The Dutch Warmblood’s originate from Holland and are very easy going, typically calm in nature. These good tempered horses are built well running around 16 to 17 hands. They are known to excel at whatever discipline they are trained by.

Friesian

The Friesians originate from Holland and Germany with the studbook now kept in Germany, the FPZ. They are mildly temperamental growing to a huge size of 17 hands. They are primarily used for Dressage and reining but are sometimes seen on the show jumping circuit. These horses are also used for trick training, being widely versatile and very easily trainable. There are distinct characteristics of the Friesians. Baroque, which is mainly upright, with higher action and more feathering with a heavier mane and tail. Traditional, which is heavier and more drafty usually used for driving, and Sport Horse, which is used for all types of riding and driving. These horses are amazing. Very versatile with a very calm temperament for such an enormous horse.

Swedish Warmblood

The Swedish Warmbloods originate from Sweden, obviously. They will grow to be 16 to 17 hands. The are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. There coloring is all solid, predominantly Chestnut. The Swedish Warmbloods are one of the youngest warmblood breeds , so true “type” is not quite defined. Mainly having solid movements, with the conformation and their temperament being highly variable.

Trakhener

The Trakheners originate from Poland and East Prissuia. They tend to be a little more temperamental than a lot of other warmbloods. They are used for dressage, jumping and eventing. Coloring is mainly solid with defined characteristics of nice movements with good push from behind. They tend to be a bit stubborn and even difficult at times. Although there are some very lovely Trakheners. This breed possess a strong competitive drive owing perhaps to the large amount of Thoroughbred blood most carry. This is the only studbook still “open” in an attempt to further refine and define the Trakhener breed.

Oldenburg

The Oldenburgs originate from Germany. They grown to the large size of 16 to 17 hands. These horses are very calm and loveable. There coloring is solid but any color. They are primarily used for dressage and jumping. They were the first studbook with an American Division. Interestingly enough, all American Warmbloods approved by the ISR are registered as Oldenburgs, regardless of their actual parentage.

Andalusians

The Andalusians originate from Spain. They are smaller in height, ranging from 14.3 to 16 hands. They are used for dressage, bullfighting, parades and trick training. They come in solid colors, including mulberry. Bay and grey are the most common. Black and Dun are the least common. Andalusians are classically styled Baroque horses. They have thick manes and tails and tend to have high , lofty actions for their size. The Spanish Olympic Team was comprised entirely of Andalusians for the 2000 Games.

Horses are an amazing animal, no matter what the breed or bloodlines. They love their owners and one forms an attachment to their horse like no other. I couldn’t imagine my life without my horse.
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Nanette Hughston is a freelance writer from the southern United States Region. She has a bachelor’s degree in finance. She rides dressage with Grand Prix Level Trainer, Tracy Masterson at Highlife Farms, Orlando, FL. For more information and articles please see her website at http://www.dressageamerica.com and to visit her training site, please visit http://www.highlifefarms.com for dressage and hunter/ jumper information. Permission for reprint is granted with full bio remaining intact.

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Glucosamine For Dog Arthritis: Is It Safe?

2006-07-20T09:36:00.000-04:00

By Barbara Allan

In 1999, glucosamine was the top-selling dietary supplement in the United States, with annual sales of US $288 million. It has become an immensely popular dietary supplement around the world.

It has proven itself again and again though its potential for repairing damaged joints and slowing the progression of arthritis.

Since glucosamine works so well for human arthritis, it is natural to ask: “What about dog arthritis?” Is it safe? Is it effective?

The answer: Yes, it appears to be both safe and effective.

The main safety concern comes from animal studies in which large amounts of glucosamine were given to rats and other animals intravenously, for short periods of time. Under these extreme and usual conditions, glucosamine tended to decrease insulin levels and/or induce insulin resistance. When researchers tested humans with large amounts of intravenous glucosamine, the same thing happened. Hence a concern arose that glucosamine could cause diabetes or make diabetes worse.

Normal therapeutic doses of glucosamine given orally have never been shown to have an adverse effect on insulin levels, insulin resistance or blood sugar levels. Even in diabetic rats and type 2 diabetic humans, normal therapeutic doses of glucosamine taken orally have been shown to have no significant effect on insulin, insulin resistance or blood sugar levels.

Cosequin is the brand name of a glucosamine and chondroitin formulation made to treat dog arthritis, cat arthritis and horse arthritis. It is taken orally and appears to have an excellent safety record.

Cosequin has been seen to have an excellent safety profile. In safety studies, Cosequin given at twice label recommended levels for 30 days in healthy dogs had no adverse effects on blood sugar levels. No clinically significant effects were seen on any biochemical parameter in these studies.

Although no change in blood sugar control would be expected for a diabetic dog, as with the addition of anything new to a diabetic’s regimen, it is advisable to monitor closely.
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About the Author: Barbara Allan is publisher of the website ArthritisArticles.org where expert authors provide info on arthritis treatment and more. Click here for more information on glucosa

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Aquarium Disease Prevention; Basic Principles to a Healthy Aquarium

2006-07-18T09:51:00.000-04:00

By Carl Strohmeyer

I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge than my personal aquariums as many of customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. That is why prevention is the best remedy.

[1] Cleanliness; regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to remove organic debris before it can fully go through the Nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering your ph. You also want to dechlorinate the water so as to not stress out the fish or environment. There are many good products for this: Novaqua, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.

[2] Good filtration. I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never totally throw out all media, rather I rinse part of the filter media in used aquarium water so as to preserve beneficial (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal).

[3] Use ultra violet sterilization. UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity.

[4] Do not overfeed! Use quality, aquatic based foods, not foods high in cereal, beef proteins and fats, and soy proteins. Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20, Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz.

[5] Watch water chemistry, such PH, ammonia (0), nitrites (0), nitrates (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or higher), ECT. Note that ammonia is more toxic at a higher ph!

[6] When you do treat for disease, do not over medicate or under medicate, then change water. Medicated wonder shells work well for ich and are buffered, which makes one of the active ingredients; malachite green, safer (malachite green is more toxic at lower ph). There are many other excellent treatments such as Pimafix (a great Natural remedy for fungus and flexibacter.

[7] When you purchase fish; First make sure all the fish in the aquarium are healthy (if the fish store has a centralized system [which I do not recommend], check ALL the aquariums). Second, float your fish in the bag for 30-60 minutes for temperature and osmotic stabilization, then open the bag and SLOWLY add your aquarium water to the bag. Third, dispose of the water in the bag to avoid contamination. Fourth, add a shock preventative like Novaqua, ECT.
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By Carl Strohmeyer

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The Top Seven Tarantula Species for Beginners

2006-07-17T09:35:00.000-04:00

By V. Berba Velasco

Tarantulas can make wonderful pets. They are exotic, fascinating creatures that require much less attention than a dog or a cat, or even a tank of fish. Many species are hardy enough to require minimal care, and they always make great topics of conversation. Nevertheless, novice pet keepers should be careful about deciding what kind of tarantula to get, as some species can be aggressive or inordinately delicate. Here are some recommendations on the best species for beginning tarantula keepers.

The Honduran curly hair tarantula (Grammastola albopilosum). Pet store employees typically recommend the Chilean rose hair tarantula, but I’m going to defy popular opinion here. In my judgment, the Honduran curly hair tarantula makes for a better pet, provided that one doesn’t mind some extra expense. Like most common pet species, these are gentle, incredibly docile creatures. Unlike the Chilean rose hair tarantula though, these have very hearty appetites. Admittedly, they tend to be more expensive than the rose hairs; however, spiderlings can typically be purchased for a pittance (often from $3 to $6 each), and due to their ravenous appetites, they grow rather quickly.

The Chilean rose hair tarantula (Grammastola rosea). This is the most common pet store variety. They are likewise gentle and easy to take care of; however, they have this annoying habit of fasting for months on end, which can be most aggravating. Still, they do make wonderful pets for beginners.

The Mexican red knee tarantula (Brachypelma smithi). This species, along with the Chilean rose hair, is commonly used in movies and on TV. It is likewise very docile, and much more colorful than most pet store varieties. In my experience though, its hairs tend to be a bit irritating to human skin. In addition, due to its popularity, it has become a restricted species; that is, harvesting them from the wild has been made illegal. As a result, they tend to be on the expensive side.

The Mexican blonde tarantula (Aphonopelma chalcodes). Another docile wonder. For a while, this species was not readily available for sale, but it has been making a comeback. Most pet stores still do not carry this variety, but it is often available via mail order.

The Chaco golden knee tarantula (Grammastola aureostriatum). Easily one of my favorites! These specimens are not as colorful as the red knee tarantula, but they can be distinguished by the gold-colored bands on their legs. They also have impressive legspans (up to eight inches or more!), but their frightening size is belied by their utterly sweet dispositions. However, because they are relatively new to hobbyists, they tend to cost more than other tarantulas.

The Brazilian black tarantula (Grammastola pulchra). These also tend to be on the large side. This is not a colorful species; however, their satiny black carapace gives them a sleek, elegant look. This variety is almost as large as Grammastola aureostriatum, with a legspan of 7 to 8 inches.

The Costa Rican zebra tarantula (Aphonopelma seemani). This one is a bit harder to take care of than the previously mentioned species, but it’s still a treasure. These tend to be a bit skittish though, and so handling them is not recommended. They do not typically bite, but they are prone to running away, and like most tarantulas, they can be easily injured in a fall.
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V. Berba Velasco Jr., Ph.D. is a senior electrical and software engineer at Cellular Technology Ltd, a biotech company that provides ELISPOT expertise, CEF peptides, serum-free media and cryopreserved peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMCs). CTL has offices in Ohio, Europe, China and Japan.
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Leaving Pets at Home? 16 Tips for Preparing for Pet Care While you Travel

2006-07-14T10:10:00.000-04:00

By Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

The height of summer travel is upon us and whether you’re heading for a trip to the beach or a wild and wonderful adventure down some rapids, chances are you’re not taking your pets. (Although, if you do want to take them, write me and I’ll send you a copy of my column from last September on tips and hints for traveling with your pet).

When you’re leaving your pets in the care of another there are basic “rules” you both should follow:

1. Reserve your time. You’ll note that many of your neighbors and colleagues travel the same time of year that you do. If you’re hoping your neighbor will watch your cat while you head out of town, confirm that he’ll be in town! Professional companies fill up quickly during busy seasons so you’re wise to reserve your spot for pet-care as soon as you reserve your airfare.

2. Be specific. It’s important that you and your pet-care provider are on the same page. When you say “One scoop of dry in the morning and the evening” make sure your sitter knows which scoop you’re talking about. It’s also a good idea to ensure that the person staying with your five cats “does” litter boxes, otherwise you’re bound to have a huge mess (and possibly strained relationship) when you get home. Other items to specify include: where to dispose of dirty litter, cage liners or doody-bags, how many and what kinds of treats can be distributed, how to use the electronic cat watering machine, the location and instructions for the can opener, which items your bird likes to get into but will do them harm (zippers come to mind), and most importantly what time each day you’d like your visits to occur.

3. Determine liability. No one wants to think about bad things happening, but sometimes they do. Determine now who is liable if your dog bites the neighbor’s child while on a romp in the yard? Or who will pay for the vet bill if your kitty hurts herself while you’re away? There are many different scenarios here, so think them through and discuss your options with your insurance agent before assuming you’re “covered.”

4. Let your sitter know if anyone else is expected in your home during your absence. If your housekeeper comes every Friday, let the sitter know. If you’ve hired an electrician to come in and rewire, again, let the sitter know. Also, ensure that you and your sitter are clear on liability if the electrician unwittingly lets the cat out the front door while he’s unloading his truck.

5. Do you want updates? Let your sitter know how and when you’d like to be updated on your pets’ activities and behavior during your absence. However, be sure your sitter has a number or a way to reach you no matter where you are, in case of an emergency.

6. Leave plenty of food, toys, litter and other supplies. Most folks keep their dry food in special containers – meaning if its running low, the sitter may not be able to find the original bag to determine what brand of food your pet ‘s been eating. It’s a little embarrassing to carry a piece of kibble into a pet supply shop and ask the clerk, “Do you know what kind of food this is?”

7. Provide the name and contact information of a neighbor who has a key to your home. Emergencies happen, and if your sitter is incapacitated for any reason, they’ll want the name of someone who can get to your pets. This is less likely to happen with larger pet-care companies who have a team of sitters who can provide back-up.

8. Keys. Before handing over the spare set to your sitter, test them (the keys, but let the sitter test the keys too.) Also, don’t leave your keys on your property in hidden places for your sitter. This is a huge liability should some criminal see them leaving the key in your hiding spot – what if some less than stellar person watches your sitter “hide” the key and decides to help himself to your possessions?

9. Re-confirm your plans. Make sure you call and confirm your reservation with your pet-sitter at least two days prior to your departure.

10. Agree on a fee. Make sure you and your sitter agree on a fee for the service provided before your departure, this way no one will have bad feelings or unrealistic expectations upon your return.

11. Block off areas of your home to prevent unwanted access. It’s okay to close bedroom doors, or put up baby gates to keep your pets from heading into “unprotected territory.” Because no matter how well trained your furry kids are when you’re home, they are going straight for the comfiest couch while you’re gone. To save angst and frustration, block off areas that are forbidden, and make sure your sitter is aware of the “house rules.”

12. Be honest about your pets’ personalities. The person caring for your pets must have a realistic understanding of your pets’ personality. If your dog is a big barker, make sure you note that, same thing if your cat doesn’t like to be petted. Set your sitter up to succeed and you’ll be pleased with the results.

13. Close off “doggy doors”. While you may be happy to have your pets roam in and out throughout the day while you’re home, your pets’ safety is in jeopardy if you leave that doggy door accessible while you’re gone. Your dog or cat is used to your routine and knows what to expect when he comes in and out. He’s likely worked out a routine around yours. However, when you’re gone, his routine is thrown for the loop. He can become bored and is more likely to pick fights through the fence, or to dig out to follow a scent, a person or an intriguing sight. Both you and your pet sitter want your pets to be at home and healthy when you return from your trip, so keep that doggy door locked and help achieve that goal.

14. Make it easy to access your home. We’ve already discussed keys, but make sure the outdoor lighting works so your sitter can enter your home safely at night and ensure that the walkways and entry ways are clear of debris and clutter.

15. Write down the extras. If you expect that your sitter will bring in the mail and paper and take out the trash, say so. Your sitter is concerned with the health and well-being of your pets and may not think to water your plants unless you ask. Make sure you specify what extra tasks you’d like your sitter to complete and then write them down so you are both in agreement.

16. Call when you get home. Your sitter is concerned about the welfare of your pets and most will continue to come and visit even after your scheduled return home, unless you call and let them know you’ve returned safely.

Following these sixteen steps will ensure that both you and your pet have a relaxing vacation!

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of peggiespets.com and the founder of petcareuniversity.com. She's also the "Pets in the City" Columnist for the Del Ray Sun and has been a guest expert on "This Week in Small Business" on Chamber of Commerce Radio. Her company has been recognized as "Best of the Best" in the DC metro region by The Washingtonian.

To get all the tips and hints you want to keep up with your pets, subscribe to The Care of Pets e-zine at http://www.peggiespets.com today.

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Vetiquette

2006-07-14T10:09:00.000-04:00

By Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

This week my dog Kiera had to go to the vet. I’ll spare you the gory details, but I can assure you, there was no doubt in my mind that something was not right with my normally perfect girl.

While I was at the Vet I struck up a conversation with the team there about some of the things they wish people would remember when they bring their pets in for care. As we talked I realized that there’s some great information here – especially since we shared a few giggles and a few gasps about some pretty rude behavior. Voila! A column on “vetiquette.”

So, here are some things, courtesy of my hard-working front-desk friends at Del Ray Animal Hospital, to keep in mind to make sure you don’t find yourself on the wrong side of the “vetiquette” police.

1. You’re not the only one with a sick animal who is nervous at the office. Try to take into consideration the fact that every person in the waiting room has a sick animal – or at least one that’s not necessarily pleased to be there.

2. Remember people go to the vet for different reasons. Some may be getting over a devastating diagnosis while sitting quietly in the waiting room. Some may have just put their companion to rest after battling an illness. Even if you have the cutest puppy in the world, they may not really be in the mood to be reminded of happier times with their own pet.

3. Not everyone is a “dog person” or a “cat person.” Don’t assume that folks in the waiting room want to play with your pets or appreciate being slobbered, kissed, or purred on by your pride and joy.

4. Vet Clients are entitled to the same privacy as people-doctor clients. When you head to the doctor and you’re getting ready to pay, you don’t expect to have other patients leaning over the counter, looking at your receipt or listening to your diagnosis, do you? When you leave the examining room, realize that it will take a bit to process your receipt and if the front desk staff is busy with another client, respect their privacy and let them finish before you elbow your way up to the desk. Remember, financial stuff that isn’t yours isn’t your business.

5. Don’t offer treats to pets that don’t belong to you. This is a plain petiquette rule. No matter where you are, please don’t feed someone else’s dog or cat. Even if it is your pet’s favorite homemade liver treat. Remember, one of the reasons that pet may be at the vet’s office can be tummy trouble!

6. Keep your cat in the carrier. I thought this was a no-brainer, but I’ve been assured that there are lots of people who insist that “Pookie” just hates the carrier and is perfectly behaved in all situations. Generally this assurance is coming as the owner is proudly watching Pookie walk across the front desk.

7. You are as important as the next person. Meaning, you and your pets needs are of equal importance as those of every other client at the clinic. Speaking rudely, disregarding rules (like cats in the carriers), and pushing other clients’ paperwork out of your way do not make you a more important pet-owner. In fact, it may make some people utter, “there’s an attitude only a pet would love!”

The staff at every clinic goes out of their way to treat each and every pet with care, attention and tenderness. Sharing that attitude with your fellow vet clients can go a long way to keeping you out of ‘vetiquette’ jail!

(c) 2006 Peggie Arvidson-Dailey

Peggie Arvidson-Dailey is the owner of Peggie's Pet Services (one of the Region’s BEST pet-care companies, as rated by The Washingtonian Magazine.) She's also an engaging and lively speaker on topics related to the love affair between dogs and their humans. She's an advocate for happy and healthy homes for all species and is eager to assist in creating them.

If you want a monthly dose of tips and golden nuggets of information on living with and caring for your pet throughout his life, be sure to subscribe to "The Care of Pets" at http://www.peggiespets.com. Peggie is also a pet-care business advocate and the founder of the Pet Care Business Success University, which can be found at http://www.petcareuniversity.com.

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Green Tree Python or Chondro Python Care (Morelia viridis)

2006-07-13T10:00:00.000-04:00

By Chris M Jones

Green Tree Pythons are the dream of many reptile hobbyists. They are one of the most stunning species of snake known to the pet trade; a real gem of the rainforest. Green Tree Pythons are arboreal (tree dwelling) and nocturnal (active at night), making this species incredibly difficult to find in the wild and highly valuable.

As the name suggests, this species is predominantly green in colour, although some individuals may be blue or yellow with flecks of white, black and yellow. Babies are born yellow or red with white and black flecks. This species if native to New Guinea and it’s surrounding islands, reaching as far south as the Northern Tip of Australia in the Cape York Peninsula. As the reptile industry has progressed, keeping this snake has become easier and easier. The old tales regarding the extreme difficulties keeping this snake alive have been thrown out the window, and with enough time, effort and money spent, this species is easy and incredibly exciting to keep. In this care article I will explain exactly how this is possible.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Green Tree Python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 60cm Width x 60cm Height is ample. Many keepers opt for 60cm cubed vivarium or one which is vertically shaped rather than horizontal. Providing they have a minimum of 60cm cubed, I do not feel it is too important which shape is provided. Green Tree Pythons are fairly timid and need to feel secure at all times. Too large an enclosure may scare the snake, yet an enclosure too small will not allow good exercise nor will it be easy to obtain an appropriate temperature and humidity gradient. Juveniles should be housed in smaller enclosures; 30cm cubed is a good size. As they grow, so should their enclosure and if you feel your python will adapt and prefer a larger vivarium, I urge you to consider giving it that opportunity.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?

5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?

6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

Green Tree Pythons have become such a prized possession for reptile hobbyists that specialist brand vivarium designs have been built specifically for them. These are usually plastic or fiberglass, but melamine and glass are also common. Providing the following steps above are taken into consideration, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Green Tree Python is also capable of doing this. When positioning wood or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. Green Tree Pythons do not typically hide under or in objects like most snakes do; instead, they may choose to sit on a branch situated amongst foliage or with the sides of the enclosure around them. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. For Green Tree Pythons, I do not recommend a particular number of hides, although it is important to provide several ‘sitting’ spots around the vivarium.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Substrate

As Green Tree Pythons are arboreal, I do not feel much of an importance on how the snake should react to a substrate. Rather, how the substrate reacts with the enclosure is more important. Newspaper is cheap, easily disposable, soaks in moisture and will also dry out easily. This is for me the easiest and best substrate for Green Tree Pythons. Aspen, bark chips and other wood chips can also be used, but be sure that no mould is allowed to grow and that regular cleaning takes place.

Heating

Green Tree Pythons require a very slight thermal gradient within the vivarium, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 75-78ºF. The ambient air temperature should be around 84-86ºF. During the night, a slight decrease in temperature by a couple of degrees is acceptable but not necessary.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Green Tree Python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Green Tree Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

During night time hours, an infra-red bulb will make a good addition to a Green Tree Python’s enclosure. If a spot bulb is used, be sure the vivarium does not become too hot. It is recommended that spot bulbs are also encased in a mesh cage to prevent the snake from burning itself. Be sure to also ensure that if using a red bulb at night, that the appropriate temperature change is given to the heating device which is used during the day.

Humidity & Water

This is one of the most important parts to keeping this species, and one which many are confused about. When keeping any snake, I always bare in mind and research the native country to which that snake comes from, and then the habitat in which it decides to live. With this in mind, it is possible to recreate the snake’s environment and successfully enjoy keeping and perhaps breeding it.

Green Tree Pythons are a rainforest dwelling species native to the most Northern tip of Australia and New Guinea. These places have high humidity levels all year round, although it obviously fluctuates greatly from day to night and month to month. It is therefore not important to have exact humidity levels all the time. Rather; it is more important to fluctuate the humidity level and offer dry patches as well as high humidity patches.

Humidity levels vary depending on the temperature of the cage and the ventilation offered. Enclosures that keep high humidity levels all the time are more damaging to a Green Tree Python than enclosures which dry out too quick. It is not important to give a level of humidity, although I suggest that an optimum level of high humidity is reached every day or two, and then allowed to slowly dry out. Misting the cage and substrate is a perfect way of achieving this. Be sure that the cage itself is not too wet; humidity is not dependant on how wet your enclosure is, but how much water vapour is held in the air. If stagnant water is sitting at the bottom of your vivarium, this may cause more harm than good.

Many Green Tree Pythons are not observed drinking from a bowl; instead they are seen drinking from water droplets when misting the cage or from water dripping systems. Most individuals will happily drink from a bowl which is regularly changed, although I suggest with emaciated individuals not observed taking on water, that a drip system is put in place.

Feeding

Juvenile Green Tree Pythons are capable of feeding on pinky mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item no larger than the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling Green Tree Pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two or three weeks, and a larger rat or mouse should be offered. Green Tree Pythons have a very slow metabolism and obese individuals are regularly seen in captivity. Some individuals roam more than others and some are handled more than others, so feeding should depend on each snake and not the species as a whole. It is perfectly acceptable, particularly for male Green Tree Pythons to eat once every six weeks or so, providing of course they do not lose weight.

REPTILES - 1 YR

By Chris Jones

Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.

http://www.petclubuk.com

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The Sealyham Terrier: Otter Terrier

2006-07-12T11:17:00.000-04:00

By Michael Russell

The Sealyham Terrier has as its origin the region of Sealyham, in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is a cross of several different terriers and hounds, among them the Bull and the Dandie Dinmont and the Fox terriers and the Westy. Another important part of its genetic makeup is the Flandres Basset Hound. From the Basset the Sealyham acquired the short carriage and the heavy duty front legs capable of digging out burrows quickly and efficiently.

The Sealyham Terrier is a terrier which was custom designed by Captain John Tucker Edwardes, an Otter Hound enthusiast. Captain Edwardes desired to produce a dog which would be agile enough to rout out the Otters from between the rocks and crevices in which they hid, into his waiting pack of Otter hounds. Besides, he reasoned, the landowners of the Wales countryside needed a dog that could more easily get into the burrows of the animals which killed their chickens and destroyed their grain stores. His Sealyham Terrier fit the bill, being speedy enough to run with the hounds and small and agile enough to go to ground and less "scrappy" in nature so that he got along well with the pack. This terrier is by nature more of a pack dog than many terriers, this is perhaps due to the genetic addition of the Basset in the gene pool. Whatever the reason, this terrier, although "game" when it comes to the hunt, is more of a couch potato than other terrier types and is noted for being laid back.

The Sealyham is a small dog about 12 inches at the shoulder, with an appearance of stockiness to his body. The coat is the typical wire coat, being white with patches of badger on the head and ears. It is long and should be hand stripped, although pet owners are more likely to take it to the groomer and have it clipped. He is a dog whose form exemplifies his function. The body is deep chested and the back perfectly straight and while the front legs are short the hind legs have a well bent stifle. In layman's terms this type of angulation means that the dog is exceptionally agile and suited to the type of terrain that is rough and rocky. It also means that he has endurance and speed, both necessary features for a dog meant to run the otter to the ground. Temperamentally he is a persistent dog and not likely to give in, stubbornness is a trait that can be difficult when it comes to training but is an excellent quality for a dog that hunts.

In modern day, this terrier is not such a hunter and has adapted himself well to civilized apartment life. He is gentle and affectionate and also adaptable. He prefers the indoor life and makes a great city dog, a short walk will suffice for exercise and he is quite happy spending the rest of his time with the family. If he is brought up with other dogs in the household, he gets along well with them.

The Sealyham is very popular as a show dog, having been registered with both the American kennel club and the British Kennel club since 1910.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Dogs
Article Source: http://EzineArticles

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Arthritis in Pets

2006-07-11T10:50:00.000-04:00

By Michael Russell
DermCare Dietary Supplement Liquid for Dogs & Cats

Arthritis occurs when the joint surfaces which are supposed to glide over each other become rough as they rub together. The joint cartilage, which aids smooth movement of the joint, decreases it's lubrication and deteriorates, thus making movement more difficult and often painful. Pets are just as susceptible to arthritis as humans.

Have you noticed your pet moving at a slower pace? Does your dog have trouble jumping about and running around? Does it take several small jumps rather than a single leap for your cat to reach the counter? If your pet is having difficulty in performing these routine movements and has reduced mobility, chances are he may be suffering from arthritis.

Arthritis in pets, as in humans, can greatly affect your pet's health and well being. With the onset of this Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD), your playful and active pet can quickly turn listless and pain ridden. This disease usually affects larger breeds of dogs, like retrievers, but it can also occur in cats. Approximately 30% of family pets suffer from arthritis. The stiffness, pain and swelling in a pet with arthritis is the same as what most human being would experience.

The cause of arthritis in pets is often different from that in people. While arthritis commonly accompanies old age in humans, dog and cat arthritis is often caused by direct injury to a joint. More old dogs and cats have arthritis than young ones, not because they are old, but because degeneration of the bones worsens over time. It occurs in large dogs more often than in cats and small dogs since the animal's weight is primarily stressed on the joints. Also, the common causes of arthritis, such as hip and elbow dysplasia and other common bone problems, are usually diseases of large, fast-growing dogs. Arthritis, however, does occur in small dogs and cats as well. In the US, an estimate of 20% of cats suffer from arthritis.

Pets can't discuss their pains outright. So how do we know our pet is a victim of this joint disease? Some signs that you should be mindful of are the following: change of personality, being inactive at play, lagging behind on walks, reluctance to jump or climb stairs, difficulty of rising from a resting position, limping and yelping in pain when touched. If you notice some of these signs, have your veterinarian diagnose the condition of your pet with an X-ray.

If your pet is diagnosed with arthritis, don't panic! The good news is, there are plenty of remedies to alleviate the pain. An effective treatment duo to best relieve arthritis pain includes pain medication and weight loss. Common pain medications are analgesic and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. They revive the spirits of the pets by removing their pain, allowing pets to move easily and to exercise. Exercise, in turn, corrects the alignment of the joints which lets them experience less pain. A veterinarian's prescription is necessary to determine the exact dosage for your pet. Some veterinarians recommend Omega 3 fatty acids to protect the heart, kidney and liver.

Many veterinarians recommend using supplements that protect the cartilage. Such supplement is termed as chondroprotective. It not only nourishes the cartilage but it also help pets with arthritis experience less pain. The second part of the double treatment is weight loss. Pet owners should help control their pet's food intake. Studies show that when overweight pets lose weight, their pain significantly decreases.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Arthritis
Article Source: http://EzineArticles
Please note that these articles are supplied to our visitors as a courtesy. We are not responsible for their accuracy or content, nor are we responsible for or necessarily share the opinions and views of the authors.

Pet Rat Breeding: 10 Crucial Questions You Must Consider

2006-07-10T10:08:00.000-04:00

By Colin Patterson
Vitakraft Rat Menu

Breeding any animal is both an art and a science. You should not take it lightly. Here are ten major questions you should ask yourself before you start breeding your ratties:

1. Why do I want to get into breeding? If your goal is to improve upon the parent rats with each successive generation, then you're on the right track. However, pedigree alone is not enough to go by when deciding which rat to breed. Before breeding, be extra sure your rats are free of defects in their appearance and behavior.

2. Have I considered the costs involved? If you are willing to take all the necessary steps and precautions involved, you will be lucky to break even. Before you can sell even one baby, you will face expenses for:

Housing
Additional food
Proper bedding
Advertising
Vet Bills (you never know when an unexpected C-section will be necessary.)

3. Am I prepared to deal with a large litter? Let’s face it. As a first-time breeder it will be difficult to sell the babies -- even if you end up with a show quality animal. That could mean up to 15, or even more, extra mouths to feed for months at a time. So what is your backup plan?

4. Am I aware of the risks involved? It can be extremely satisfying to witness the miracle of birth and to see the doe’s maternal instincts kick in as she tends to her litter. However, there is always that chance that your female rat will give birth to deformed or stillborn babies or that she will need to undergo a caesarean section, particularly if she was bred too early in her life. Furthermore, not all does are cut out for motherhood. She may wind up neglecting her young, or even worse -- killing them.

5. Do I have the time to devote myself to this hobby? At best, breeders will dedicate a good amount of time with each baby: several minutes each day for the first two weeks of their lives. After that, handling time can double as they grow. Both the mother and the baby will need special care and attention, not to mention meticulous cleaning. Also, be sure to factor time for:

Filling out paperwork and pedigrees
Interviewing buyers
Taking care of sick or neglected babies

6. Will I take the time to educate others on proper rat care? When you create a life through breeding, you are responsible for that life. Otherwise, your babies could end up being put to sleep after facing starvation, illness, abuse or neglect. Being responsible means refusing to sell your rats to irresponsible or misinformed owners. This also means being willing to take your rat back in the event that it does not work out in its new home.

Breeding organizations such as the American Fancy Rat and Mouse Society set strict standards of excellence. These standards are the idea that breeders aim for when breeding their animals. While standards address the aspect of the animal’s appearance, excellent temperament and health are also qualities a breeder should strive for. Hence, breeding can be a tremendous challenge and responsibility.

This brings us to the last four questions, which, if you answer "yes" to any of them, are good reasons why not to breed...

7. Do you want to breed rats to make "nice pets"? This is an over-simplification of all that breeding entails. Furthermore, with all the unwanted rats that would make “nice pets” up for adoption and in pet stores the responsible thing to do would be to go and adopt or buy, not breed

People who buy from breeders are typically looking for a specific variety or pedigree. Many times, a litter of rats will naturally include sub-standard colors or markings that will do fine as pets. However, this should not be the goal.

8. Do you want to make money? As previously discussed, there are far more secure business ventures out there without having to risk the welfare of animals. At best, a responsible rat breeder looks at the hobby as a way to defray costs, not a way to fund their retirement.

9. Do you want more rats like the one you have? This, by itself, is not a good enough reason to breed your pet rats. There are simply too many risks involved. As dear as your rattie may be, you may discover that 15 little darlings that no one else wants can be a bit much for you to handle.

10. Do you want to make more of a specific color? While it may be true that breeders will find themselves specializing in a particular color or variety, this is really the result of their hard work and efforts. For a truly responsible breeder, this will never be the reason for what they do.

In conclusion, breeding rats takes a lot of time, effort, and planning. If, after researching and looking into it, you want to get serious about breeding, visit some ratteries. Volunteer for one, if possible. Interview different breeders and, if you can, establish a rapport with one. See if you can establish a mentorship relationship so that you will be well prepared and informed before embarking on your new hobby.

Colin Patterson is a long-time rat breeder and is recognized as one of the world's foremost experts on pet rats. He has written a guide called Pet Rats: How to Easily Train and Care For Your Ratties... To Have a Happy Life Together -- check it out by going to http://petratguide.com
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The Grand Bleu De Gascogne: King of Hounds

2006-07-07T10:03:00.000-04:00

By Michael Russell

This large and leggy hound is well known outside of France, its country of origin, even though there are few examples of the breed elsewhere except in the dog shows of Europe and Great Britain. This breed is often termed the "King of Hounds" because of its remarkable stature and great beauty. Furthermore this hound is noted for its tenacity on the hunt and its deep and melodious voice. The Grand Bleu is tall but proportionate in size and is marked with black patches on a mottled roan background with tan. The black patches on the head must always cover both ears and the sides of the head and the entire body is so mottled as to leave the impression of blue roan coloration.

There are four dogs which come from the region of Gascogne in France, all have the Gascogne designation in their name; they are believed to be among the purest of the hound dogs since they are directly descended from the original Phoenician hounds crossed with the Gallic scenting hounds. The Grand Bleu lays claim to being the direct descendant of the now extinct Chien Courant, a hound of legendary strength and size. The Grand Bleu was known to bring down wolves in the early days, now it is a hound that is used primarily for hunting deer and wild boar.

The Grand Bleu is nearly as tall as the larger Giant breeds such as the Newfoundland or the Great Pyr but does not carry nearly the weight. It can be 29-29 inches at the shoulder but the weight is that of the Labrador retriever or other large dogs weighing about 80 pounds. This gives him a lean appearance but this is deceiving for he is a well built dog and has considerable endurance for the hunt if he is conditioned. These hounds have a slow gait and a methodical approach to the hunt, which is a useful trait in the hot climate of southern France, where everything seems to move at a relaxed pace. This is a typical hound in manner and affability, being gentle and accepting of people and quite comfortable as a house dog or a kennel dog. His greatest joy is to go on the hunt however and since he is independent as most hounds are he needs to be in a fenced area if kept outside.

This is a hound that is quite strong physically. His natural playfulness as a puppy and his large size can make him a real nuisance to have in a household until he learns to be mannerly. Because of his large size he needs early training in obedience as do all large dogs. Generally the Bleu De Gascogne is little used as a hound today and he is more of a dog that is shown . He is registered by both the F.C.I. and the Kennel Club of Great Britain but is not recognized by the A.K.C. The Grand Bleu de Gascogne has become a breed that is admired as a home or farm companion of great gentleness and affection. Yet the dog has a voice that will intimidate the strangers on the property and consequently he makes a reliable watchdog also.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Dogs
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Acrylic Strengths Over Glass (Fish Tanks)

2006-07-06T10:18:00.000-04:00

Get great deals on animal magazines

By Derek Vanderpool

So Just what makes Acrylic Fish Tanks so special?

Acrylic aquariums are unique in that they afford a wide variety of shape options and the strength one would expect in a product designed to last for decades!

Acrylic aquariums are ten times stronger than glass and are not prone to shatter; while we do not suggest testing our theory I suppose you could take a hammer to that old glass aquarium in your garage and watch what happens!

Take note of the seam work on acrylic aquariums vs. glass fish tanks; no silicon “goop” holding the corners together. Acrylic seams are stronger, bonded, weld-like, far clearer and cleaner than glass. In fact a virtually invisible museum quality seam is available when purchasing an acrylic aquarium, however, make sure you deal with a quality manufacturer and not the guy spending weekends in his garage in his garage attempting to build a quality system without the proper tools or forming oven to get the work just right.

But doesn’t acrylic scratch easier than glass?

Sure it can scratch, but glass also can scratch and when it does what can you do to fix it? With acrylic a simple buff kit is all that is required to remove the scratch. Over the years these kits have evolved from really difficult to use to so simple you can even use them when the aquarium is full of water!

It would seem that an acrylic aquarium purchase is the most sensible purchase for a majority of aquarium keepers due to the strength, clarity, clearer seams, half the weight, variety of shapes, and classier look.

AQUARIUM FISH - 1 YR

Aquariumsource.com offers fine hand-crafted acrylic aquarium systems complete with furniture grade cabinetry shipped WORLDWIDE. To find out more about fine custom acrylic aquariums visit Aquariumsource, LLC.
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Directory of Fish Related Sites

2006-07-06T10:15:00.000-04:00

AQUARIUM FISH - 1 YR

1.Exotic Tropical Fish
2.FishGeeks.com
3.Associated Koi Clubs of America
4.The Cichlidroom Companion
5.Planet Catfish
6.AquaWeb Fish Resources
7.Guppies.com
8.Cichlid Research Home Page
9.AngelFish Breeding FAQ
10.Noah's Pets Aquaria Resources

Eclectus Parrot Overview

2006-07-05T09:57:00.000-04:00

By Michael Russell

Eclectus parrots are extremely beautiful birds. The males and females look so different that is used to be thought that they were entirely different species! They are wonderful birds that make great pets if you care for them properly.

This extraordinary bird originates from the South Pacific. There are six subspecies of the Eclectus available in the United States presently: Red-Sided, Grand, Solomon Island, Vosmaeri, McGillvary and Biaki. The Red-Sided, Vosmaeri and Grand subspecies are the most common.

The male Eclectus is translucent green with red under his wings and a yellow or orange beak. The Vosmaeri male also has a yellow band on his tail. The female Eclectus are usually red and mauve, but some are red with a blue violet belly and underwings. Also, the female has a black beak.

The minimum cage size for keeping one Eclectus parrot is three feet long by two feet wide by two feet tall. This is very small for this bird though. You should try to get a much larger cage. You will have to let the bird out of the cage a lot so they get the activity they need. They need to be let out at least an hour each day.

In the wild, the Eclectus eats mostly vegetables, fruits and legumes. They don't eat seeds, so don't get a diet with seeds. For the primary diet, get a pellet based one. They will also need to get fresh fruits and vegetables each day. This bird is deficient in many nutrients and also has a very long digestive tract. Because of this, it is imperative that they be fed a good diet. Try to limit the amount of fat they get so that they don't develop fatty tumors. This doesn't mean to take fat entirely out of the diet though, they still need some.

The Eclectus parrot has excellent talking capabilities. They love to mimic every sound they hear, even the dog, doors opening, microwaves and sneezing! You will be amazed at how much they sound like the real sound. Your bird's speaking ability will depend on how much time you spend with the bird, how much you talk to the bird and how much of a bond the bird has with you.

This bird is also very curious and loves to explore new things. They are extremely playful and really enjoy playing with people, other birds and toys. They are very smart birds and can even be potty trained. Another great thing about them is how tidy they are. They don't throw food everywhere like many other bird species do.

Unlike many other birds, the Eclectus doesn't produce feather dust. They have an oil gland instead of a dust gland. You won't see dust on their beaks. A healthy bird's beak will appear clean and shiny.

The female Eclectus is the dominant sex of this species. For this reason, many people notice that their female bird gets slightly aggressive when they reach puberty. Just make sure she has her space whenever she gets a mood swing. She is not being mean, it's just her hormones. Most females will calm down as they get older and as you spend more time with them.

The main thing to remember with the Eclectus parrot is that you will need to spend plenty of time with it. If you don't, they will do anything to get your attention, such as making extremely loud screaming noises. You have to be prepared for the amount of time this bird takes. Your bird could live to be fifty years old so you will have it for a very long time if you take good care of it.

BIRD TALK - 1 YR

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Birds
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Royal (Ball) Python Care (Python regius)

2006-07-01T11:33:00.000-04:00

By Chris M Jones

Royal pythons have become an extremely popular pet snake, particularly in the last decade. With the proper care, the reward of keeping these beautiful snakes is enormous, but I would like to stress that many individual specimens can be very fussy feeders. For that reason alone I believe this species is not an ideal beginners snake.

Royal Pythons are one of the most common snake species seen in Rescue Centres around the UK. The reason for this, is that most of the royal pythons bought each year are either wild caught or captive farmed individuals. Captive farming is when gravid or ‘pregnant’ females are captured and then kept in captivity until they lay their eggs. The females are then usually released and the eggs are incubated. The babies are then exported. Very rarely will they be fed until they reach their destination. Importers and wholesalers of reptiles have become better over the years, and will feed the babies several times before they are sold. Many however, are sold without ever having a meal. Being virtually from the wild, they have very strong basic instinct, and taking dead mice as prey is not something they will be used to. I hope the following care sheet will help guide you through the right steps in caring for your royal python.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Royal python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure, especially for royal pythons. The reason for this, is that they are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel it’s safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. If however, your royal python is behaving normally and feeds regularly; trying a larger enclosure can only be a good thing. Providing the snake does all this, than bigger is better.

Hatchling royal pythons should be placed into a smaller enclosure. It should be no longer than the length of the snake, and must have at least two hiding areas. When the snake is first purchased, it is a good idea to cover over the cage with something dark. This will keep the snake as stress free as possible. This can then be removed once the snake has eaten its first meal.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult royal python is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Royal pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 78-80ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 78-80º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a royal python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Royal Pythons are native to North Africa. The humidity is important for this species, but an overly high, constant humidity will cause problems. A 30-50% humidity should be offered, although perhaps raising it slightly when coming up to a slough will aid in shedding it’s skin properly. This can be achieved by slightly misting the enclosure.

Feeding

Hatchling Royal Pythons are capable of feeding on rat pups or small mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item the same size as the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling royal pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two weeks, and a larger rat should be offered.

Royal pythons can be incredibly fussy feeders. Many are wild caught or captive farmed, which is often the result of their tricky feeding habits. In my experience, the one trick that works most the time to get them feeding, is to heat up the food item and offer the food using the ‘tease’ feed method. Please refer to our ‘Problematic Snake Feeding Page’ for more detailed information on how to get your Royal Python feeding.

REPTILES - 1 YR

By Chris JonesDirector of Pet Club UK Ltd.http://www.petclubuk.com
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How To Keep Your Pet Rats Happy And Healthy As They Age

2006-06-30T10:58:00.000-04:00

By Colin Patterson

With pet rats, most aging symptoms are similar to those of humans. And as with people, it takes caring and patience to assist your dear rattie through her last stage of life.

The best preparation is to know what to expect. For example, old rats have the tendency to develop incontinence, urinating all over themselves. All you can really do is give them frequent baths. Otherwise, their fur will have a yellow tint and foul smell. Also, their bones and teeth can become sore; so be sure to lay down extra soft bedding and feed them soft, water-rich foods.

Putting fruits and veggies through a juicer is a great way to continue feeding them. Put the juice into their water bottle along with ice chips to keep it fresh longer. At that point, stop feeding them lab blocks.

When arranging the furniture, adapt the living environment to their abilities. Once rats get old, they are no longer able to run, climb and jump as they used to; nor are they able to recover from injuries as easily. Be sensitive to this and make their cage as safe as possible by lowering all their platforms and making their food and water available lower.

As rats age, it gets more difficult for their bodies to regulate their temperatures. That means they will be most prone to hypothermia in the winter and overheating in the summer. To keep them warm, in extremely cold weather place a heating pad or electric blanket below (not inside!) their cage. Ice cubes and a powerful fan (placed far away) can help cool an elderly rat during a heat wave.

There are other tell-tale signs of rat-aging. Once their appetites decrease, they’ll lose a lot of weight. Don’t be surprised if their bones begin to show. After awhile, they will become less interested in grooming themselves. As a result, their hair will be disheveled.

It is not uncommon to see a rat that is on the brink of death frantically get up and start running and hopping around in circles. On the other hand, elderly rats frequently suffer from hind leg paralysis and spend the rest of their lives falling or dragging their hind quarters around. Eventually, your rats will suddenly begin struggling to breathe, passing away within days or hours.

Dealing with the loss of your dear friend can be the most difficult part of being a pet rat owner. You gave all your love to your rat and took the best care of them that you possibly could... but your efforts were ultimately in vain. However, you did the best you could and gave your rattie the best possible life during his short time with you.

Colin Patterson is author of a pet rat book called 'Pet Rats: How to Easily Train and Care For Your Ratties... To Have a Happy Life Together' -- check it out by going to http://petratguide.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Colin_Patterson
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How to Groom a Bird

2006-06-28T11:05:00.000-04:00

By Grant Carroll

Just like dogs and cats, birds also require grooming to maintain optimum health and happiness. The basic essentials to bird grooming are wing clipping, nail clipping, beak filing, preening and bathing.

Wing clipping is one of the most important parts of bird grooming. Not only does it help prevent the bird from flying away or flying into something and hurting itself, it helps the taming process and builds a bond between bird and owner. Be sure, however, that an alternative form of exercise is available since they will no longer be able to fly easily. Big cages and play pens are great for a bird to walk and climb around. The best method for wing clipping is to clip the outer primaries of both wings below the level of the primary coverts. When the new feathers grow in after a few months, wait until they are completely mature before clipping again. New feathers contain a pulp of blood vessels and nerves that will cause profuse bleeding and pain for the bird if clipped.

Nail clipping is essential for both the bird’s and the owner’s comfort. The bird won’t enjoy walking around on long nails and it will be uncomfortable for the owners arm skin if the bird decides to perch there. Be sure not to wait too long before clipping so that the quick doesn’t get any longer. Don’t cut the quick or just as in dogs there will be a lot of pain and bleeding.

BIRD TALK - 1 YR

Grant Carroll proud father of four dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters
Visit Elizabeth Austin Wholesale for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies
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How To Avoid Disease In Your Aquarium

2006-06-27T09:38:00.000-04:00

By Lee Dobbins

There are many diseases that can affect your aquarium fish and once your tank is infected, there’s a good change that all your fish can get sick. Luckily, keeping a disease free tank is not that hard. Most disease is a result of poor water quality so not overcrowding your tank and keeping a regular maintenance schedule is a must.

Most aquarium disease can be avoided by making sure your aquarium water is healthy. If disease does break out, doing a water change and treating the water for the particular disease is the best way to nip it in the bud. If you don’t do these two things your tank is a disaster waiting to happen.

Neglecting the appropriate tank maintenance and partial water changes will allow toxins to build up in the water, basically polluting your fish’s environment. As the water becomes more toxic your fish become more “stressed”, the more stressed your fish becomes the easier it is for the micro organisms present in your aquarium water to infect your fish with various diseases.

I addition to insuring your aquarium has good water quality, you should also keep an eye on your fish each day so that you can be alerted to any signs of stress right away and take the appropriate action.

So how do you tell if your tropical fish are stressed?

Tropical fish don’t react the same way to stress as people do, but there are some tell tale signs you can be on the look out for. Some things to look for include; fish rubbing themselves against the gravel or aquarium décor, fish hiding in the corner or under plants or rocks all the time, fish bobbing around with their fins close to they body and any growths or white fuzzy spots are some of the things that indicate aquarium disease.

Of course, the first step in treating aquarium disease is preventing it. Here’s some steps to make sure your aquarium remains free of disease.

1. Don’t overcrowd your fish tank. Your tank can only support so many fish - the more fish you have the more waste they create and if the filtration cannot handle the waste you end up with toxins in the water that can accumulate to dangerous levels over time. The larger the tank, the more fish you can have.

2. Acclimate new fish to the tank properly. When you bring a new fish home form the pet store, it’s already been through quite a bit. Shipped from the breeders to the new store and put in a new tank, then transported into your tank all can be stressful to the fish. To acclimate your fish properly, make sure you float him in the bag in your aquarium for 10 minutes then open the back and introduce some of your aquarium water into the bag, let that sit for about 10 minutes and then let the fish out into your tank.

3. Make sure to have great water quality. Since poor water quality is the greatest case of fish disease and death you’ll want to be diligent about your tank maintenance and partial water changes. Also, make sure to test the PH and nitrite / nitrate levels and adjust the tank accordingly. This is quite easy and there are test kits made for testing as well as adjusting the water.

Keeping your aquarium disease free is not difficult and will help you enjoy beautiful healthy fish for years to come!

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.fish-tank-guide.com where you can learn more about aquarium maintenance and fish disease. Visit the Fish Tank Guide to learn more about diseases that strike tropical aquarium fish.
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Caring Guide For Hamster Babies

2006-06-26T10:02:00.000-04:00

By Jalte Aimal

One can’t just take his eyes off hamster pups, as these tiny cute little creatures will sure have your attention. Baby hamster are born without any fur and are closely attached to their mother. Though you may have the desire to hold them, bare in mind that there is nothing you can do within two weeks period after delivery.

REMEMBER NOT TO TOUCH THE BABIES!! Your action might harm the babies and change its scent thus confuses the mother. She will think that they are not hers, abandon them and worst she might even eat the babies (it did happened to my hamsters). Not to cause any stress to the mother, avoid cleaning up the cage within this period. It is advisable to place the babies at the bottom of the cage as none of them had opened their eyes yet.

After this two weeks ‘vital’ period, you can hold them but only for a brief period as not to disturb or stress the mom or babies. You can also clean up the cage and place fresh beddings in most of it. Remove just the soiled parts in the nest area and put a good portion of the old bedding in it. Put the babies back in the nest after it is cleaned up followed by the mother.

Once the babies eyes are opened (which should occur on the 11-12 days, but some take less/more), they should figure out how the bottle works. In order for them to reach it easily, put it lower and in an area where they frequently go. If they haven’t figured out how to use the bottle and you are worried about them not drinking enough, you can give them pieces of cucumbers to prevent dehydration. Do not put water in a bowl to prevent them from falling in and drown or catch a cold.

At three weeks, you can separate the babies if you observe any fighting among them but if they seem immature, less developed and not quite independent enough to leave mom just yet, let them stay together until they are four weeks old. When they reach five weeks old, independent and have a healthy development, they can be placed in new homes and play in new surroundings and environment.

About the Author: Jalte Aimal is the owner of site http://MyHammie.com. You may freely reprint this article as long as nothing is changed, and bio is included with all links intact. http://www.myhammie.com The most recent version of this article could be found at http://www.myhammie.com/baby_hamster.php
Source: www.isnare.com

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Raising A Healthy Bird.

2006-06-26T09:55:00.000-04:00

By Robert Michael

1. If you want your bird to live a long life it is important to feed it in a nutritionally sound way. Birds often die too young because they are malnourished or they pick up a disease because they were not being fed correctly.

2. Birds who are part of the parrot family should be fed a variety of foods. Seeds are used by most as the only part of the bird’s diet and this is a mistake. Seeds have too much fat, not enough protein and almost no vitamins. Seeds should not make up more than 50 percent of your bird’s diet.

3. Try healthy table foods like items that contain whole grains and pretzels, pasta and whole wheat bread. Many birds can be persuaded, given time and encouragement, to eat dairy and poultry products. Try serving your bird low-fat cheese, yogurt and chicken. Avoid any food that is high in fat and stay away from avocados, they are toxic to birds!

4. Beans and legumes as well as fruits and vegetables are good sources of nutrition for the pet bird. It may take quite awhile to get your fine-feathered friend to except these changes, (up to a year) but it will be the best thing for your bird.

5. When you get ready to make these changes do it slowly. Offer the fresh foods twice a day for about an hour at each feeding. Don’t leave the fresh food in the cage longer than that. It becomes unappealing and can develop bacteria.

6. Feeding your bird twice a day is a good idea. Your bird will become hungry between feedings and this practice produces a more active bird. With a healthy appetite the bird is more likely to try new foods. You will also be able to keep a closer watch on how much your bird is eating. (If your bird is sick,laying eggs, caring for young, or nesting they should always have food available.) When food consumption drops, a bird is usually not feeling well.

7. If your bird is having a hard time getting used to the new diet, try warming the food or cooking the vegetables. It will take a little time to discover what works for your bird. Offer seeds only at meal time and along with other foods until you see that your bird is eating enough to stay healthy. Birds often do better with new diets when they are fed outside the cage.

8. Water is the final key to your bird’s nutritional success. The water must be fresh and all bowls should be thoroughly cleaned each day with hot water and soap. Disinfect these bowls with bleach every week. Be sure all the bleach is totally rinsed away from the bowls. Adding a multivitamin to the bird’s water daily is a good idea until you know the bird is getting enough vitamins from the fruit and vegetables. Birds are delightful pets and feeding them properly allows them to enjoy a healthy lifestyle and this practice can extend their life expectancy.

About the Author: Robert Michael is a writer for Las Birds which is an excellent place to find birds links, resources and articles. For more information go to: http://www.lasbirds.com Source: www.isnare.com
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The Kuvasz

2006-06-24T11:42:00.000-04:00

By Michael Russell

The Hungarian Kuvasz has the Turkish word for "protector" as its name and its country of origin is most likely Tibet, yet this breed was used for many centuries in Hungary as a herding dog and flock protector. Herding dogs generally are used to herd cattle or sheep from one spot to another, while flock protectors are strictly used to guard the flocks and fend off predators. The Kuvasz is unusual in that it performs both of these functions admirably and was also used as a boar hunter.

Today the breed is used in both North and South America as a flock guardian. and sometimes more rarely as a family pet. It is a dog that can be quite formidable and is highly prized as a breed that will ward off coyotes and even cougars when it functions as a flock guard. Sometimes the breed is confused with the Great Pyrenees but there are considerable differences. The Great Pyrenees can have some biscuit coloring while the Kuvasz is always white. The Great Pyrenees has double dew claws on the rear feet. The Kuvasz never has dew claws on the rear, let alone double ones. The Great Pyr has a soft deep muzzle almost as deep as it is broad, while the Kuvasz has a longer narrower muzzle. Both dogs perform the function of a flock guardian quite well, but the Great Pyr seems to be a dog that is more able to accept integration into a household as a pet.

The Kuvasz is 28-30 inches tall and can weigh up to 115 pounds. The coat may be slightly wavy and is long and double. The coat is generally flat (does not "stand off" from the body) and is about two to four inches long all over with the exception of the muzzle and the front of the legs. The ears are dropped and slant forwards. The Kuvasz is a handsome dog and has a very strong instinct for protection.

The Kuvasz Club of America advises new owners that the Kuvasz often is "impervious" to pain. This is a typical trait of dogs which are bred for predator attack, especially in the neck and chest, which usually has thicker skin and coat in that area so teeth will not grip easily. The Kuvasz therefore will not pay attention to electric fences and needs to be kept in a tight enclosure. Furthermore this is not a breed that should be allowed to play off leash in dog parks.

As a family member the Kuvasz must be exposed as a young dog to any children that will be part of its family. As it grows it will begin to think of his human family as part of his flock and will be a great watchdog, however care must be taken to introduce this breed to obedience early on because it must learn that the owner is the dominant pack leader or it will take over the position and can be extremely loyal to the extent of being threatening to visitors. If properly trained and socialized, especially to children, the dog will accept the introduction of strangers. It is highly important to socialize any dog to children and strange situations while it is young, taking any dog to obedience classes and exposing it to crowds and urban environments will help the dog to accept new and different situations in any case, but for a Kuvasz that has such strong guardian instincts it is an absolute necessity to provide such early socialization. Kuvasz which are going to be used primarily as country dogs and flock guardians are trained up in a manner which will expose them to the the cattle or sheep which become their flock, often they are turned out with the flock and simply grow up with the animals an outdoors on the farm, where they will then function as nature intended them to.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Dogs
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The Importance Of Calcium, Magnesium, And Kh In Aquariums

2006-06-23T09:58:00.000-04:00

By Carl Strohmeyer

Many aquarists overlook the need for calcium, magnesium and the effect of a proper Kh (Carbonate hardness) in their freshwater aquarium. Kh is basically the buffering capacity of your aquarium, a Kh above 80 ppm helps prevent sudden drops in ph (You can convert dH [German hardness] ppm by multiplying your dH by 17.9). This is especially important with livebearers, goldfish, African cichlids, brackish and many other freshwater fish. The production of Nitrates (nitric acid) will slowly reduce your ph, but a proper Kh will keep a more stable ph.

Calcium carbonate in your aquarium will keep a more stable Kh, while magnesium is another important element that works with calcium. A proper amount of Calcium and Magnesium in your aquarium will affect the fish’ health positively. Besides helping to keep a stable Kh, magnesium and calcium have been shown to increase resistance to degenerate diseases by lowering the acidity in the body. This will help with prevention of ich, fungus, and general “wear and tear” in your fish.

A product called a “Wonder Shell” will help with your calcium, magnesium, and Kh of your aquarium. Wonder Shells also come in a medicated version for control of aquarium ich and fungus. Here are a few of their attributes:

* Helps keep aquarium clear

* Maintains stable ph

* Adds necessary minerals (electrolytes)

* Removes chlorine

* Great for Goldfish, livebearers, cichlids, and more

* Contains Calcium carbonate; sodium thiosulfate; major, minor, and trace elements including magnesium sulfate. Magnesium and calcium been proven to help fish (and humans) during stress and to help prevent disease due to acid buildup in the body.

By Carl Strohmeyer

Calcium, magnesium, and Kh in aquariums blog
American Aquarium Products- Wonder Shells
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Sponge Filters, An Often Overlooked Form Of Aquarium Filtration

2006-06-23T09:57:00.000-04:00

By Carl Strohmeyer

Sponge filtration is an often overlooked type of filtration for freshwater and even marine aquariums. Many persons look past their simplicity as ineffective, but therein lies their quality. I have used them for my aquarium maintenance for 27 plus years with excellent results. Here then is a list of their attributes:

[1] Simple to use, most run on very basic air pumps or power heads.

[2] Excellent biological filtration, they are very porous and can maintain very large bacterial colonies in proportion to the space they occupy.

[3] Mechanical filtration, although they are not the best mechanical filters, they still do a good job for their small size and make excellent supplementary filters.

[4] Very few “dead” areas trapping pockets of noxious bacteria, unlike under gravel filters and even wet/dry filters (which in my experience are over rated).

[5] Simple to clean, simply remove the sponge and squeeze or rinse in old aquarium water or dechlorinated tap water.

[6] Excellent compliment to “live rock” filtered reef aquariums.

[7] Probably the best choice of filtration for breeding tanks, hospital tanks, and even discus aquariums, due to the fact that they do not “suck” in baby or weak fish or attract noxious bacteria.

[8] For cichlid breeding they excel, as they are not easily disturbed by cichlids tendency to dig.

[9] Inexpensive

[10] Now available in larger sizes for aquariums over 60 gallons.

[11] There also are sponge filters that are used as a "pre-filter" for intakes of canister, wet/dry, power filters and more. They offer increased bio-filtration to your existing system, as well as protection from baby fish, plants, or anemones from being sucked into the intake of your existing filter.

By Carl Strohmeyer

Aquarium Filters
Sponge filter Blog
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Pasturing a Horse

2006-06-22T09:44:00.000-04:00

By Paul Hegarty

Pasturing a horse year round offers easy maintenance and is low-cost compared to stabling a horse. However this does not mean you can leave your horse in a field and forget about him. A horse that lives outdoors most of its days can turn a suitable field into an unsuitable eye-sore if left alone to graze. To maintain the quality of grazing and to offer your horse a suitable field you will need to maintain the field for your horse. Good field maintenance is important to your horse’s health.

In order to maintain the quality of grazing for your horse, field rotation is best. A horse requires a minimum of 1 acre (0.4 hectares) for grazing. Dividing the area into separate fields will enable you to rotate the grazing. Horses graze selectively, so a field left unmanaged will result in areas grazed right down and other areas that the horse has left untouched will become overgrown with weeds.

Requirements for a suitable field:

• Fences should have rounded corners to prevent injury
• Supply fresh drinking water
• Fence off any poisonous trees
• The grass should be weed free and of equal height
• The field should not be too steep
• The field should offer shelter and security
• The field needs to drain well, particularly at the water trough and gate
• Avoid low lying areas as these tend to get muddy in winter
• An access road must be accessible in all weather conditions
• Position the shed with safety in mind
• Remove droppings from the field weekly
• Pasture is free of trash and foreign objects
• Check fencing and gates often and do any repairs if you note anything that needs mending.

Proper field maintenance will prevent your horse from escaping and straying or injuring itself. Select your hardware with your horses health and care in mind, such as when selecting the type of fencing for your field. Barbed wire is fine for sheep or cattle, but your horse is more than likely to sustain an injury as horses have fine skin.

Your horse guide. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn more about Your Horse.
Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Fitness DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month’s e-book on "How To Spot A fraudulent Email". Grab your free copy today.
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Where to Find the Best Insurance Providers for Pet Health

2006-06-22T09:42:00.000-04:00

By Simon Oliver

Just like regular medical bills, your pet’s medical fees can be very expensive. For this reason, pet health insurance is helpful when taking care of your dogs. Often, our pets have been an important part in our family just like everyone else. The only thing is that we tend to forget our pets when it comes to deciding whether to get insurance or not. Some people are not even aware that pets have insurance programs and services. The good news is that these services are available if you are willing to take advantage of them.

We sometimes take our pet’s health for granted. If this is so, they can have severe illness or they can get into a serious accident. This is where you need to have a pet health insurance to take care of all the medical expenses that are incurred. If you don’t have enough money at the present time but have your pet insurance, you will no longer have to worry because it is taken care of. This may seem to be an unnecessary expenditure, but the bottom line is that you never know when your pet will become seriously ill or involved in an accident.

Almost all pet care insurance provides health cover that includes cuts, illnesses, accidents, abrasions and also dental expenses. You can get different pet insurance quotes so that you can choose from the best pet insurance services.

There are several insurance companies that offer pet insurance online. Some pet owners choose this as the best option to give their pets insurance. Getting insurance through online services is very easy and convenient. Via a simple Google search, you can find companies that provide pet insurance online. You won’t even have to leave the comforts of home.

When purchasing pet insurance online or requesting a quote, you will have to fill out a form that asks for standard information such as the breed of your pet, etc. The rest will be taken care of by the pet insurance providers. You should also know the different insurance covers and make sure that they really cover those kinds of expenses.

If you can’t locate desirable insurance companies online, you can find pet insurance in your town. Some would prefer consulting pet insurance companies personally so they can freely ask the questions that spring to mind. If some things are not clear, you can question an employee personally.

The best pet health care insurance companies that offer services online are petplan.co.uk which is for UK residents only. Others are petlifeplus.com, ptcareinsurance.com, petinsurance.com and healthy-pets.co.uk. Pet insurance depends on your area and location. So it would be advisable to do more research and investigations before you reach into a conclusion.

Simon Oliver has an interest Recreation & Hobbies related topics. To access more information on pet health information or on pet health care information, please click on the links.
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